1KZ Nightmare

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Today the tow truck from the rawang hospital will arrive to take it to the hospital.

Using coolant but not overheating been doing it for a month now. City driving fine. 105k on the highway away it dissappears. 1 liter per 200k roughly.

Sigh I think new head gasket needed on the new engine double sigh . Its play ing hell with the volvo restore money.
 
Got blue back a while ago - RAdiator leak in the new radiator all fixed and no longer using coolant.

Changed the oil after 5000k and installed the wiring for the new rigidg industries LED (New being donated from the Volvo rebuild as its now got a 50" LED and the 20" well was just too small hahaha)

Sunday arvo I had finished welding up the inflateable kayak rack so I started making the backet to hold the LED. This one NO Bolts nothing once its in its IN to remove cut it off as people here are stealing LEDS especially RIGID INDUSTRIES ones

As I went to mount the surround bracket it started raining so that was the end of welding for the day (too many shocks previously to carry on). We used the light to assist us in cleaning up the kayak room instead.

This pic a few minutes before the rain set in while Kenny was still welding up the final KAYAK racks and I was waiting for the welder to weld the surround bracket in.

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Then the long 2 hour drive home in the pouring rain ensued.

Next is to tackle the excessive fuel consumption of 20l per 100k. Currently it is doing 3000rpm at 120k. Does not matter if using ECT power or normal power. Looks like diff ratios we are looking at using 8/39 or 1:4.8 more updates later.
 
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Sunday evening before it rained again we managed to finish the installation of the 20" LED light.

surround Frame all welded in and painted - kenny's job was to paint while I watched the paint dry.

The only way to remove the light is to cut the welds. Mainly due to low life people stealing the lights stamped rigidinstries here sigh.

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Fuel consumption issue is getting worse its really rough at idle why do I sense a IP failue coming.
 
or
it could be the gears letting loose in the timing ...

just messing with yah,
 
or
it could be the gears letting loose in the timing ...

just messing with yah,

No issue

The last two starts really rough takes about 15 seonds for the shaking to stop after start up and for it to run on 4 cyls.

I have a spare IP on the old engine so it may get swapped - I also wondering if I am losing fuel pressure or have a small leak I will check this morning by trying to prime the IP pump.

Else I might have blocked injectors I may have picked up the bottom of a dirty tank as we have had diesel shortages here and did manager to put 1 liter in the tank one night before the bowser ran out..

However I ned the Blue truck running nicely this weekend as I have to be supported (dropped off and picked up) while I paddle 150k solo this weekend.
 
gotta feel compassion for the Yanks, they got left behind back in the 70s when the world moved on to metric ...
 
well we have been fully metric since the 70s, sadly i still think in lbs and inches ... even though metric is so much easier to work with.
 
This thread continue to be used as a diary for 1KZ owners to show what happens with lotsa jungle use to a 1KZ powered LC II - grin

Got RED back last tuesday it arrived at work in the tow truck and I put Blue ( the 1KZ nightmare) on the tow truck to get new BRAKES and new trailing arm bushes and some brake pads it was not suitable to drive it any further.

THis morning (Saturday) we fixed the Blue 1KZ nightmare up after the Quiet Sg Mas mud trip last weekend.
1. New trailing arm bushes - polyurethene
2. New leading arm bushes and castor correction also
3. Straightned steering arm
4. Drained DIFFS (yes they had water in them) and refilled
5. CHanged SUMP (took me 2+ hours to change) as the 1KZ engine in BLUE was from a HIACE and the front PROP shaft had given it more than a FEW WHACKS almost through the sump the damage was quite bad. BE warned anyone who puts in a HIACE 1KZ change the sump or remove the front PROP shaft LOL.
6. Refilled and ready to rock again.
7. FLat battery on trying to start looks like something is draining the battery.
8. Started and drove home - Overheated a little on way home - MUD in the radiator?
9. Got home turned engine off lifted bonnet and could hear sizzling. Traced it to one of the batteries it was boiling away. Disconnected and removed it far away from BLUE in case it exploded. Need to get a new 120AMP battery in the morning.
10. New HArdened shaft and spare motor for the WARN 8274 ordered and a rebuild KIT and a BRAKE kit for holding it closed to fit :) - toying with fitting twin motors to the 8274 as I do not want to fit a GOD winch to it as customers drive it.
 
Hey fellow 1kz owners
I was wondering how the progress was going with the truck owned by "daffy" with the drilled coolant holes in the head gasket. question was all the holes drilled out on both sides of the gasket to 10mm, I was thinking of doing the same but one side half the size
I too have an awesome 1kz with mech pump, high flow turbo, w2a cooler, full 3inch, 20psi boost, lpg injection, 55mm alloy radiator, top thermostat 80deg, new kiwi head just fitted 20 000klm ago, - now either cracked again or leaking head gasket, so Id love to know if opening up those galleries can improve the cooling.
Im in western Australia and we get very hot here, so far big alloy rad with big 10 blade fan is doing well untill you want to go fast up hills....
 
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compare gaskets

I previously had a 2.8L 3L toyota engine with all these mods, went perfectly for 8 years in high state of tune untill conrod cracked and blew piston out side but never overheated like 1 kz does, not as much power cast iron head too but good little engine

this engine has many holes in head gasket for cooling
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/571/6l2q.jpg/

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1kz not so much why I say why????
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/28/3m6s.jpg/

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the 1kz head gasket has the holes in the back of the head and the front is blanked, and where it gets me is the heads normally crack around 3 and 4 cyl is where the most water is flowing or /not flowing cos the other ports are blanked, Ive never come across another engine/toyota engine head gasket that has blanked cooling galleries

Im next in line to drill out the holes, coat gasket with jointing paste and try it, as I have a complete spare engine also in shed
 
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Hey fellow 1kz owners
I was wondering how the progress was going with the truck owned by "daffy" with the drilled coolant holes in the head gasket. question was all the holes drilled out on both sides of the gasket to 10mm, I was thinking of doing the same but one side half the size
I too have an awesome 1kz with mech pump, high flow turbo, w2a cooler, full 3inch, 20psi boost, lpg injection, 55mm alloy radiator, top thermostat 80deg, new kiwi head just fitted 20 000klm ago, - now either cracked again or leaking head gasket, so Id love to know if opening up those galleries can improve the cooling.
Im in western Australia and we get very hot here, so far big alloy rad with big 10 blade fan is doing well untill you want to go fast up hills....

Rebuilt engine then again as head cracked.

Now running fine. Runs about 80 deg sround town
 
cicak are you saying the engine has been rebuilt twice since the headgasket sincehas it had the holes drilled out?, is it still running the modified head gasket still?, whats the temps like running under heavy loads in the jungle heat?:eek:
 
Well to say I hate 1kz's would be an understatement .

Yup blues engine blew yesterday 700 meters up genting highlands climb smoke and steam everywhere.

Terminal more details and pics when I stop crying.

So much for a nice midweek bbq in the jungle on a public holiday. Costs still being added up sigh.
 
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s*** man, cut your losses and stuff a PZ in there or even a gasser.

sorry, very sorry, to read this post.
 
s*** man, cut your losses and stuff a PZ in there or even a gasser.

sorry, very sorry, to read this post.

I have to agree with Wayne here.
 
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