If the Hiace 1kz is good enough, which it should be, keep the original for spares; head, fuel pump etc. No need for a rebuild.
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If the Hiace 1kz is good enough, which it should be, keep the original for spares; head, fuel pump etc. No need for a rebuild.
3. Headgasket - the japan models have a COLD climate headgasket change it to a HOT climate gasket whihc has more holes for coolant to flow through. - LAST to do as it will cost me $1000rm to change.There are apparently several different head gaskets available for the 1KZ-TE from Toyota. Original equipment.
Where they differ is in their thickness. Look at the end of the gasket that would be cylinder four, on the exhaust side.
There will be a number of small holes running diagonally at the very edge of the gasket.
The number of holes indicates the thickness of the gasket. The most common seems to be 3 holes, with 5 holes being the thickest.
Otherwise they are all identical in that they have the same number of coolant holes open. 3. The other 5 are blocked.
It has been suggested on several other forums that it could be wise to either open some of the closed coolant holes in order to increase the flow of coolant around the head.
Other forum posts also suggest that opening the closed holes on the exhaust side of the gasket would cause problems, given that Toyota designed the gasket to be as it is now.
An example read would be at this link http://www.toyotadiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?6314-Additional-holes-on-head-gasket-of-1kzte
The first picture illustrates the closed coolant holes and also the 5 small thickness indicator holes.
4. Relocate thermostat from bottom of radiator to the top with an aftermarket kit. Until then use a 71C thermostat.As I mentioned to you, for cold climate running the 88*C thermostat is probably fine. In our climate replacing it with a 71*C opening thermostat would be beneficial. Be sure to get the correct type of thermostat.
The 1KZ-TE uses a bypass thermostat. Info on that here: http://www.are.com.au/feat/techt/thermostat.htm
Specifically figures 1 & 2.
Also as mentioned, relocating the thermostat to the top of the radiator will involve you sorting out the situation with the bypass. Probably you can find information on this in the NZ forums.
@Gotoy, you can probably find the part numbers via Google.
5. ATF Separate cooler 8. They say also add an electric fan to push air throughAdding an additional ATF cooler is likely only going to be useful when there is air flowing over it, hence the addition of an electric fan because your offroad speeds are too slow to promote an adequate flow.
Daffy's engine was looking good last weekend, been machined, leveled, bores honed. Should be back on the road again very soon.
Wow all done
7 days is all it took to be repaired.
Hiace 1KZ fitted and picked it up tuesday night.
The following is a list of items you need to do to a JAPANESE sourced 1KZ engine to prevent the problems I have encountered:
1. EGR Blank off the EGR you do not need it it will soot up and also cause ECU to overfuel - done on mine by the mechanic
2. DUMP Pipe from turbo make it bigger hence reduce heat - planned asap
3. Headgasket - the japan models have a COLD climate headgasket change it to a HOT climate gasket whihc has more holes for coolant to flow through. - LAST to do as it will cost me $1000rm to change.
4. Relocate thermostat from bottom of radiator to the top with an aftermarket kit. Until then use a 71C thermostat.
5. ATF Separate cooler
6. Coolant - must run coolant - done the mechanic did this
7. The RADIATOR on the outlet may have the Auto cooler ELBOW blocking the outlet - this affects coolant flow. Put your finger into the radiator outlet and check for the internal pipe.
8. They say also add an electric fan to push air through
9. Viscious fan fill it with 10000 weight silicon fluid not 6000 which is very popular. Mine despite being done in November was leaking out again
10. Gauges add EGT and WATER TEMP gauge
11. Exhaust make it more free flowwing. My muffler despite being 3" is too restrictive still.
12. The mechanik also cut a circuit I need to investigate more and update also.
13. Optional is intercooler
I am slowly working my way through the list.
As for the new engine - it runs well quite responsive also a very different sound to the old engine.
As for the old engine it will be rebuilt after a HEAD and BLOCK test and kept as a spare or sold off to someone who suffered the same fate as me.
Poor DAFFY the awesome 1KZ HILUX SURF well its in hospital cracked HEAD and new pistons, rings and liners also needed. Needless to say the list from above is also ALL being done to it during the rebuild.
Nonsense, what you mechanic is do is take you for ride.
Item 3. Appreciate more details on head gasket. Part number.
Other forum posts also suggest that opening the closed holes on the exhaust side of the gasket would cause problems, given that Toyota designed the gasket to be as it is now.
An example read would be at this link http://www.toyotadiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?6314-Additional-holes-on-head-gasket-of-1kzte
The first picture illustrates the closed coolant holes and also the 5 small thickness indicator holes.
.
@
If you know of anyone with a 1kz-te for sale here then please let me know as I'm back in the market. Then I'll make the same mods and we'll have two (mine & Daffy) to monitor.
Sorry to hijack your thread Cicak