1HD-T Rebuild - Checklist (1 Viewer)

[gnarlynick2072]

Sorry for the late reply.

Not sure who John is using as a Machinist, but I imagine it's somewhere nearby to him (Edmonton area). @roscoFJ73 - I assume that the machinist will be looking over the entire block either way?

I'm trying to decide between a Grunter Extreme and a Badboy. Apparently there was contaminated oil in the turbo and oil pump, so I'm going to replace those items as well. I ordered a brand new crank from toyotapartsdirect.ca, $1650 shipped including tax.

I have not ordered a rebuilt kit yet, as I'm waiting to find out on piston size.

The IP and Injectors are going off to Okanagan Diesel Injection to get rebuilt.

John is checking the head this week and making sure it's solid.

I don't have the budget for a proper intercooler right now, but I'm looking into the Safari and CrossCountry I/C's.

Still need to order a new connecting rod and an oil pump - if anyone has part#'s handy that would be awesome!

Yikes sounds like a total pain in the ass!

If you would like, I am arranging Partsouq orders for some friends of mine in town if you are still looking for OEM parts for your rebuild. We usually do group buys to save on shipping and taxes/duty charges (basically eliminates flat rates). Hopefully this might help lighten the load on your pocket book. I'm in Calgary as well, shoot me a PM if you're interested.

 

[mudgudgeon]

I don't have the budget for a proper intercooler right now, but I'm looking into the Safari and CrossCountry I/C's.

Get the best A-A FMIC core you can find on ebay and a pipe kit. You'll do it at a fraction of the cost of either above and you'll be very close to the same outcome.
Safari core is too small for gturbo outputs

 

[lt1fire]

are the BEBs something than need to be done a few times? I thought it was just a design flaw and once replaced the upgraded ones are good to go.

 

[AussieHJCruza]

It's a good idea to do them every 100,000 ks

 

[roscoFJ73]

As to the machining, the work on the block is usually priced separate to the flywheel. I wouldn't assume it will be done.

 

[Sarmajor]

The BEB's were a failure caused by a specific suppliers bearings that sometimes delaminated after 100,000 or so km.
If they have not failed and your engine is past the danger zone of 100 - 150 k km and your oil pressure is ok, it would be unusual for you to have further problems.
Mine were replaced when I purchased my vehicle around 130 k km (dealer policy) and my engine has just gone past 338,000 km and is still going strong.

 

[zipdoa]

So... slowly but surely it's coming back together.

Injectors + IP have been sent out for rebuild, I also ordered a Grunter Extreme. Decided against the the Badboy since I don't balls out power.

Block has been bored +0.50 and correspondingly bigger piston kit has been ordered.

Hopefully I'll be cruising around in August!

Any work that should be done to the A440 to handle 15-20psi from the Grunter?

 

[IanB]

Good to see you pulling it all back together! And with some nice upgrades!

As for the trans, I'd expect a valvebody upgrade at the very least to put up with 20psi, assuming the trans is in good shape going into this new chapter. If it's not, maybe a torque converter, maybe some clutchpacks/rebuild. Fresh fluid is a no brainer before testing it out, and make sure you have a good trans cooler and gauge.

Are you sure it's an A440 and not a fully mechanical A442F? The firewall plate confirms? You'll want to nail that down before shopping for any parts!

 

[gnarlynick2072]

Good to see you pulling it all back together! And with some nice upgrades!

As for the trans, I'd expect a valvebody upgrade at the very least to put up with 20psi, assuming the trans is in good shape going into this new chapter. If it's not, maybe a torque converter, maybe some clutchpacks/rebuild. Fresh fluid is a no brainer before testing it out, and make sure you have a good trans cooler and gauge.

Are you sure it's an A440 and not a fully mechanical A442F? The firewall plate confirms? You'll want to nail that down before shopping for any parts!

Or maybe throw an H151 in there and call it a day.

 

[zipdoa]

I'm very interested in a manual swap.

I've heard the h55f is the better gearbox? What's the difference between that and the h151? Just ratios?

 

[gnarlynick2072]

I'm very interested in a manual swap.

I've heard the h55f is the better gearbox? What's the difference between that and the h151? Just ratios?

If you're seriously interested in a manual swap I can consult that with you since I've done it... I'm also in Calgary and have a few extra parts for the swap.

H151F is a direct bolt up compared to the H55F which wasn't available on the 80 series. It's still beefy. If you run 35s you "technically" won't need to change your diff ratios as the gearbox basically does that for you.

 

[Rock40]

I still have my H151F for sale along with all the parts but it's set to "tentatively" sell this coming weekend. I do have a line on several other H151's in the Seattle area if you're interested. Nick and I did our H151F swaps at about the same time. I have almost 10,000 miles (not KM's) on mine now and it's been great.

 

[zipdoa]

If you're seriously interested in a manual swap I can consult that with you since I've done it... I'm also in Calgary and have a few extra parts for the swap.

H151F is a direct bolt up compared to the H55F which wasn't available on the 80 series. It's still beefy. If you run 35s you "technically" won't need to change your diff ratios as the gearbox basically does that for you.

Looks like I missed out on a complete h55f locally. Might just spend the money on freshening up the suspension instead.

Hdj81 has the electronic sport damper button - are these still available? Or would the best route be some OME springs with fox ifp 2.0's?

 

[IanB]

Looks like I missed out on a complete h55f locally. Might just spend the money on freshening up the suspension instead.

Hdj81 has the electronic sport damper button - are these still available? Or would the best route be some OME springs with fox ifp 2.0's?

If you're looking at upgrading suspension, scrap the OME e-adj. shock setup and get some good shocks, and whatever springs you please. I've been happy with the Fox IFP 2.0's on mine.

 

[zipdoa]

If you're looking at upgrading suspension, scrap the OME e-adj. shock setup and get some good shocks, and whatever springs you please. I've been happy with the Fox IFP 2.0's on mine.

Got a good source for the fox shocks?

 

[IanB]

Got a good source for the fox shocks?

Ebay seller "DownSouthMotorsports" or something like that, check the thread on these shocks to be sure. I believe just about everyone has been getting them through this seller.

 

[Tapage]

sonny@downsouthmotorsports.com

And with the right parts you can make H55F bold on option but you would need to replace t-case as well and might be a litte short so your shifter will be couple of inches closet to the dash ..

 

[Douglas S]

I would put a valvebody in the trans and maybe a torque converter.

Based on all the research I've done over the years I see little reason to swap out to a manual trans, especially if you are increasing power. Better ratios in the automatic and they seem to be more robust.

 

[roscoFJ73]

They are still using the H15* behind the V8 diesels which are putting out 202hp and 317lb ft of torque. If that's what you have , I would stick with it. If it ever dies ,deal with it then. Concentrate on getting the engine up and running.

 

[mudgudgeon]

I would take a h151 over the h55f
It's bolt in, it's a newer design, designed as a 5 speed, not an updated 4 speed like the h55, 5th gear is on the one cluster shaft not separate so less wear and tear
It's a heavy duty box, as Roscoe said, it's still in use behind v8 TD
I think ratios are similar between the two