- Year
- 1996
- Vehicle Model
- 80 Series
- Mileage
- 269000
- Color
- White
Photos Here: Dixie
Exterior:
Startup:
Driving: February 16, 2020
End of Drive: February 16, 2020
I’m sorry this day has come, but I’m selling my 1996 FJZ80 converted to a HDJ80. She’s got 270k on the body, with 5-15k on most of the major components. Rust anywhere is extremely limited, even by California standards. Fully mechanical drive train, new paint, great shape inside and out, with plenty of unique components and equipment to guarantee she runs for decades to come.
I’ve never run the Carfax, but she has a clean title and my understanding is three owners. I have receipts going back to the first owner, with a conservative $65,000 of my own money into her (including purchase). I’ve picked up parts online, via mud, and locally along the way to eventually create a vehicle I could drive to Alaksa and anywhere else I wanted to go.
Why I’m selling: Simplify and downsize. We currently have five cars and four of them are cruisers. I’ve worked far too much these last few years to take advantage of any of the toys I have, so this, probably my 200, and possibly another of our cars is on the block.
I’ve put 20k miles on Dixie since I bought her, and that includes a trip from South Carolina to California. As she is today, she’s a turnkey rig that starts up faster than any car I’ve seen.
Dixie is registered here in California in my name with a clean title and California plates. Her registration is roughly $135/year and she’s a smog free 1996 diesel registered cruiser. Left hand drive, factory lockers that work, and no grey market issues to worry about.
I want the new owner to be happy, and I want anyone considering her to know of any flaws and shortcomings. The list is short, and if you make it past it, there’s some cool stuff , but here it is:
The bad:
Exterior/internals:
Interior:
Exterior:
Startup:
Driving: February 16, 2020
End of Drive: February 16, 2020
I’m sorry this day has come, but I’m selling my 1996 FJZ80 converted to a HDJ80. She’s got 270k on the body, with 5-15k on most of the major components. Rust anywhere is extremely limited, even by California standards. Fully mechanical drive train, new paint, great shape inside and out, with plenty of unique components and equipment to guarantee she runs for decades to come.
I’ve never run the Carfax, but she has a clean title and my understanding is three owners. I have receipts going back to the first owner, with a conservative $65,000 of my own money into her (including purchase). I’ve picked up parts online, via mud, and locally along the way to eventually create a vehicle I could drive to Alaksa and anywhere else I wanted to go.
Why I’m selling: Simplify and downsize. We currently have five cars and four of them are cruisers. I’ve worked far too much these last few years to take advantage of any of the toys I have, so this, probably my 200, and possibly another of our cars is on the block.
I’ve put 20k miles on Dixie since I bought her, and that includes a trip from South Carolina to California. As she is today, she’s a turnkey rig that starts up faster than any car I’ve seen.
Dixie is registered here in California in my name with a clean title and California plates. Her registration is roughly $135/year and she’s a smog free 1996 diesel registered cruiser. Left hand drive, factory lockers that work, and no grey market issues to worry about.
I want the new owner to be happy, and I want anyone considering her to know of any flaws and shortcomings. The list is short, and if you make it past it, there’s some cool stuff , but here it is:
The bad:
- Slight rash where I hit a stick on passenger rear door. You can maybe see it in photos. It can be touched up, but at this point I’d rather the new owner see it and decide how they want to handle.
- Rear tailgate has some damage from the high lift mount Just a little paint missing from the top ladder. If you wonder why it’s not in the pictures (the high lift), I gave up on running it after it rattled loose.
- Transmission sometimes has issues engaging torque converter when the transmission warms up. It otherwise shifts firm and strong and is almost brand new by A442F standards (20k miles on it). I have it scheduled to get to a shop. There is a silver lining for the new owner. The truck comes with an H151F. The five speed will go great with the 35” tires and stock gearing. Toyota Land Cruiser 80 series 5 Speed H151F Conversion Kit
- This is still a 25-year-old car. It’s in fantastic shape, but it’s 25 years old. You can replace weatherstripping here and there over the years, maybe clean up the rear window motor speed, but you can skip all the money pit measures I’ve gone through. It’s a fantastic rig, and one you can take almost anywhere in the world safely and reliably.
Exterior/internals:
- New paint job in the original factory Toyota white. Some knucklehead hit her rear passenger door and I took the opportunity to have a friend’s shop paint her all the way around. This was completed four years ago and is still one of the nicest jobs I’ve seen on an 80. Gary @ Mudrak said it looks like the $10k jobs most people pay on their rigs if they do the entire outside. Roof was welded to eliminate rack holes. Many new seals all around. About $6k into that.
- Front end fully rebuilt, with everything gone through and nice and tight. $2k.
- 1HDT engine with rebuilt injectors, injection system, and a full top end rebuild. This cost me $10k in addition to the engine/swap the PO did. This engine is now super solid and will run for decades with no problems. Timing belt, BEB, you name it, it’s been done.
- A442 transmission from Wholesale Automatics. It has a billet torque converter and external cooler. I have an external mount cooler that can be mounted behind the winch or in another location. I meant to get to this, but like so much else these last few years, I didn’t finish this. I have $5k+ into this. If you’re not going to swap the 5 speed in, I can have this done prior to sale no problem.
- ARB front bumper with a Warn 12000 winch. This package ended up costing about $2500 installed.
- Slee rear bumper. Installed by Mudrak. $3,400 plus install, which was roughly $600.
- Old Man Emu 2.5/3” suspension lift kit installed 15k ago. $1250 installed. Heavy suspension and rides well.
- Drilled/slotted front rotors. Slee stainless brake kit.
- Drilled/slotted rear rotors.
- Slee rear locker cover/guard.
- Bunch of new seals and hydraulic struts.
- HPD front mount intercooler. It works with the factory air conditioning and keeps the EGTs down. Highly recommended on this engine. Also have their billet oil catch can. $1500
- Gturbo Bad Boy Extreme. I believe this was $2k and cost another $600 or so to install.
- 3” exhaust from the turbo to the tailpipe. Pipe is tucked up close and out of the way.
- Webasto diesel powered coolant heater. Really cool in the winter if you have one. It’s plumbed to the diesel tank and can be set on a timer or fired up prior to turning the engine over. The remote or board needs replaced, which I’ll try to do before sale.
- Gearing Dynamics Exhaust Brake. