Builds 1FZ-FE Rebuild full overhaul - picture heavy (1 Viewer)

[scottryana]

I can't think of a reason why they wouldn't be? They are stronger and provide more clamping force than a stock bolt. It is very common in many motors to upgrade the mains with ARP, and also the main caps if the stock caps are not heavy/strong. The less deflection of the crank the better.

 

[120mm]

Studs are always stronger than bolts, and torque more reliably. The main drawback is clearances. Tight spaces become much tighter to work in when you have studs in the way.

I never bother to plastigage if I pay to get the block align honed.

I also have a zero tolerance for main bearing scratches. They are just too cheap and easy to replace during assembly and it takes a shockingly small scratch to bind and spin a bearing.

 

[Howard705]

Is there a weakness in the crank/mains/clamping?

 

[scottryana]

There might be when I do it. lol

 

[120mm]

A 7 main inline six is simply the strongest arrangement for the petrol engine I can imagine.

As long as they are align bored, your bearings are free of FOD, caps are seated completely and clearances are proper with good torque I can't imagine how it can be weak.

No need for 4 bolt mains or any of that V-block performance nonsense. </curmudgeon>

 

[scottryana]

Well that might be perfectly fine for a stock 212hp engine, but if the OP is asking about turbo etc. The small cost of a second set of ARP studs is so minimal why risk it.

 

[120mm]

Well that might be perfectly fine for a stock 212hp engine, but if the OP is asking about turbo etc. The small cost of a second set of ARP studs is so minimal why risk it.

I misunderstood. I thought you were talking about the design. I never reuse head or cap bolts. When space allows, I go to studs. If not, I go ARP bolts. The additional cost is miniscule.

There is a guy in Australia pulling mid 8's in a supercharged 200 c.i. inline six Ford and his block is stock, and those are a similar design to the LC engine.

 

[sbman]

You guys are going to make me spend another $200 on main bolt studs aren't you!

The time frame from paradise racing was long from order time to delivery. For this one I'm wanting things a bit quicker, can I order these same studs more directly/quickly?

 

[scottryana]

Yes you can order the supra headstud kit from many many places. Many times much cheaper than $200.

 

[sbman]

Is that the same set of studs? I had thought the paradise kit was slightly longer than the Opel set, but slightly shorter than the Supra kit.

 

[scottryana]

I do not think so. What is the ARB part number?

 

[sbman]

Have run into some issues, of course. That's why these thing take months instead of days.

Biggest issue is that the pistons it turns out are made in China. I very specifically told the machine shop no Chinese parts. Period. But the 'safety auto' pistons are in fact mainland china produced. If you are looking at a rebuild, now you know what they are. They won't go into my engine.

Another issue is that the timing cover wasn't decked with the block, so that will have to be corrected. Then there is the issue with the rod journal oil clearance so also have to deal with that.

 

[sbman]

There is no ARP part number. Paradise Racing claims that they have them custom made by ARP for the 1FZ-FE. The idea is you don't have to trim the bolt under the cam gears because it is the right length. I have not yet put the head on so I don't know if that is the case or not. I'll measure the paradise studs.

<edit>
Supra studs length at:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/1fz-fe-arp-head-studs-installed-with-part.441777/

 

[NLXTACY]

Have run into some issues, of course. That's why these thing take months instead of days.

Biggest issue is that the pistons it turns out are made in China. I very specifically told the machine shop no Chinese parts. Period. But the 'safety auto' pistons are in fact mainland china produced. If you are looking at a rebuild, now you know what they are. They won't go into my engine.

Another issue is that the timing cover wasn't decked with the block, so that will have to be corrected. Then there is the issue with the rod journal oil clearance so also have to deal with that.

Ugh, in both counts. Sucks.

 

[sbman]

Ugh, in both counts. Sucks.

It's this point in the process when you found out if your shop is any good or not. I think the pistons country of origin was an honest mistake, the materials I saw definitely said japan. On examination of the actual box it's a different story. On the pistons themselves there are tiny defects in the finish of the machining that I'm not willing to go with, tiny dings in the chamfer on the crown of the piston on a couple of them. Several of them don't have that issue, so the QA just wasn't there. The same branded 'Safety Auto' bearings are extremely high quality and they look 'perfect' on every chamfer and surface, the finish is flawless and they gauged out so close I couldn't detect a variation from journal to journal.

 

[CruiseOrlando]

Can I ask how much you saved going with these pistons vs. OEM? I note the OEM sub-assembly can be had for around $85, so there's not a tremendous amount of savings to be had... just curious why you picked the route you did.

 

[sbman]

Good question. It's was a 40% savings. $640 for pistons and pins, rings and all bearings. Over $1K for OEM. I was told they were all high quality Japanese parts. On the bearings, that is true, the pistons not so much. So whatever has to be done will be done to correct the issue. If the shop is as good as I've been told, they will apologize and we'll figure a solution to make it right, but those Chinese pistons aren't going in.

 

[scottryana]

You can get high quality forged pistons for about the same as OEM.

 

[sbman]

Where can I find those? All the forged pistons I've found are $1200 for a set of just pistons.

 

[scottryana]

JE's are $999 with rings I am pretty sure.

http://www.jepistons.com/Products/321321.aspx