Yes - I searched. There are about two threads that I could find that really cover this. I'm hoping to pick some peoples brains who have broken in their motors with a similar rebuild on them.
Planning on getting my fresh 1fz in the truck this weekend. It has a rebuilt head (same cams - important for needing a zinc additive or not?), fresh rings, original rods and pistons, new main and con rod bearings and fresh seals all around.
This is my first time building the bottom end of a motor but not the first time pulling/installing one. With the amount of $$$ put into this rebuild (yes i know i could have done a V8, I didn't want that) I really don't want to blow it by doing something like not ensuring the rings seat as well as possible.
A lot of people say with the same cams that were previously in the motor that they're already "broken in" and just straight 5-30 mineral oil is good enough and to go vary RPMs for an hour or so and do oil changes at 500, 1000 and 3000 miles, then switch to synthetic if wanted.
Here is what i was planning:
1. after verifying and pressure testing both cooling and fuel system start and let the truck come to operating temp in the garage, shut down and inspect for leaks again. Check any CEL's and make sure everything is set up how it should be.
2. start back up and go drive varying RPM for ~1 hr with some almost WOT and sudden deceleration per some recommendations.
3. change oil due to the mass amount of assembly lube (permatex red stuff) i know i used and is floating through there.
4. use conventional oil for the first 5000 miles changing at:
-after first long drive
-500 miles
-another 1000 miles
-3000 miles
-switch to T6 synthetic and run at 5k intervals
Thoughts, recommendations, tell me im an idiot?
With an engineering background its hard to believe there are no thorough published tests for the most effective motor break in procedures (that i could find).
Planning on getting my fresh 1fz in the truck this weekend. It has a rebuilt head (same cams - important for needing a zinc additive or not?), fresh rings, original rods and pistons, new main and con rod bearings and fresh seals all around.
This is my first time building the bottom end of a motor but not the first time pulling/installing one. With the amount of $$$ put into this rebuild (yes i know i could have done a V8, I didn't want that) I really don't want to blow it by doing something like not ensuring the rings seat as well as possible.
A lot of people say with the same cams that were previously in the motor that they're already "broken in" and just straight 5-30 mineral oil is good enough and to go vary RPMs for an hour or so and do oil changes at 500, 1000 and 3000 miles, then switch to synthetic if wanted.
Here is what i was planning:
1. after verifying and pressure testing both cooling and fuel system start and let the truck come to operating temp in the garage, shut down and inspect for leaks again. Check any CEL's and make sure everything is set up how it should be.
2. start back up and go drive varying RPM for ~1 hr with some almost WOT and sudden deceleration per some recommendations.
3. change oil due to the mass amount of assembly lube (permatex red stuff) i know i used and is floating through there.
4. use conventional oil for the first 5000 miles changing at:
-after first long drive
-500 miles
-another 1000 miles
-3000 miles
-switch to T6 synthetic and run at 5k intervals
Thoughts, recommendations, tell me im an idiot?
With an engineering background its hard to believe there are no thorough published tests for the most effective motor break in procedures (that i could find).