1HD-T Rebuild - Checklist

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

x3Ugp2N.jpg

oYWIg6W.jpg

PM0n82s.jpg

phubKWX.jpg

xVOXSt6.jpg


Should be up and running by the weekend!
 
Picked it up yesterday (finally! Thanks Johnny!) - motor sounds great. Turbo spools quickly to 23psi and we dialed in the EGT's not to exceed 1250f at this point under any conditions.

Running into a few issues now that the motor is sorted:

1. Occasional turbo flutter when auto tranny shifts gears at part throttle
2. Whine/squealing ONLY under throttle load. (driveshaft or pinion bearing??)
3. Zombie slow power windows/wipers
4. Rumbling/vibration while driving (driveshaft almost for sure)
5. DS Seatbelt constantly 'auto-catches' making it a pain in the ass to put on the seatbelt. Required a million gentle tugs to get enough length from it.
6. Serious clunking when I let off the throttle. Reminds me of when I had bad engine mounts in my old VW.
 
Don't go aftermarket with u-joints on drive shafts, pieces of s*** and don't last. Go OEM or the OEM supplier (can't remember who it is off hand). I went through 2 sets of aftermarket joints before spending money on OEM. Far superior and far more meat.

#2 and #6 could be related. Changing mounts is not difficult, just slightly nerve wracking. I changed mine as PM. You can tell if your transfer case lever is wobbling all over the place when driving.
 
clunking on de-throttle is likely to be worn out drive flanges and Cv splines at the front hubs. early 80s were notorious for it.

tap on and off throttle, if its CV/drive flange wear you'll get savage backlash through the driveline.
you can check it by removing dust caps off the end of the front hub, jack up the front wheel and rotate it. there'll be a little play, but the wheel shouldn't rotate more than a few degrees before the slop in the splines is taken up, that

Change to post 94 CV shafts and drive flanges. They have longer splines and are less prone to wear.
 
So it only whines in 4H, not in 4L, so i'm guessing that's xfer case related.

Also, when the CDL is locked, the clunking goes away when letting off the throttle.

Now the CDL is stuck on, trying to get it to disengage.
 
I heard of the build thread but wasn't sure where it was located.

Hope you get your other issues sorted out now that the engine is good to go.
 
I heard of the build thread but wasn't sure where it was located.

Hope you get your other issues sorted out now that the engine is good to go.

Hahaha, I had almost forgotten all the little problems my 80 had before it died last year. Thanks again for all your hard work!! Hopefully you'll have some time to make progress on your own projects now.
 
T-Case is done. $$$$$$$$$$$$$

Will be sourcing a new CDL ecu (i think it's called the transmission computer?), mine is toast



I now have a new noise... squealing under throttle. Happens in Drive and neutral. Sounds a lot like a slipping fan belt, but when it's squealing it will hold the revs on its own and takes a few seconds before it will idle down. Thoughts?

Also getting new exhaust done - 3" straight pipe. Will be sourcing a dump pipe from ebay.com.au unless anyone knows where I can get this locally:

s-l400.jpg
 
Last edited:
T-Case is done. $$$$$$$$$$$$$

Will be sourcing a new CDL ecu (i think it's called the transmission computer?), mine is toast



I now have a new noise... squealing under throttle. Happens in Drive and neutral. Sounds a lot like a slipping fan belt, but when it's squealing it will hold the revs on its own and takes a few seconds before it will idle down. Thoughts?

Also getting new exhaust done - 3" straight pipe. Will be sourcing a dump pipe from ebay.com.au unless anyone knows where I can get this locally:

s-l400.jpg


I'd recommend you have the exhaust run inside the chassis rail from the turbo, all the way to the back. Don't just follow the original path.
you get a far straighter path, far less bends, and flatter bends too. its been done lots, there should be threads and pics of it on here if you search.

