1FZ-FE Engine Build Questions for a FJ40

[estoltman]

Hello,

I got a 1FZ-FE to drop into my FJ40 w/a H55. Folks suggested I asked the engine questions over here.

I pllan to keep it pretty mild. Full rebuild, balance and blue print, Haltech ECU, mild Kelford cams w/springs.

It's used for street and off-road/overlanding. No rock crawling/extreme stuff.

What I need recommendations on:
1. Compression - should I increase?
2. Stroker Kit - any reasonably priced ones out there? The ones I saw were mucho $$$. I don't know if I really need it.
3. Header - do I need one? Do you get a torque boost.
4. MAF - I'd like to upgrade from the factory airflow box to an aftermarket straight thru MAF. Any recommendations?
5. Head - I'd read about folks installing large valves. Is this warranted for my use? Also, just curious, how well do the ports match on the head? On my 5MGe (2.8L DOHC Supra engine in the 80s) I had to open up the exhaust ports on the cylinder head to match my header and need some matching on the intake side as well, but not as extreme. Just fine tuning and some polishing. made a difference!
6. Does the Haltech 750 provide everything I need?

Also, what are the differences in the intake manifolds? I have seen two different versions for the FE engine - one with a straight plenum along the top. Both factory. I had originally wanted to keep it uber simple and run a carb intake with a Sniper, but found out the carb models were never sold in the US. South America only I believe.

Any other thoughts? If I wanted to future proof it and be able to add a supercharger or turbo on the future, any suggestions up front?

Thanks!

 

[77mustard40]

Owning both a 40 and FZJ80, I’d say you don’t need to crazy on a 1FZ-FE thats going into a 40. I used to have a 3FE powered 40 and it was night and day different from a 2F powered 40. A solid stock 1FZ-FE mated to a manual box will be a huge change in a 40

 

[pgmatt]

1- Stock compression is fine as there isn't any affordable non forged piston options to raise it.
2- Stroker kits start around 5K US for Spool motorsports or similar kits. Awesome idea but obviously expensive.
3- Definitely a little bit to be had with a good header design and free flowing exhaust. You are not fitting this into the original chassis it came from so will be building custom exhaust anyways.
4- With the Haltech you can switch over to speed density and don't need a MAF sensor at all. Make life easier for plumbing air intake. Also can switch to coil on plug and ditch most of the distributor other than sensors inside. Will clean things up, provide better spark and be more water proof.
5- If you have access to a good cylinder head guy then yes once again a bit to be had by cleaning up cylinder head ports and possibly some nice valves/springs.
6- Haltech 750 elite will do everything you need and is an excellent choice.

Intake manifolds there is 3 factory ones - Carb engines [never seen one] , FZJ80 intake manifold and FZJ100 [2nd gen 1FZ] etc manifold. The FZJ80 one will be find and the other aftermarket ones are short runner, designed for big turbo setups and expensive.
Defiantly do ARP head studs and a good quality MLS head gasket such as Cometic or JE Proseal. This way you will be future proof for turbo if you decide you need a 4-500hp FJ40. A 1FZFE with a cleaned up head and good flowing exhaust setup will make a solid 250hp/300 ftlb that would be fantastic with a manual transmission in a FJ40. Will probably get significantly better fuel mileage in a FJ40 with a good tune as well compared to a FZJ80. Below are some sources for parts and you will note they are Australian as most people who do anything with a 1FZ are in Australia or the Middle East of which I dont know off hand good parts places there for aftermarket stuff. The guy posting stroker builds and dynos in Quatar i think may know good places to shop online from over there. Partsouoq is noted below and great for OEM Toyota stuff.

HD auto

Chasing adventures

Partsouq

 

[estoltman]

Freakin' fantastic info! THANK YOU!!!!!!!

 

[ALX4X4]

have a look at the naughty40 you tube 1fz build too

 

[mudgudgeon]

105 series 1fz-fe have a crank position sensor in the upper sump, and a cam position sensor in the head.

If you want future proofing and tunability, the 105 series upper sump and head may give you more options

 

[AussieHJCruza]

105 series 1fz-fe have a crank position sensor in the upper sump, and a cam position sensor in the head.

If you want future proofing and tunability, the 105 series upper sump and head may give you more options

No provision for the distributor either which makes for a nice clean wasted spark or sequential ignition install which might as well do if you're doing a haltech.

 

[estoltman]

Best places to source rebuild kits from? I saw a recommendation for @Beno and pinged him.

 

[SNLC]

If you have not seen it there is a company in Australia that has built a 40-series bezel (gauge cluster) to suit these kind of swaps using a haltech.

Cheers

 

[gonzopancho]

If you have not seen it there is a company in Australia that has built a 40-series bezel (gauge cluster) to suit these kind of swaps using a haltech.

Cheers

not to thread jack, but this seems interesting. do you have more info? company name maybe?

 

[gonzopancho]

As an example of what's possible:

1972 FJ40
1FZ-FE (2nd gen out of a 105)
katzuma supercharger
haltech 750, individual coils instead of the stock wasted spark
stock exhaust, injectors, cams, headgasket, headbolts
H55F (fj.co bell housing)
70-series e-locked axles w/discs (from a hzj75 troopy)

 

[mudgudgeon]

As an example of what's possible:

1972 FJ40
1FZ-FE (2nd gen out of a 105)
katzuma supercharger
haltech 750, individual coils instead of the stock wasted spark
stock exhaust, injectors, cams, headgasket, headbolts
H55F (fj.co bell housing)
70-series e-locked axles w/discs (from a hzj75 troopy)

Zyooom zyooom

 

[estoltman]

Question - is upgrading from the early US domestic intake manifold to the later model foreign intake a worthwhile investment? $$$ vs HP? (BTW - I still like the look of the carb intake with a Sniper - just very clean. But wouldn't be as nice a Haltech).

 

[SmokingRocks]

There was a recent post in the 80's section about how much power was gained from doing a full port & polish on the head along with bigger valves. The pickup in power was significant. Pair that with a good header and I'd say it'd be worth it. If my head ever comes off again I'm planning on doing this to it.

 

[estoltman]

Thank you! Any threads you can point me to on converting to Coil-On-Plug and removing the distributor? A co-worker pointed me to later model oil pan and the lower end pickup sensor for crank position; there is a new/different gear required on the crankshaft? And there is another sensor pickup on the dizzy?

 

[estoltman]

Digging into multiple threads on this site and others, some info I wanted to verify:
1) MAP/Speed density appears to be the preferred setup
2) Gains from headers and cams are minimal for a Landcruiser application. Thoughts on this?
3) Spend money on head work and increasing flow

 

[grillo]

Hello everyone,
That's anyone knows someone that works on fj80 motors in nj

 

[gonzopancho]

Question - is upgrading from the early US domestic intake manifold to the later model foreign intake a worthwhile investment? $$$ vs HP? (BTW - I still like the look of the carb intake with a Sniper - just very clean. But wouldn't be as nice a Haltech).

I went from a carb intake and Sniper back to the US intake (and larger valves, cams, coil packs) on the 5.2L stroker.

Most of the gain with the MY98-up setup is that the head is actually better (too), not just the intake.

 

[SmokingRocks]

Digging into multiple threads on this site and others, some info I wanted to verify:
1) MAP/Speed density appears to be the preferred setup
2) Gains from headers and cams are minimal for a Landcruiser application. Thoughts on this?
3) Spend money on head work and increasing flow

Headers are going to support the head work, if you are going to do the work to port and polish the head you want a good set of headers behind that.

Yes the stock headers are decent for a stock head but they aren’t if you are doing all that work.

 

[gonzopancho]

Y’all need to consider just how tight you plan to turn your 1fz.

Stock redline (on an 80 tach) is 5,000 rpm.
Stock displacement is a touch under 4.5l (4476.78cc or 237.19 in^3)

Assuming a VE of 0.8, that’s 9000l/min or about 318 cfm. This is the intake volume.

Straight exhaust tube flows about 115 CFM per square inch. 2.0” 16ga tube will flow about … 318 cfm. 2.5” will flow a bit over 500 cfm. This is more than enough to accommodate the mass of the (burnt and unburnt) fuel and the expansion of the exhaust due to increased temp.

Yes, getting the exhaust tube diameter and primary length can improve scavenging and therefore VE.

Yes, a bit of porting will improve VE.

Yes, forced induction will definitely improve VE.

That fzj40 above is running about 4.7psi of boost, and it was definitely running at sea level in that video (Cartagena, Colombia). Atmospheric pressure at sea level is 14.7 psi, so the supercharger increased the intake volume by about 32% before accounting for the increased intake air temp, but even a 25% increase in effective displacement is HUGE, VE goes up because you’re no longer counting on vacuum to fill the cylinder.

Take a 5.2L stroker, turn it to 6,500 and get the VE up to 1.0 and the intake volume goes to nearly 17,000l/min or 600cfm, and now you’re looking at a 3.0” exhaust, minimum, otherwise back-pressure will rise and VE will drop, so torque drops. So now you run dual exhaust so only half the displacement is in each tube.

I get the race tractor thing. I really do. It’s fun.

But if it’s a daily driver, you’re also unlikely to spending a lot of time anywhere near 5,000 rpm.