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The issue is resale value re road tax the extra 600rm will put most people off limiting resale if it has 13B-T in it
An extra 600rm per year does not strike me as being a large sum to pay to avoid a major engine overhaul on a 1kz. If owner can afford the 1kz engine change using lc engine, then 600rm is also not too much extra.
As I understand the owner will be using the vehicle long term, resale value should not be an issue on an engine change.
I support your point many potential buyers of a vehicle with a 13bt would bark and turn away, due to the road tax.
Yup $1700rm ($500USD) or thereabouts is the max most 4x4 guys will pay for roadtax yearly and there is a physcological barrier on the extra $600m to register it. Plus mention 1KZ and they all want one in their vehicles as mst of them not heard of 13B-T. Until you you cruise past their overheating 1KZ engine vehicle uphill with no effort.
actually, Red should become great friends with Dougal as they both love those head cracking, tiresome computer controlled fuel pumps ...
the best way to keep a KZ from cracking heads is to ...
leave the truck in the garage, permanently
A manual fual pump is not to solve you problem but will make further problem. Manual fual pump cause unwanted fual toenter cylinder. This will cause heat and more damage to you engine.
So, this is you number 3 engine BANG BANG in just as many months!!
Red your a dick. go troll somewhere else
1978HJ45, This is reasonably close .. ..
Красная, вы пениса. Перейти тролль где-то в другом месте
Yesterday went out to the workshop where the Blue engine was swapped and picked up the rest of the engine.
After they tipped the engine over loading it into my trusty ISUZU pickup I had a tray full of oil covered in sand to soak it up. ****.
Then it was off to the Rawang hospital to see what we could do with it. The intention being to rebuild it
we left it in the back of the pickup and took the air brush to it..
1. No sign of cracked pistons as we were told. Since I do not have the compression test results made available to me I do not know which cylinder(s) is down.
2. We noticed no 4 sleeve is full of water damage and then realised it was sitting down when no 1 was flush with the block. Lots of pitting from the leaking head gasket leaking water into the chamber no 4 is the worst.
3. No play in no 4 so what is wrong have I slighly bent a conrod? the crank bearing shell gone cannot be no play nothing wrong it moves in sync with no 1 perfectly. That might explain the bump one morning starting it up just before we we realised it was really sick during the TV program shoot.
[URL="http://www.geckoadventure.net/2013/20130608_154530_Blue.jpg"][/URL]
We will now strip it down over the coming weeks to see what is wrong suspicion is bent conrod anyone else offer a possible reason for No 4 cylinder sitting down.
We do know the newly filled viscious fan was leaking fluid it was refilled when the head gasket was replaced 1000k ago.
It was leaking when I inspected the fan.
We are going to rebuild this engine without a ECU so manual fuel pump coming.