Build 1FZ-FE Rebuild full overhaul - picture heavy

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Yeah, that's less than $200 more than OEM, not a significant increase. The lead time is long though. It's likely I'll order OEM pistons to replace the Chinese ones. I don't want to wait that long and don't really need the forged units.
 
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Awesome seeing 1fz rebuilds! -I get why guys drop LSx motors in, but really for long term practicality I see the 1 FZ powered 80's as the ones that really hold that peace of mind style reliability. A motor that goes 300k & has 2 rebuilds built in is something I think gets dismissed too easily.

I get it entirely where guys want more power either for dirt, towing, or simply highway on-ramps & don't blame them - but as a LS3 owner myself also I'll be HAPPY to get past 150k before it needs internal help & mine's all stock. I personally wouldn't swap to a domestic v8 unless I was going diesel, but that's me.

Anyway - the 1FZ threads always get lots of looks from me as it just seems right seeing a I6 underhood so I'll check in - if my boat lands & I still have my SC, I may be doing a head bolt kit myself.
 
subbed as well
 
Studs are always stronger than bolts, and torque more reliably. The main drawback is clearances. Tight spaces become much tighter to work in when you have studs in the way.

I never bother to plastigage if I pay to get the block align honed.

I also have a zero tolerance for main bearing scratches. They are just too cheap and easy to replace during assembly and it takes a shockingly small scratch to bind and spin a bearing.

I wouldn't suggest not checking bearing clearances simply because a block has been align honed. Skill levels and condition of honing equipment will vary greatly. I've seen main bores that were tapered from end to end, out of round, tilted (loses thrust clearance when this happens), etc... and this was AFTER the machine shop "honed" it.
 
Awesome seeing 1fz rebuilds! -I get why guys drop LSx motors in, but really for long term practicality I see the 1 FZ powered 80's as the ones that really hold that peace of mind style reliability. A motor that goes 300k & has 2 rebuilds built in is something I think gets dismissed too easily.

I can see the attraction to a swap, rebuilding the 1FZ-FE is not cheap, I probably could have spent similar money on a swap by the time it's all done. Maybe I'll add up all my receipts when I'm done, maybe not. Not sure I want to know the total.

I wouldn't suggest not checking bearing clearances simply because a block has been align honed. Skill levels and condition of honing equipment will vary greatly. I've seen main bores that were tapered from end to end, out of round, tilted (loses thrust clearance when this happens), etc... and this was AFTER the machine shop "honed" it.

Definitely agree with this. Even if for nothing else than your own peace of mind. If I have some kind of problem like low oil pressure I'll be happy I took the measurements and know which areas aren't likely to be the problem.

A few items are back at the machine shop, returned the pistons. Timing cover is getting bolted onto the block to be surfaced to the block's height since that was missed. The machinist is going to make a recommendation on the oil clearance for the rod journals. I'll probably pull the head out of it's bag tonight and post some glamour shots.
 
I get it entirely where guys want more power either for dirt, towing, or simply highway on-ramps & don't blame them - but as a LS3 owner myself also I'll be HAPPY to get past 150k before it needs internal help & mine's all stock. I personally wouldn't swap to a domestic v8 unless I was going diesel, but that's me.

i had over 200K on my Ls1 when i finally popped a head gasket from too much spray. sure, the transmission will go out, but dont say that the LS series is any worse than the 1FZ. they each have issues but i would not say one is better than the other from personally owning several of each.
 
I wouldn't suggest not checking bearing clearances simply because a block has been align honed. Skill levels and condition of honing equipment will vary greatly. I've seen main bores that were tapered from end to end, out of round, tilted (loses thrust clearance when this happens), etc... and this was AFTER the machine shop "honed" it.

To be more precise, in the machine shop I use, I don't plastigage. When I was working as an Aircraft Mechanic, I'd never heard of plastigage. I guess I am spoiled by the quality of the shop.
 
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Returned the pistons, took the block down to have the timing cover bolted on and surfaced to match the deck. They set the big end rod bearing clearances to the value I wanted, and had it all ready for me while I waited. Can't ask for better service. Now on with painting, cleaning up and starting assembly. Plus an order for Cruiserdan on Monday, need me some pistons.

Also, I have an OEM head gasket for sale, PM me if you want it. New in box, came from @cruiserdan about a month ago. I ordered the Cometic today.
 
To be more precise, in the machine shop I use, I don't plastigage. When I was working as an Aircraft Mechanic, I'd never heard of plastigage. I guess I am spoiled by the quality of the shop.

It's a convenient way to check oil clearances at home, validate that the shop did the work to the standard you expected. I plastigaged my Lycoming O-320 when I built it for my airplane too for my own peace of mind. Sometimes people make mistakes, even the best of them.
 
Thanks for the post. Can you explain rod journal oil clearance/maybe post a pic with the explanation? Thanks!
 
Returned the pistons, took the block down to have the timing cover bolted on and surfaced to match the deck. They set the big end rod bearing clearances to the value I wanted, and had it all ready for me while I waited. Can't ask for better service. Now on with painting, cleaning up and starting assembly. Plus an order for Cruiserdan on Monday, need me some pistons.

Also, I have an OEM head gasket for sale, PM me if you want it. New in box, came from @cruiserdan about a month ago. I ordered the Cometic today.

Are you getting a standard piston to replace the damaged one? I'm suspecting you'll at least need to deglaze that cylinder.
 
OK, I'll take the 5 yards and call a delay of game on myself. I didn't like the safety auto pistons so I returned th
em. Ordered a set of 0.5 over to go with my 0.5 over block from Cruiserdan. Probem solved. In the meantime, better prep some parts!

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