Looking good. You get that head on there, ship it to my place for a brief 250k mile break in/test. I'll get it back to you with a full report, signed by the governor.
1FZ-FE Engine Build
- Thread starter matthewscruiser
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- #42
nice try! But hey, new shortblocks are still out there for anyone irresponsible enough to buy one. Honestly it amazes me that they are still producing these.
Really nice work!
Thanks for posting
Thanks for posting
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- #44
Thanks for the compliment! I’m glad it seems to be helping some people
- Thread starter
- #46
I’m finally back in town and decided to get my cylinder head installed!
9/30/24. I sourced my cylinder head from a used running engine that had about 250k miles on it. The machine shop cleaned it, decked it .0035”, completed a nice 3 angle valve job on it, installed my OEM valve stem seals (included in overhaul gasket kit), and set all the valve gaps. It’s been taking up space in my laundry room for 6 months, it’s exciting to finally use it!
I started by checking the valve clearances (trust but verify) and found that they all fell within the factory range of .006”-.010” for intake, and .010”-.014” for exhaust.
Removed the camshafts per the FSM. I will not document that here, but I will try to show some of the install. Obviously procedure here is really important or you risk cracking a head/bending a cam.
Cleaned the intake/exhaust manifold gasket surfaces with scotchbrite/alcohol.
Installed new exhaust studs (x13 90116-10169). There is no torque spec listed in the FSM for these, but generally studs don’t need much torque since the nut will stretch the studs after the manifold is installed. I just used an E-Torx socket and seated them at about 15 ft-lb.
Thoroughly blew out all the chambers/holes/passages. I’m glad I did, I found a few small pieces of aluminum from the decking process.
9/30/24. I sourced my cylinder head from a used running engine that had about 250k miles on it. The machine shop cleaned it, decked it .0035”, completed a nice 3 angle valve job on it, installed my OEM valve stem seals (included in overhaul gasket kit), and set all the valve gaps. It’s been taking up space in my laundry room for 6 months, it’s exciting to finally use it!
I started by checking the valve clearances (trust but verify) and found that they all fell within the factory range of .006”-.010” for intake, and .010”-.014” for exhaust.
Removed the camshafts per the FSM. I will not document that here, but I will try to show some of the install. Obviously procedure here is really important or you risk cracking a head/bending a cam.
Cleaned the intake/exhaust manifold gasket surfaces with scotchbrite/alcohol.
Installed new exhaust studs (x13 90116-10169). There is no torque spec listed in the FSM for these, but generally studs don’t need much torque since the nut will stretch the studs after the manifold is installed. I just used an E-Torx socket and seated them at about 15 ft-lb.
Thoroughly blew out all the chambers/holes/passages. I’m glad I did, I found a few small pieces of aluminum from the decking process.
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- Thread starter
- #47
10/1/24. I installed my new crankshaft pulley (13470-66030) with an air impact and 30mm socket. I will use a large torque wrench to check/set the final torque once the engine is installed in the vehicle. I put assembly lube on the sealing surface.
I think replacing a crankshaft pulley is important. I have heard a few stories of them separating and leaving folks stranded without a water pump/alternator. The rubber on these are all 27+ years old now. I think Febest sells an aftermarket version for $100 if you don’t want the OEM from PartSouq for $240.
Ok, next was preparation for the big job!
I placed the cylinder head on my tailgate and admired it one last time. In the 2nd photo, you can see where the machine shop relieved the combustion chamber around the valves. This is supposed to help the flow on these heads and give a little more power.
Block surface cleaned thoroughly with alcohol and blew clean several times.
Any parts I needed were laid out, along with the tools to install them.
I opted for new OEM head bolts (x14 90910-02111) and new OEM head bolt washers (x14 90201-12222) through PartSouq. I know the ARP stud kits are popular and have their benefits, but there is nothing wrong with stock bolts for a naturally aspirated engine with a good cooling system. My train of thought was either use an MLS gasket and ARP studs, OR use the OEM gasket and OEM bolts. I chose the 2nd option, and its result is predictable.
I think replacing a crankshaft pulley is important. I have heard a few stories of them separating and leaving folks stranded without a water pump/alternator. The rubber on these are all 27+ years old now. I think Febest sells an aftermarket version for $100 if you don’t want the OEM from PartSouq for $240.
Ok, next was preparation for the big job!
I placed the cylinder head on my tailgate and admired it one last time. In the 2nd photo, you can see where the machine shop relieved the combustion chamber around the valves. This is supposed to help the flow on these heads and give a little more power.
Block surface cleaned thoroughly with alcohol and blew clean several times.
Any parts I needed were laid out, along with the tools to install them.
I opted for new OEM head bolts (x14 90910-02111) and new OEM head bolt washers (x14 90201-12222) through PartSouq. I know the ARP stud kits are popular and have their benefits, but there is nothing wrong with stock bolts for a naturally aspirated engine with a good cooling system. My train of thought was either use an MLS gasket and ARP studs, OR use the OEM gasket and OEM bolts. I chose the 2nd option, and its result is predictable.
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- Thread starter
- #48
Applied thin smears of Toyota black 103 FIPG between the timing cover and block per the FSM.
Then, the new OEM head gasket (included in OEM overhaul kit) was placed on the block.
Removed my lower zip tie on the timing chain slipper/damper. It will be too hard to reach once the cylinder head is on. I’ll snip the other two zip ties later.
Carefully lowered the cylinder head onto the block and lined up the dowel pins. A thin coat of engine oil was applied to all head bolts, and they were dropped in their holes with a new washer. I should mention that I sprayed alcohol in the head bolt holes in the block and applied compressed air to clean any debris out.
It might be hard to see, but I wrote the torque sequence for the head bolts on the cylinder head itself in green paint pen. I highly recommend doing this because it reduces the chance that I make a mistake and torque them out of order. A black Sharpee would have worked better.
All bolts were torqued to 29 ft-lb in sequence with a 12mm 12-point socket. I checked the torque on all of them again. Then, I put small paint dots on the edge of the bolt nearest the front of the engine. Using a breaker bar, torque all the bolts 90 degrees in sequence. Repeat another 90 degrees. All the dots are now facing the rear of the engine. Job done!
Assembly lube applied to the sides/tops of the lifters.
Then, the new OEM head gasket (included in OEM overhaul kit) was placed on the block.
Removed my lower zip tie on the timing chain slipper/damper. It will be too hard to reach once the cylinder head is on. I’ll snip the other two zip ties later.
Carefully lowered the cylinder head onto the block and lined up the dowel pins. A thin coat of engine oil was applied to all head bolts, and they were dropped in their holes with a new washer. I should mention that I sprayed alcohol in the head bolt holes in the block and applied compressed air to clean any debris out.
It might be hard to see, but I wrote the torque sequence for the head bolts on the cylinder head itself in green paint pen. I highly recommend doing this because it reduces the chance that I make a mistake and torque them out of order. A black Sharpee would have worked better.
All bolts were torqued to 29 ft-lb in sequence with a 12mm 12-point socket. I checked the torque on all of them again. Then, I put small paint dots on the edge of the bolt nearest the front of the engine. Using a breaker bar, torque all the bolts 90 degrees in sequence. Repeat another 90 degrees. All the dots are now facing the rear of the engine. Job done!
Assembly lube applied to the sides/tops of the lifters.
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- Thread starter
- #49
Installing the intake camshaft:
I placed the camshaft on the cylinder head with the two dot mark approximately 25 deg above the center of the cylinder head. This should put the cam lobes for cylinder 1 and 4 evenly pushing on their respective lifter on opposite sides.
The #2 and #5 bearing caps were lubed and placed on the cam. Then follow the sequence in the FSM and evenly bring the camshaft down by slowly torque each cap. Make sure there is no binding, especially near the #1 cam journal.
Once the bolts for #2 and #5 are bottomed out and the cam was seated, I installed the #3, #4, #6, and #7 caps and snugged in sequence. Then I did the same for the #1 cap.
Lastly, I torqued all intake bearing caps to 12 ft-lb per FSM. The cam rotated freely.
A similar process is used for the exhaust camshaft.
I placed the camshaft on the cylinder head with the two dot mark approximately 25 deg above the center of the cylinder head. This should put the cam lobes for cylinder 1 and 4 evenly pushing on their respective lifter on opposite sides.
The #2 and #5 bearing caps were lubed and placed on the cam. Then follow the sequence in the FSM and evenly bring the camshaft down by slowly torque each cap. Make sure there is no binding, especially near the #1 cam journal.
Once the bolts for #2 and #5 are bottomed out and the cam was seated, I installed the #3, #4, #6, and #7 caps and snugged in sequence. Then I did the same for the #1 cap.
Lastly, I torqued all intake bearing caps to 12 ft-lb per FSM. The cam rotated freely.
A similar process is used for the exhaust camshaft.
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- Thread starter
- #50
Exhaust camshaft installed, and SERVICE BOLT REMOVED. Camshafts rotated so that the double dots are on the outside edge of the head and the single dots are matched on the inside of the head where the two cam gear meet.
Crankshaft verified to be at TDC. Timing chain sprocket/black link checked to be matched.
I snipped my last zip ties securing the timing chain (careful not to drop these in the timing cover) and installed the sprocket onto the intake camshaft.
Crankshaft verified to be at TDC. Timing chain sprocket/black link checked to be matched.
I snipped my last zip ties securing the timing chain (careful not to drop these in the timing cover) and installed the sprocket onto the intake camshaft.
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- Thread starter
- #51
Distributor gear and bolt installed and torqued to 54 ft-lb per FSM (while holding take cam still with wrench).
Installed new OEM tensioner (13540-66011) and gasket (included in OEM overhaul gasket kit). Make sure the tap on the gasket sticks out towards the front of the engine. Torqued nuts to 15 ft-lb.
Installed new OEM tensioner (13540-66011) and gasket (included in OEM overhaul gasket kit). Make sure the tap on the gasket sticks out towards the front of the engine. Torqued nuts to 15 ft-lb.
I'm in the process of getting mine going as well. You've done a much better job of documenting the process with photos! Mine is getting close...got lots of cleaning and scrubbing of the engine bay and trans/tcase while it's all out. I'm also replacing the hard lines to the rear heater and all the PS system, brake booster and a few other odds and ends while it's apart.
What a silly way to go broke....ha ha ha!
What a silly way to go broke....ha ha ha!
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- #53
And that’s it! Cylinder head is now installed. Many accessories to come.
- Thread starter
- #54
Beautiful engine! Yes, there’s way too many “while you’re in there” temptations with the engine pulled, but it’ll be nice when it’s done.
It is a silly way to go broke, but it’s still a little cheaper than a lot of these newer cars
Indeed it is. guess maybe I should start a thread of my project. I've dumped too much money into this old 80 to not have it chronicled somewhere. Like I said- you did a great job documenting your build so far. What prompted you to replace your engine?Beautiful engine! Yes, there’s way too many “while you’re in there” temptations with the engine pulled, but it’ll be nice when it’s done.
It is a silly way to go broke, but it’s still a little cheaper than a lot of these newer cars
- Thread starter
- #56
Thanks! I've had fun snapping pictures of it.
I got my LX a few years ago and decided that I would like to drive it for a long time. It's my daily driver, and I want the most reliability I can get. The current engine has 276k miles and runs fine--it uses a quart of oil every 1500 miles and seems a little tired compared to my sister's 80. I'll either store it or sell it to someone who needs a used one. I probably need to advertise it now so a buyer can drive it before I remove it.
The machine shop that did my cylinder head also relieves the combustion chamber around the valves a little bit, and I've heard several of their customers say it feels a little peppier than the average head job. I'm hoping that, along with a fresh rebuild, will give me a little extra push up the hills in Birmingham!
But yes, I realize I am replacing my engine as "preventative maintenance". I'm also putting in a low mileage transmission with 125k miles on it too. Better than buying a new land cruiser.
