Good Job!
2 Little Piggies
- Thread starter MudHooligan
- Start date
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Great job. Can you take a pic of the tight space between the back door and the step going up to the cargo area? I'd like to see how you did the metal work in there. Thanks!
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
Weldable paint.They sell a weld through primer. They also sell this stuff Steel- It in a spray can. Its stainless steel, foldable paint. Haven't tried it yet but a lot of Race teams use it. Now I'm tired
Youre doing well for a novice, youll be pro in no time!
- Thread starter
- #25
Thanks for the support!
I’m going to try some of that weld through primer.
I’m going to try some of that weld through primer.
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
You can get a free sample of Steel It. That's what I did
Great work rebuilding the floors. With regards to cleaning up welds, do yourself a favor and get a set of carbide burr bits. I used to use a ton flap discs, but I now use the carbide bits to cut most of the welds off, then finish with a grinding disc. This saves time too! Be forewarned, the carbide will chew through metal fast...and it doesn't know the difference between a weld and new fresh metal.
Here's the kit I bought. Carbide Burr kit - Amazon
Here's the kit I bought. Carbide Burr kit - Amazon
- Thread starter
- #29
I'll snap some pictures this week for you, but it may not be where you are interested. going from the rear seat passenger floor, there is one step up to the level the rear seat covers and then another step up to the cargo area from under the rear seat. I did not modify the area from under the seat to the cargo area since it was in good shape. From the rear seat floor up to the under rear seat deck area I tried to match the angled wall up to the under seat deck.
- Thread starter
- #30
Here’s that picture of under the rear seat. Slathered on seam sealer over the lap weld and shot some truck bed liner (rattle can) over the top. Needs another coat, next weekend...
- Thread starter
- #31
its been about 6 weeks so thats 3 weekends of work (with a toddler running around I get every other Saturday)
stripped the rest of the floors to bare metal, painted and put down some truck bed liner And seam sealer.
stripped the rest of the floors to bare metal, painted and put down some truck bed liner And seam sealer.
- Thread starter
- #32
I bought a header off of eBay and installed it. I found a s bend fitting off amazon for under $10 that was great fro the jog around the motor mounts and tranny. Walker 52358
Welded to the fitting that came with the header. I‘ve never been good with tuning carbs so I installed an O2 sensor from a fuel air ratio gauge (been very helpful for fuel air tuning the carb)
Welded to the fitting that came with the header. I‘ve never been good with tuning carbs so I installed an O2 sensor from a fuel air ratio gauge (been very helpful for fuel air tuning the carb)
- Thread starter
- #33
Then the biggest risk so far...the roof.
I wish i would have taken a picture of the 1” plus thick bondo across the roof that was caved in. It had been there for a few decades with water getting under and rotted out the roof. So i had to cut out a 30” wide panel across the width of the car and patch it. I did a lot of studying on this one first, i went very very slow (should have gone slower) but it came out good enough for a trail rig. Never be a show car...
I wish i would have taken a picture of the 1” plus thick bondo across the roof that was caved in. It had been there for a few decades with water getting under and rotted out the roof. So i had to cut out a 30” wide panel across the width of the car and patch it. I did a lot of studying on this one first, i went very very slow (should have gone slower) but it came out good enough for a trail rig. Never be a show car...
- Thread starter
- #34
I have been running a few experiments for stripping parts down to metal. I hope to have some results next week. I have caustic soda in one tub and Electrolysis in the other. Caustic soda is simply 3 tablespoons per gallon at room temp. Electrolysis is arm and hammer washing soda (not baking soda) with a 6 VDC battery charger (from kids cheap power wheels battery charger) and sheet metal scraps for the sacrificial anode.
Electrolysis removed rust in 4 hours, we will se on the paint...
Electrolysis removed rust in 4 hours, we will se on the paint...
- Thread starter
- #35
A couple other notes on the header. When i recieved it the welds where the individual header tubes meet the mounting plate to the engine, where not planar and thickness varied over .050” across the 6 cylinders. Since it was the weekend and I didn’t want to go to work and sneak on a mill, i ground to within .010” and then used my belt sander to finish. I used my micrometer to verify i was within .003” thickness variation across all 6 cylinders to make sure the exhaust gasket would seal well. Also i ordered the extra thickness gasket from SOR to add confidence to the install. To safely route the oil lines around the header i installed a 5” stainless steel tube in the most recessed (toward front of engine) fitting port and a 90 deg elbow in the other, then wrapped the fittings and lines in heat shield to protect from the header. Probable something everyone on this sight already knew, but i learned the difference between NPT and JIS pipe threads. So i had to chase the engine female threads a tad with a 1/8” NPT tap to get the fittings to start.
Next step is to use Evercoat Z-grip body filler to fill in spots on the roof weld seam and put some paint on.
Next step is to use Evercoat Z-grip body filler to fill in spots on the roof weld seam and put some paint on.
A lot of solid work going on. 
Real nice job on the floors and the cargo area. I like the beadliner look that you chose. The roof looks great too!
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
The roof repair is impressive!
I’m very interested in your roof repair. On my pig, the original owner put in a sunroof and the PO took it out and had the roof sandblasted. So, now there’s a hole there that is a bit wavy. I’m guessing I’ll have to do a patch very similar to yours. I’ve got a lot to do before getting there, but one of these days it’ll be time.
- Thread starter
- #40
Here are the basics. The hole i cut in the roof was 30” wide. On the driver side it went ~ 1/2 way around the edge curve leading to the drip edge. On the passenger side is stopped ~2” short of the radius. I went to a metal supplier in Denver and had them shear a 32” x 56” piece of 18 gauge steel. I started by rolling the radius edge (driver side) on my bead roller across the 32” edge. Then on both sides i rolled a lap joint edge 1” in board so my insert panel went under the original roof. Several fit checks and tweaks to get a good fit. I rolled 3x 1/8” thick 3” wide pieces of steel the were the width of the roof. I inserted on in the center of the 30” and other 2 were right under the weld lines to help with upward force and act as a heat sink. Welding was very slow. I would call it a series of connecting spot welds. I fit the drivers edge first since it was rolled in the roof edge radius and left the length fit over the passenger side to the end. Where i did not have the 1/8” steel heat sink , i bought a 1” cube rare earth magnet off amazon and used it to hold a thick layer of copper sheet on the under side as a heat sink. Heat is the biggest enemy and it is sneaky. I am new at welding sheet metal and i am amazed at what one lack of patience running a short bead can do to cause heat distortion.
