Builds 1FZFE overhaul

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Here is a closeup picture of the oil pump bushing and the "keyed" area showing that it was rolled and sealed together.

Not being an expert on manufacturing or an engineer i can only guess it's easier/cost efficient to make a long piece, stamp or cut sections and then roll it up; rather than mill each one out of a solid piece of metal.
oil pump bushing 011 (Medium).jpg
oil pump bushing 012 (Medium).jpg
 
thanks for all the details on the build
keep those pics coming...
 
3d jigsaw puzzle?
I can't say I've ever seen a bushing made quite like that. Do you have a set of calipers to measure it with? What are the dimensions of that piece? (od, id, length) Any guess on material? Doesn't look like brass or bronze, but the color could be off in the pics.
 
3d jigsaw puzzle?
I can't say I've ever seen a bushing made quite like that. Do you have a set of calipers to measure it with? What are the dimensions of that piece? (od, id, length) Any guess on material? Doesn't look like brass or bronze, but the color could be off in the pics.

I don't have any calipers, sorry.

I thought at first it was brass, but i'm honestly not sure. It has a lot more of a shiny metal color to it rather than a full brass color.
 
concretejungle - I've got a brand new Cometic MLS Head Gasket C4530-053 still in the wrapping if you're interested. $175 plus the ride.

You know you want the extra insurance for your boost. ;)
 
concretejungle - I've got a brand new Cometic MLS Head Gasket C4530-053 still in the wrapping if you're interested. $175 plus the ride.

You know you want the extra insurance for your boost. ;)

PM sent. :D
 
You're living the dream!
 
You're living the dream!


not now, it's more of a slow, dreamy when's it going to end kind of dream.

When i'm behind the wheel scooting down the road i will then be a happy man.

Thanks though! :cheers:
 
QUESTION:

Is there a specific FIPG type i should use? The orange is a high temp but it looks like the toyota product is a grey/black color. Is there anything i should avoid?
 
Made some pretty good progress today. Stopping for dinner and then will finish up after.

Cleaned the block out real well with air and brake cleaner. Got some FIPG and more shop rags and some block paint.

Got everything cleaned up and ready to go.

Then pressed in two new oil seals.

Installed the main bearings making sure to double check my math.

Installed the crank and main bearing caps. It is a little intimidating to torque the main bearing caps down to 54 ft/lbs, mark them and then turn them an additional 90 degrees.

Then i installed the pistons and connecting rods. ONly got two done before stopping to eat!
crank and rods 001 (Medium).jpg
crank and rods 004 (Medium).jpg
crank and rods 006 (Medium).jpg
 
stayed up until about 1:00am getting all the pistons in and everything torqued.

I have attached a few pictures showing that on both the main bearing caps and the connecting rod bearing caps, you torque each down to a specified torque (IIRC main's to 54 ft/lbs and rod caps to 34 ft/lbs) and then mark the bolt and torque an additional 90 degrees.

The connecting rod caps have a nice mark in the bolt head that you can use to measure your 90 degree turn very easily and accurately.

It is very important that as you insert the piston/rod into the cylinder head, you do not let the rod or the bolts touch the cylinder wall or the connecting rod counter balance. I was able to do this by having an extra set of hands, plus as i was tapping the piston in i had the motor turned sideways so i could reach my left hand up and into the bore and could guide the rod accurately into a good seat on the crank.
bearing cap bolts 005 (Medium).jpg
bearing cap bolts 001 (Medium).jpg
bearing cap bolts 002 (Medium).jpg
 
Showing the motor turned on it's side so i could "bear hug" with tapping in the piston with my right hand and guiding the rod with my left hand. :cool:
crank and rods 005 (Medium).jpg
crank and rods 006 (Medium).jpg
crank and rods 007 (Medium).jpg
 
Where's all the beer cans?
 
lol...
 
The witness marks are a great idea to show you what you've torqued up correctly and if a fastener is working loose. I always have a liquid paper pen and a black permanent marker handy when working in the cruiser for various jobs as you've done.

Keep up the good work. You must be gagging to get it running - much longer and the wait will drive you to drink HAHA!!!
 
:flipoff2:

I want it to run when i'm finished.

I hear that. I've learned to leave the beverages alone until after the day is done.

Going back the next day and saying "WTF was I thinking" really brings the suck.

On a side note, I had someone call me with front end problems a week ago and was looking for my thoughts on what might have gone wrong with the front axle rebuild.

He called back a couple days later to tell me the trunion bearings where installed upside down.

That wasn't even on my radar of possibilities and I still don't know how it was done.

And yes alcohol was involved.
 
Well, no pictures to show that i'm pretty much right back where i was in the last picture.

Had my friend come by who knows his stuff so we could push further in the rebuild and as soon as he got here he insisted that we pull a piston and check the ring gap. He said he has been thinking about that since he left the last time. I'm glad we did!

Pulled the #1 piston out and found that the ring gap was perfect, BUT, i had not cleaned the ring groove out on the piston and the assembly lube had started letting the carbon ooze out of the ring groove. SO, i ended up pulling every piston back out, cleaning all the ring grooves, reorienting the rings, putting the pistons back in and retorquing the bearing caps.

So now i'm exactly where i was, but now i KNOW it's right.

Lesson learned is take your time and don't skip any steps. As i looked back in the FSM it does say to clean the groove which i did not.

I could have had the head on but i'm still in the same spot.

Back to wrenching and when i start to put the head and other parts on, i'll document.
 

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