I suppose it also reminds me of building an Austin Healey Sprite engine with my grandfather in High School before he passed. It was a good memory for me, and I learned a lot from him.
Really nice work!
Thanks for posting
Thanks for posting
- Thread starter
- #58
I have some very exciting posts coming soon about building the intake, but for today, I’m just covering some odds and ends.
There are 4 “sensors” installed on the intake side of the cylinder head. 3 of them are different engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensors. I’ll work from left to right.
The ECT sensor for the gauge (part # 83420-16040) belongs in the green circle. I didn’t see a torque spec in the FSM. I torqued to about 20 ft-lb with a 17mm deep socket.
The ECT cut switch (part # 88790-60050) goes in the orange circle. This cuts off your AC compressor at a specific temperature. I didn’t find a torque spec for this one either, but 20 ft-lb or so should be fine (19mm deep socket).
The ECT for EFI (89422-35010) should be installed in the blue circle. This one requires a sealing gasket (90430-12005). Torque to 17.5 ft-lb per FSM with a 19mm deep socket.
Last, but not least, the TVV (25820-13020) for the evap system is installed as seen in the red circle. The FSM specifies to apply ThreeBond 1324 or equivalent (loctite 242), but the new sensor comes with sealer already applied. The FSM says torque to 22 ft-lb, but you really can’t get a socket on it. I just used a 19mm wrench and torqued to approx 22 ft-lb, making sure to stop with the two vacuum hose nipples facing forward/slightly up.
If you do choose to replace these sensors, PartSouq was a great place to source them for me. Those guys and Serra Toyota Birmingham have all my money
There are 4 “sensors” installed on the intake side of the cylinder head. 3 of them are different engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensors. I’ll work from left to right.
The ECT sensor for the gauge (part # 83420-16040) belongs in the green circle. I didn’t see a torque spec in the FSM. I torqued to about 20 ft-lb with a 17mm deep socket.
The ECT cut switch (part # 88790-60050) goes in the orange circle. This cuts off your AC compressor at a specific temperature. I didn’t find a torque spec for this one either, but 20 ft-lb or so should be fine (19mm deep socket).
The ECT for EFI (89422-35010) should be installed in the blue circle. This one requires a sealing gasket (90430-12005). Torque to 17.5 ft-lb per FSM with a 19mm deep socket.
Last, but not least, the TVV (25820-13020) for the evap system is installed as seen in the red circle. The FSM specifies to apply ThreeBond 1324 or equivalent (loctite 242), but the new sensor comes with sealer already applied. The FSM says torque to 22 ft-lb, but you really can’t get a socket on it. I just used a 19mm wrench and torqued to approx 22 ft-lb, making sure to stop with the two vacuum hose nipples facing forward/slightly up.
If you do choose to replace these sensors, PartSouq was a great place to source them for me. Those guys and Serra Toyota Birmingham have all my money
- Thread starter
- #59
I painted some used engine lift brackets and installed with new bolts (x4 90080-10177). Torque to 30 ft-lb per FSM.
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- Thread starter
- #60
Now, for an insurance policy, I decided to modify a blue hub fan clutch. My goal was a set point of 110F and 42ml of 30k silicone.
I have my reasons for choosing those numbers, but that’s really a discussion for somewhere else. The main point is that I want a robust cooling system to protect my new engine!
First I disassembled a new Aisin blue hub fan clutch (FCT004) sourced from Rock Auto using a #3 Phillips head screw driver.
Flipped each half upside down in a pan and baked in the oven at 150F for 4 hours. I removed and tilted each one at different angles every 30 minutes to try to get as much fluid out as possible.
I have my reasons for choosing those numbers, but that’s really a discussion for somewhere else. The main point is that I want a robust cooling system to protect my new engine!
First I disassembled a new Aisin blue hub fan clutch (FCT004) sourced from Rock Auto using a #3 Phillips head screw driver.
Flipped each half upside down in a pan and baked in the oven at 150F for 4 hours. I removed and tilted each one at different angles every 30 minutes to try to get as much fluid out as possible.
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