It will mean you probably wont be able to source a suitable dump pipe on ebay, but will need custom made from the turbo back

I'd also suggest you fit at least one muffler in the system. They sound like crap with none. a full flow, straight through muffler won't affect performance, but will keep the droning and barking to a tolerable level. there's plenty of room underneath for decent size mufflers
 
T-Case is done. $$$$$$$$$$$$$

Will be sourcing a new CDL ecu (i think it's called the transmission computer?), mine is toast



I now have a new noise... squealing under throttle. Happens in Drive and neutral. Sounds a lot like a slipping fan belt, but when it's squealing it will hold the revs on its own and takes a few seconds before it will idle down. Thoughts?

Also getting new exhaust done - 3" straight pipe. Will be sourcing a dump pipe from ebay.com.au unless anyone knows where I can get this locally:

s-l400.jpg
I have a dump pipe from the same seller, but I bought one for a 100-Series so presumably it should be angled to run inside the frame rail as mentioned above. 2yrs later still sitting in my garage so I can't confirm how well it works.
100-series dump.jpg
 
Sorry for the late reply.

Not sure who John is using as a Machinist, but I imagine it's somewhere nearby to him (Edmonton area). @roscoFJ73 - I assume that the machinist will be looking over the entire block either way?

I'm trying to decide between a Grunter Extreme and a Badboy. Apparently there was contaminated oil in the turbo and oil pump, so I'm going to replace those items as well. I ordered a brand new crank from toyotapartsdirect.ca, $1650 shipped including tax.

I have not ordered a rebuilt kit yet, as I'm waiting to find out on piston size.

The IP and Injectors are going off to Okanagan Diesel Injection to get rebuilt.

John is checking the head this week and making sure it's solid.

I don't have the budget for a proper intercooler right now, but I'm looking into the Safari and CrossCountry I/C's.

Still need to order a new connecting rod and an oil pump - if anyone has part#'s handy that would be awesome!
 
Sorry for the late reply.

Not sure who John is using as a Machinist, but I imagine it's somewhere nearby to him (Edmonton area). @roscoFJ73 - I assume that the machinist will be looking over the entire block either way?

I'm trying to decide between a Grunter Extreme and a Badboy. Apparently there was contaminated oil in the turbo and oil pump, so I'm going to replace those items as well. I ordered a brand new crank from toyotapartsdirect.ca, $1650 shipped including tax.

I have not ordered a rebuilt kit yet, as I'm waiting to find out on piston size.

The IP and Injectors are going off to Okanagan Diesel Injection to get rebuilt.

John is checking the head this week and making sure it's solid.

I don't have the budget for a proper intercooler right now, but I'm looking into the Safari and CrossCountry I/C's.

Still need to order a new connecting rod and an oil pump - if anyone has part#'s handy that would be awesome!

This may sound like a newbie question about the inter cooler (Cause it is). But knowing that you can put the 6.5 chevy diesel in the cruiser.... Can you use it's intercooler on the yoda six diesel?
 
This may sound like a newbie question about the inter cooler (Cause it is). But knowing that you can put the 6.5 chevy diesel in the cruiser.... Can you use it's intercooler on the yoda six diesel?

Probably. Anything can be made to work but it might require more work than it's worth to make functional.
 
Kinda sorta what I was thinking.... I figured the intercooler would be a bolt on addition. but the piping might be problematic.
Any videos on a rebuild of a 1hd-t or h series diesel available on ih8mud ?
 
This thread should probably be renamed, or I might start a new 'build' thread. Here's some footage from my first day out wheeling since the rebuild. Didn't go crazy, but had some fun:

We drove 49 -> 88 and then tried 88 -> 95 but found it impassible near the end. Massive snow moguls, somewhat visible in the second pic.

The Taco is running 31" Nokian Hakkapelitta 8 and the HDJ81 had 33" Cooper ST Maxx.

DoEulPHl.png


This is where we had to turn around.

q1zX3Xal.png

JuSK4M4l.png


Still - lots of fun to be had:




0JCAO0tl.png
O6DLA62l.png

2CgUgVzl.png

KpD1iXxl.png

6kfitmUl.png
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom