If the Hiace 1kz is good enough, which it should be, keep the original for spares; head, fuel pump etc. No need for a rebuild.
Last edited:
1KZ Nightmare (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter cicak
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Congrats on the new engine! Hopefully it will last longer than its predecessors.
- Joined
- Oct 15, 2005
- Threads
- 53
- Messages
- 1,205
- Location
- Malaysia, Kuala Lumpur
- Website
- www.geckoadventure.net
- Thread starter
- #43
Seriously looking at rebuilding it and keeping as a spare complete engine.
- Joined
- Oct 15, 2005
- Threads
- 53
- Messages
- 1,205
- Location
- Malaysia, Kuala Lumpur
- Website
- www.geckoadventure.net
- Thread starter
- #44
Wow all done
7 days is all it took to be repaired.
Hiace 1KZ fitted and picked it up tuesday night.
The following is a list of items you need to do to a JAPANESE sourced 1KZ engine to prevent the problems I have encountered:
1. EGR Blank off the EGR you do not need it it will soot up and also cause ECU to overfuel - done on mine by the mechanic
2. DUMP Pipe from turbo make it bigger hence reduce heat - planned asap
3. Headgasket - the japan models have a COLD climate headgasket change it to a HOT climate gasket whihc has more holes for coolant to flow through. - LAST to do as it will cost me $1000rm to change.
4. Relocate thermostat from bottom of radiator to the top with an aftermarket kit. Until then use a 71C thermostat.
5. ATF Separate cooler
6. Coolant - must run coolant - done the mechanic did this
7. The RADIATOR on the outlet may have the Auto cooler ELBOW blocking the outlet - this affects coolant flow. Put your finger into the radiator outlet and check for the internal pipe.
8. They say also add an electric fan to push air through
9. Viscious fan fill it with 10000 weight silicon fluid not 6000 which is very popular. Mine despite being done in November was leaking out again
10. Gauges add EGT and WATER TEMP gauge
11. Exhaust make it more free flowwing. My muffler despite being 3" is too restrictive still.
12. The mechanik also cut a circuit I need to investigate more and update also.
13. Optional is intercooler
I am slowly working my way through the list.
As for the new engine - it runs well quite responsive also a very different sound to the old engine.
As for the old engine it will be rebuilt after a HEAD and BLOCK test and kept as a spare or sold off to someone who suffered the same fate as me.
Poor DAFFY the awesome 1KZ HILUX SURF well its in hospital cracked HEAD and new pistons, rings and liners also needed. Needless to say the list from above is also ALL being done to it during the rebuild.
7 days is all it took to be repaired.
Hiace 1KZ fitted and picked it up tuesday night.
The following is a list of items you need to do to a JAPANESE sourced 1KZ engine to prevent the problems I have encountered:
1. EGR Blank off the EGR you do not need it it will soot up and also cause ECU to overfuel - done on mine by the mechanic
2. DUMP Pipe from turbo make it bigger hence reduce heat - planned asap
3. Headgasket - the japan models have a COLD climate headgasket change it to a HOT climate gasket whihc has more holes for coolant to flow through. - LAST to do as it will cost me $1000rm to change.
4. Relocate thermostat from bottom of radiator to the top with an aftermarket kit. Until then use a 71C thermostat.
5. ATF Separate cooler
6. Coolant - must run coolant - done the mechanic did this
7. The RADIATOR on the outlet may have the Auto cooler ELBOW blocking the outlet - this affects coolant flow. Put your finger into the radiator outlet and check for the internal pipe.
8. They say also add an electric fan to push air through
9. Viscious fan fill it with 10000 weight silicon fluid not 6000 which is very popular. Mine despite being done in November was leaking out again
10. Gauges add EGT and WATER TEMP gauge
11. Exhaust make it more free flowwing. My muffler despite being 3" is too restrictive still.
12. The mechanik also cut a circuit I need to investigate more and update also.
13. Optional is intercooler
I am slowly working my way through the list.
