1HD-FT valve adjustment questions (2 Viewers)

[kenavt]

Hey folks, I'm working to adjust the valves on my 1HD-FT, and was wondering a few things. Hoping to get some advice from folks who have done this before. The backstory here is that I went to replace my valve cover gasket, and thought I'd adjust the valves while I was in there - but I'm quickly learning that's easier said then done on one of these diesel 24-valve motors. Most folks online I've seen doing this have done it as part of a larger job like a timing belt swap, or pulling the intake manifolds to clean and delete EGR. I really wish I had left it for a bigger job, but here we are!

The first thing is how to put the engine at TDC exhaust (not TDC compression) to adjust the second set of valves. I put the engine at TDC compression by popping off the timing belt cover and checking the mark there on the camshaft pulley, as the crankshaft pulley mark is near-invisible with all the front-of-engine accessories on. The FSM says that you should just turn the crankshaft a full 360deg... so I've been doing a full 360deg to hit the TDC mark on the camshaft pulley a second time, which means I end up back at TDC on compression... is the rotational relationship not 1-1 there? Are there any other easy ways to figure out when I'm at the "right" TDC?

The second thing is that I measured my first few valves before adjusting them (stone cold), and I was measuring that the valves were dramatically out of spec (intake is supposed to be ~0.008", I was measuring 0.028" and above). The engine seemed to be running fine before, maybe a bit rattly and loud (I'm not used to being near diesels), so... are these readings valid? Could these be right? I feel like if the valves were this out of spec, there would have to be some sort of issue. I did leave the valve cover off for a long time (weeks) as life got in the way of me finishing this job.

FSM snippets below from RM-437E, the 1HD-FT Engine Repair Manual (but RM-617E for the 1HZ, 1HD-T, 1HD-FTE looks similar)

 

[gilmorneau]

For getting the motor to TDC, I used a "mirror on a stick" tool that I've had for years. That and a flashlight on the pulley and I could see the marks pretty easily. When you're at the "right" TDC, only the valves indicated in the FSM will be loose. 360 degrees on the pulley will get the other valves loose.

No idea how you're measuring the clearances, but it's possible they could be that far off. It would mean your valves aren't opening as far as they should. Not ideal, but not a catastrophe.

BTW, adjusting the valves on these motors is easier with the injectors and return line out, but it can be done with everything in place.

 

[kenavt]

For getting the motor to TDC, I used a "mirror on a stick" tool that I've had for years. That and a flashlight on the pulley and I could see the marks pretty easily. When you're at the "right" TDC, only the valves indicated in the FSM will be loose. 360 degrees on the pulley will get the other valves loose.

No idea how you're measuring the clearances, but it's possible they could be that far off. It would mean your valves aren't opening as far as they should. Not ideal, but not a catastrophe.

BTW, adjusting the valves on these motors is easier with the injectors and return line out, but it can be done with everything in place.

I'll have to try doing it with a mirror, that sounds great.

I have now realized it's so much easier with the injectors and return line (and manifold out)... after I committed to do it and was partway through

Would definitely recommend anyone in the future do this as part of an EGR delete and intake clean, injector service, timing belt removal... putting it together with any sort of job that makes access and working with stuff easier. Not like doing it on a gasser!

 

[euclid]

I'll have to try doing it with a mirror, that sounds great.

I have now realized it's so much easier with the injectors and return line (and manifold out)... after I committed to do it and was partway through

Would definitely recommend anyone in the future do this as part of an EGR delete and intake clean, injector service, timing belt removal... putting it together with any sort of job that makes access and working with stuff easier. Not like doing it on a gasser!

Diving in soon adding gonna have my injection pump rebuilt and turbo checked at the same time. Any specific tips or links to helpful threads on your EGR delete? I had hoped to install intercooler at same time as this maintence but its looking like I'll wait longer on that. thanks @gilmorneau for your helpful post above.

 

[kenavt]

Diving in soon adding gonna have my injection pump rebuilt and turbo checked at the same time. Any specific tips or links to helpful threads on your EGR delete? I had hoped to install intercooler at same time as this maintence but its looking like I'll wait longer on that. thanks @gilmorneau for your helpful post above.

I have not made any progress on this thanks to plenty of other-life concerns, and have scrapped doing an EGR delete for now (maybe in the fall).

For a 1HD-FT specifically though, I think it should be as easy as fabricating blank-off plates for the EGR ports on the exhaust manifold and intake pipe (like folks do for the 1HD-FTE), and then making sure the rest of the emissions vaccum hosing will be happy (I found Toyota FSM ERM111E which is "1HD-FT Engine Repair Manual for Emissions Control" for this purpose). However, based on YouTube videos I've seen of very dirty 1HD-FTE intake manifolds online, taking the intake manifold out to thoroughly clean it of carbon deposits created by the EGR system could be a worthwhile step too. Mine certainly has some carbon deposits on it I'd like to take off, and will do at some future point.

 

[gilmorneau]

I think it should be as easy as fabricating blank-off plates for the EGR ports on the exhaust manifold and intake pipe

You'll also need to add a ground strap for the pre-heater.

 

[euclid]

You'll also need to add a ground strap for the pre-heater.

Anyone mind snaping a pic of how they did their ground strap? I’m in analysis paralysis on this pretty big project looking for feedback on as many details as I can nail down before i put my DD in the shop in a few days.

 

[gilmorneau]

How Toyota did it on non-EGR motors (the black wire):

And how one guy did it after EGR delete (with a ground strap):

 

[euclid]

Super helpful! Got my three plates made today but seems i may have striped the threads on one of the two bolts on the lower one. Other than that the desmog is done time to move on to the valve adjustment and compression test.

 

[Bama4door]

Super helpful! Got my three plates made today but seems i may have striped the threads on one of the two bolts on the lower one. Other than that the desmog is done time to move on to the valve adjustment and compression test.

Biggest thing is having the Toyota SST (09248-64011), 32mm socket for crank and refer to the FSM diagram for valve shim size.

 

[euclid]

Biggest thing is having the Toyota SST (09248-64011), 32mm socket for crank and refer to the FSM diagram for valve shim size.

Got the 32 on hand. 1HD-FT has adjustable tapets no shims like the earlier motors.

 

[Bama4door]

Got the 32 on hand. 1HD-FT has adjustable tapets no shims like the earlier motors.

My bad, missed the F part

 

[euclid]

Seem really elementary like I’m missing something obvious but I cant find documentation anywhere on which valves are intake and which ones are exhaust. The FSM sheet above is what i’m working with I’ve been digging for an hour online. What am i missing?

 

[ikarus]

Check out around 8:20 in this video, the FSM for the 1HD-FTE is labeled IN/EX.



Should be the same for the 1HD-FT. Intake on cold side, exhaust on hot side