So when are the specs on the turbo coming? I like your style of pricing out everything, one of the hardest parts to grasp on the turbo project is the total overall cost of it.
Builds 1FZFE overhaul
- Thread starter concretejungle
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- #22
The "plan" is to follow landtank's lead as he has done a lot of research on this; so leaning to a GT35. The only thing i may do different (don't know if landtank is doing this or not) is probably "attempt" to place the intercooler similar to what blarsen did with his supercharger.
Right now i am itching to get the motor back and built that i have put the turbo on the back shelf. I just want to drive the truck again so bad!
I will for sure weld up the bungs for the oil return/feed and cap them, so all i have to do is purchase the turbo, ducting/elbows, intercooler, turbo manifold and install.
I thought it would be good to price everything out so that not only anyone looking to do the same will have a realistic cost, but so will I!! I kept thinking i could piece together a turbo for about $1200-1400, but that's not looking realistic.
If you don'tmind me asking, how much do you have in the block rebuild and machine work so far?
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- #24
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- #25
Was doing some assembly today and stumbled upon this 
You can see one side has a few wear marks but the other is completely broken off. What in the world could of caused this? I can only think this must have happened when i was tearing the motor down. Maybe when the timing chain dropped down as i removed the head, it could have gotten jamed down around the gear and when i removed the gears and chain and flywheel bolts i may have torqued it enough to break....
what do you think?
I was thinking about just smoothing it down and moving on. Also i'm going to inspect other parts in this area for damage. Maybe i need to add a new timing chain to the parts order list?
You can see one side has a few wear marks but the other is completely broken off. What in the world could of caused this? I can only think this must have happened when i was tearing the motor down. Maybe when the timing chain dropped down as i removed the head, it could have gotten jamed down around the gear and when i removed the gears and chain and flywheel bolts i may have torqued it enough to break....
what do you think?
I was thinking about just smoothing it down and moving on. Also i'm going to inspect other parts in this area for damage. Maybe i need to add a new timing chain to the parts order list?
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- #26
more OEM parts...
Wow, the parts just keep building up. Got the last of my parts i orderd from Cdan yesterday. Had to wait on a few bearings and things. Here's what came to add to the list of parts:
Bearing ..............................11701-66031-03......... $24.35
Bearing ..............................13041-66031-03.........$15.30
Bearing ..............................11701-66031-04 .........$24.35
Bearing ..............................13041-66031-04..........$15.30
Insulator (motor mount)........12361-66030..............$97.57
The only items i have not ordered and not sure if i am are:
Timing chain, power steering pump, small hoses.
Beno: thanks for forgetting to pack me an American Toyota sticker!
I would think after spending north of $1,000 i could get one! lol
Wow, the parts just keep building up. Got the last of my parts i orderd from Cdan yesterday. Had to wait on a few bearings and things. Here's what came to add to the list of parts:
Bearing ..............................11701-66031-03......... $24.35
Bearing ..............................13041-66031-03.........$15.30
Bearing ..............................11701-66031-04 .........$24.35
Bearing ..............................13041-66031-04..........$15.30
Insulator (motor mount)........12361-66030..............$97.57
The only items i have not ordered and not sure if i am are:
Timing chain, power steering pump, small hoses.
Beno: thanks for forgetting to pack me an American Toyota sticker!
I would think after spending north of $1,000 i could get one! lol
Was doing some assembly today and stumbled upon this
You can see one side has a few wear marks but the other is completely broken off. What in the world could of caused this? I can only think this must have happened when i was tearing the motor down. Maybe when the timing chain dropped down as i removed the head, it could have gotten jamed down around the gear and when i removed the gears and chain and flywheel bolts i may have torqued it enough to break....
what do you think?
I was thinking about just smoothing it down and moving on. Also i'm going to inspect other parts in this area for damage. Maybe i need to add a new timing chain to the parts order list?
I would sand it down and move on.
I would do the chain and also the slipper and tensioner. You'll kick yourself if you don't and if you want it to run for another million miles, it's good insurance !
Rgds...
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- #28
DANG!! Yep, tensioner is what i forgot to order!! Shoot, guess i'll do that and throw in a chain with it as well.
Supposed to pick everything up at the machine shop but it's been raining. Want to wait until it's not since it will ride home on a trailer and don't want it rained on.
I'll get the rundown on what all was done but i was told the bill was $600. He said the valves are a PITA and took him a while to check clearances ect...
$600 for the head ? You had it easy ! Try close to $1K in Nor Cal.
Don't forget, slipper AND tensioner. Don't do one w/o the other.
Rgds...
Don't forget, slipper AND tensioner. Don't do one w/o the other.
Rgds...
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- #30
No, that was for the head, block and crank. He didn't have to do much at all to the block and crank, said it was in great shape, just cleaned it up and polished a little.
Have no idea about the head.
Yea, I meant to say AND tensioner.
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- #31
Has anyone noticed the oil feed and the oil pump bushing and perhaps maybe the bushing may have spun just a little? Or do you think that is stock? Hard to get a picture.
Also, i warned the guy and i guess i scared him. When i picked everything up, i was happy except the block was relatively dirty on the exterior. The cylinder walls and everything that was machined looked great. He said he was so worried about that oil pump bushing that he didn't dip it and he said he doesn't bake. He said just spray it out and air it out good before re-assembly, but i'm hesitant. Is it OK to take it back and have him dip it? It will take forever with a wire wheel! Plus i'm worried about the residue in the cooling jackets and oil passages!
Suggestions?
Also, i warned the guy and i guess i scared him. When i picked everything up, i was happy except the block was relatively dirty on the exterior. The cylinder walls and everything that was machined looked great. He said he was so worried about that oil pump bushing that he didn't dip it and he said he doesn't bake. He said just spray it out and air it out good before re-assembly, but i'm hesitant. Is it OK to take it back and have him dip it? It will take forever with a wire wheel! Plus i'm worried about the residue in the cooling jackets and oil passages!
Suggestions?
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- #32
have everything lined up and ready to go! 
The mass of parts just grows!
The mass of parts just grows!
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- #33
Couple more.
Has anyone noticed the oil feed and the oil pump bushing and perhaps maybe the bushing may have spun just a little? Or do you think that is stock? Hard to get a picture.
Also, i warned the guy and i guess i scared him. When i picked everything up, i was happy except the block was relatively dirty on the exterior. The cylinder walls and everything that was machined looked great. He said he was so worried about that oil pump bushing that he didn't dip it and he said he doesn't bake. He said just spray it out and air it out good before re-assembly, but i'm hesitant. Is it OK to take it back and have him dip it? It will take forever with a wire wheel! Plus i'm worried about the residue in the cooling jackets and oil passages!
Suggestions?
If it was me, and I've kinda been in your situation, I would try find someone who can/would dip it and knows about the bushing.
I can't imagine going so far and spending that much money and not feeling 1000% satisfied about the block/oil passages & galleys etc. I'm not sure I could sleep at night if I didn't do it !
But then again, so many others have said I went 'way overboard' so I'm probably not a good barometer !
Rgds...
it looks like it could be positioned a little better for aligning to the journal.
I do see some where at the 12:00 o'clock position as orientated in the pick. That is from the helicut gears.
I would put the drive gear in there as check the play in that bushing. I also posted up a few picks of a bushing I replaced and you might compare what your's looks like to that one.
I had a tool made for pulling that bushing and also installing it. If you want to dip the block I can send you the tool so you can pull the bushing and reuse it.
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- #36
I just may do that! I saw where BJowett rigged up a series of nuts, washers and a bolt to pull it out.
I just want to do it right.
How/where did you get a new bushing?
I will try to get some better pictures up.
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- #37
no i agree. that's why i have not began reassembly. Everything is ready. While i'm putting the motor together the intakes were being dipped and bead blasted. Also, the oil bung for the turbo is being shipped and should be here either tomorrow or monday to weld onto the pan. And, the ARP head studs should be here either tomorrow or monday. That's really it, everything else is ready.
Lookin good Alex. Good luck dude.
I've now had 4 bushings machined out of navel brass. I have actually been talking to a guy about the cost of have a batch made as the one at a time ones are kind of expensive.
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- #40
ARP
Had a brown box on the porch today
I guess to insure proper packing and shipping, the label was on the packing slip, on the shipping box and on the actual box as well. 3 times!
ARP head Kit, Part # 209-4702, "Opel 2.5L V6 Head Stud Kit
Here are the measurements.
Had a brown box on the porch today
I guess to insure proper packing and shipping, the label was on the packing slip, on the shipping box and on the actual box as well. 3 times!
ARP head Kit, Part # 209-4702, "Opel 2.5L V6 Head Stud Kit
Here are the measurements.