As for the new engine - it runs well quite responsive also a very different sound to the old engine.
As for the old engine it will be rebuilt after a HEAD and BLOCK test and kept as a spare or sold off to someone who suffered the same fate as me.
Poor DAFFY the awesome 1KZ HILUX SURF well its in hospital cracked HEAD and new pistons, rings and liners also needed. Needless to say the list from above is also ALL being done to it during the rebuild.
Last edited:
Item 3. Appreciate more details on head gasket. Part number.
Cicak Re these points:
I found a 5 hole gasket available from an Ozzie site. Write up stated was 1996 model gasket.
Wow all done
7 days is all it took to be repaired.
Hiace 1KZ fitted and picked it up tuesday night.
The following is a list of items you need to do to a JAPANESE sourced 1KZ engine to prevent the problems I have encountered:
1. EGR Blank off the EGR you do not need it it will soot up and also cause ECU to overfuel - done on mine by the mechanic
2. DUMP Pipe from turbo make it bigger hence reduce heat - planned asap
3. Headgasket - the japan models have a COLD climate headgasket change it to a HOT climate gasket whihc has more holes for coolant to flow through. - LAST to do as it will cost me $1000rm to change.
4. Relocate thermostat from bottom of radiator to the top with an aftermarket kit. Until then use a 71C thermostat.
5. ATF Separate cooler
6. Coolant - must run coolant - done the mechanic did this
7. The RADIATOR on the outlet may have the Auto cooler ELBOW blocking the outlet - this affects coolant flow. Put your finger into the radiator outlet and check for the internal pipe.
8. They say also add an electric fan to push air through
9. Viscious fan fill it with 10000 weight silicon fluid not 6000 which is very popular. Mine despite being done in November was leaking out again
10. Gauges add EGT and WATER TEMP gauge
11. Exhaust make it more free flowwing. My muffler despite being 3" is too restrictive still.
12. The mechanik also cut a circuit I need to investigate more and update also.
13. Optional is intercooler
I am slowly working my way through the list.
As for the new engine - it runs well quite responsive also a very different sound to the old engine.
As for the old engine it will be rebuilt after a HEAD and BLOCK test and kept as a spare or sold off to someone who suffered the same fate as me.
Poor DAFFY the awesome 1KZ HILUX SURF well its in hospital cracked HEAD and new pistons, rings and liners also needed. Needless to say the list from above is also ALL being done to it during the rebuild.
Nonsense, what you mechanic is do is take you for ride.
- Joined
- Oct 15, 2005
- Threads
- 53
- Messages
- 1,205
- Location
- Malaysia, Kuala Lumpur
- Website
- www.geckoadventure.net
- Thread starter
- #49
Hey NAVPRO this dude thinks your taking CRAP after all your hard work giving me this info. If you listen to this bloke your new 1KZ you do not need to do any of this either we are being taken for a ride hahaha.
Actually guys the new engine is running wonderfully I have done 1000+k in it and been checking the coolant and the oil level all fine and yes it is quick if I lay into the gas pedal from dead stop.
The list is slowly being worked on.
DAFFY the mighty 1KZ HILUX SURF is also back on its sneakers a total rebuild done and is apparently running very cool with its new thermostat and inline thermostat.
MR REDOCTOBER I do not believe you are a mechakic I think you are a FLAMER. im sure there is another forum you can find to go pass on your very informative one line advice posts to.
- Joined
- Oct 15, 2005
- Threads
- 53
- Messages
- 1,205
- Location
- Malaysia, Kuala Lumpur
- Website
- www.geckoadventure.net
- Thread starter
- #50
Navpro helped you out.
@cicak
BI suggest you ignore the russian troll. The bloke is only doing it to get a reaction from you. Ignore. don't respond, and thus take away his jollies. Give it a try.
All the info I posted was gleaned from several days of intensive reading of various forums. The conclusion I came to was that modifications people in hot countries like Australia had made would have some merit. Especially given comments from folks in other countries saying that they had tried these mods and posting positive or encouraging results.
Of course, opinions vary, so let the troll have his and we'll continue with ours.
Spoke with Daffy's driver who tells me that the original 88*C thermostat remains in the original location at the bottom of the radiator. What he has done is to open all the water holes in the head gasket (remember that 5 were closed). The holes are 10mm in diameter.
An aftermarket temperature gauge has been installed, with the temperature sensor fitted between the outlet side of the head and the radiator.
He has also blocked off the EGR system by fitting blanking plates on the exhaust and inlet manifolds.
The viscous fan coupling has apparently also been refilled with 10,000 weight silicone oil.
Currently the engine idle temperature is now 80*C and sits at 90*C when driving around town.
As the engine still needs to be run-in after the full rebuild he isn't going to be giving it much punishment for the next 1000km or so.
The 3" turbo dump pipe is being fabricated this week.
The normal average daytime air temperatures around KL are 30*C + and sitting in the traffic jams makes for a hot engine bay.
So far the results of these simple modifications are promising.
I'm looking forward to getting updates on how Daffy's engine performs once the dump pipe is fitted and engine run in enough to give it a big blast up the Genting Highlands road.
(For those readers not in Malaysia, this road is a perfect test track for engine overheat as it is the only very long and steep climb conveniently close by.)
@Gotoy
I hope there is no confusion regarding the holes in the headgasket.
I posted that there are 5 water holes which are normally closed, and included a link to a picture of the gasket with those holes clearly marked.
Coincidentally, Toyota also offers this headgasket in several thicknesses, and uses a series of very small holes located diagonally at the firewall end of the gasket to indicate thickness.
5 small holes apparently indicate the thickest gasket. 3 holes is apparently the standard gasket.
As for the Toyota part numbers, Google is your friend.
/navpro
BI suggest you ignore the russian troll. The bloke is only doing it to get a reaction from you. Ignore. don't respond, and thus take away his jollies. Give it a try.
All the info I posted was gleaned from several days of intensive reading of various forums. The conclusion I came to was that modifications people in hot countries like Australia had made would have some merit. Especially given comments from folks in other countries saying that they had tried these mods and posting positive or encouraging results.
Of course, opinions vary, so let the troll have his and we'll continue with ours.
Spoke with Daffy's driver who tells me that the original 88*C thermostat remains in the original location at the bottom of the radiator. What he has done is to open all the water holes in the head gasket (remember that 5 were closed). The holes are 10mm in diameter.
An aftermarket temperature gauge has been installed, with the temperature sensor fitted between the outlet side of the head and the radiator.
He has also blocked off the EGR system by fitting blanking plates on the exhaust and inlet manifolds.
The viscous fan coupling has apparently also been refilled with 10,000 weight silicone oil.
Currently the engine idle temperature is now 80*C and sits at 90*C when driving around town.
As the engine still needs to be run-in after the full rebuild he isn't going to be giving it much punishment for the next 1000km or so.
The 3" turbo dump pipe is being fabricated this week.
The normal average daytime air temperatures around KL are 30*C + and sitting in the traffic jams makes for a hot engine bay.
So far the results of these simple modifications are promising.
I'm looking forward to getting updates on how Daffy's engine performs once the dump pipe is fitted and engine run in enough to give it a big blast up the Genting Highlands road.
(For those readers not in Malaysia, this road is a perfect test track for engine overheat as it is the only very long and steep climb conveniently close by.)
@Gotoy
I hope there is no confusion regarding the holes in the headgasket.
I posted that there are 5 water holes which are normally closed, and included a link to a picture of the gasket with those holes clearly marked.
Coincidentally, Toyota also offers this headgasket in several thicknesses, and uses a series of very small holes located diagonally at the firewall end of the gasket to indicate thickness.
5 small holes apparently indicate the thickest gasket. 3 holes is apparently the standard gasket.
As for the Toyota part numbers, Google is your friend.
/navpro
Navpro,
Thanks for all the info.
I cannot open the links you posted.
So which is the recommended gasket for Malaysia? I am correct to say the 5 hole thicker gasket with the holes open?
Thanks for all the info.
I cannot open the links you posted.
So which is the recommended gasket for Malaysia? I am correct to say the 5 hole thicker gasket with the holes open?
@Gotoy
You're welcome. All the info I posted is freely available on the internet. One just needs to spend some time and sort the wheat from the chaff.
It's a shame you cannot open those links, as the one with the picture of the head gasket would
go a long way towards explaining what I tried to say regarding water holes and thickness indicator holes.
Apparently all the Toyota gaskets have the same number of water holes blanked off to prevent water flow.
Determining the correct gasket thickness is apparently done by measuring the piston protrusion above the block.
So the answer to your last question is no, the 5 thickness hole gasket is not necessarily the correct gasket for Malaysia.
I've also read on some forums that it might not be a good idea to open up all of the blanked off water holes as it might cause over-cooling issues. Then on other forums people say that it is possible to buy after market, ie not original Toyota, gaskets which do have these water holes open.
So what to do?
My suggestion is that we keep a close eye on how Daffy performs over the next few thousand Km.
If all the mods mentioned above achieve the desired result of keeping this little engine adequately cooled in our Malaysian conditions then no doubt there will be a few more of us making similar mods to our vehicles.
BTW, I had a factory inter-cooled 1kz-te from a Prado offered for my Landcruiser a few weeks ago. Hence the reason for all this research. I had paid the deposit and was awaiting delivery when my mechanic advised me not to got ahead with the purchase.
Apparently when he went to inspect the engine he found that the seller had already removed some components and replaced them with parts from a different 1kz-te engine. So he didn't trust the integrity of the engine. He also stated that the wiring loom had been butchered so badly that it would be a nightmare to reinstate it.
If you know of anyone with a 1kz-te for sale here then please let me know as I'm back in the market. Then I'll make the same mods and we'll have two (mine & Daffy) to monitor.
Sorry to hijack your thread Cicak
You're welcome. All the info I posted is freely available on the internet. One just needs to spend some time and sort the wheat from the chaff.
It's a shame you cannot open those links, as the one with the picture of the head gasket would
go a long way towards explaining what I tried to say regarding water holes and thickness indicator holes.
Apparently all the Toyota gaskets have the same number of water holes blanked off to prevent water flow.
Determining the correct gasket thickness is apparently done by measuring the piston protrusion above the block.
So the answer to your last question is no, the 5 thickness hole gasket is not necessarily the correct gasket for Malaysia.
I've also read on some forums that it might not be a good idea to open up all of the blanked off water holes as it might cause over-cooling issues. Then on other forums people say that it is possible to buy after market, ie not original Toyota, gaskets which do have these water holes open.
So what to do?
My suggestion is that we keep a close eye on how Daffy performs over the next few thousand Km.
If all the mods mentioned above achieve the desired result of keeping this little engine adequately cooled in our Malaysian conditions then no doubt there will be a few more of us making similar mods to our vehicles.
BTW, I had a factory inter-cooled 1kz-te from a Prado offered for my Landcruiser a few weeks ago. Hence the reason for all this research. I had paid the deposit and was awaiting delivery when my mechanic advised me not to got ahead with the purchase.
Apparently when he went to inspect the engine he found that the seller had already removed some components and replaced them with parts from a different 1kz-te engine. So he didn't trust the integrity of the engine. He also stated that the wiring loom had been butchered so badly that it would be a nightmare to reinstate it.
If you know of anyone with a 1kz-te for sale here then please let me know as I'm back in the market. Then I'll make the same mods and we'll have two (mine & Daffy) to monitor.
Sorry to hijack your thread Cicak
Finally managed to open the thread.
I'll have to agree with majority of those guys and disagree with modifying the head gasket. If it were tobe done why did toyota not do it?
So as you suggested....watch and wait with Daffy!
Just a quick update:
A previous poster made a comment that Cicak's mechanic was taking him for a ride.
I'd like to mention that my mechanic is actually a good friend and has my complete trust.
In the case of the Prado 1kz-te engine I mentioned yesterday he could have gone ahead without informing me of its dubious nature.
He could have made a significant amount of money out of the transaction, installation and future repairs.
I would have been none the wiser.
But he did not.
He was the one who advised me not to go ahead, even though I was very impatient to get a 1kz-te.
And I respect him for that.
So not all mechanics are bad, despite what that poster was implying.
Oh, and Duncan, just quietly, next time you read one of my posts, make sure you understand what I'm saying before you jump to conclusions.
@Gotoy.
Exactly. That's why I posted that link.
Readers can form their own opinion and make their own decision regarding making extra water holes in the head gasket.
And in the case of Daffy, and eventually my own landcruiser, we shall see.
I will start a new thread on the subject when a suitable engine is available. Hopefully that will be very soon.
/navpro
A previous poster made a comment that Cicak's mechanic was taking him for a ride.
I'd like to mention that my mechanic is actually a good friend and has my complete trust.
In the case of the Prado 1kz-te engine I mentioned yesterday he could have gone ahead without informing me of its dubious nature.
He could have made a significant amount of money out of the transaction, installation and future repairs.
I would have been none the wiser.
But he did not.
He was the one who advised me not to go ahead, even though I was very impatient to get a 1kz-te.
And I respect him for that.
So not all mechanics are bad, despite what that poster was implying.
Oh, and Duncan, just quietly, next time you read one of my posts, make sure you understand what I'm saying before you jump to conclusions.
@Gotoy.
Exactly. That's why I posted that link.
Readers can form their own opinion and make their own decision regarding making extra water holes in the head gasket.
And in the case of Daffy, and eventually my own landcruiser, we shall see.
I will start a new thread on the subject when a suitable engine is available. Hopefully that will be very soon.
/navpro
Will end up you big nightmare if carry out such modify to 1kz. Not learn from you mistakes you go down the path if spending more money on modify to have yet more problem again and yet more money.
You cannot admit to you mistake even 2 engine have had both neglect.
1kz is beautiful power engine, look after.
You cannot admit to you mistake even 2 engine have had both neglect.
1kz is beautiful power engine, look after.
@
If you know of anyone with a 1kz-te for sale here then please let me know as I'm back in the market. Then I'll make the same mods and we'll have two (mine & Daffy) to monitor.
Sorry to hijack your thread Cicak
What are you looking for? Hiace, surf or as I suspect lc?
Auto?
- Joined
- Oct 15, 2005
- Threads
- 53
- Messages
- 1,205
- Location
- Malaysia, Kuala Lumpur
- Website
- www.geckoadventure.net
- Thread starter
- #58
He looking for lc auto due to KHell traffic
@gotoy
Hoping for a Prado engine as it has the factory inter-cooler which is preferable to some of the jury rigged coolers I see here. Or an LC.
Knowing how rare they are I'd settle for a Surf or Hilux.
Cicak is right, as most of my driving is in wonderful KL traffic jams an Auto box is the sensible choice. Has added benefit as the Miss can drive it too if required.
Hoping for a Prado engine as it has the factory inter-cooler which is preferable to some of the jury rigged coolers I see here. Or an LC.
Knowing how rare they are I'd settle for a Surf or Hilux.
Cicak is right, as most of my driving is in wonderful KL traffic jams an Auto box is the sensible choice. Has added benefit as the Miss can drive it too if required.
Why not consider a 13BT auto? Then you will escape 1kz!
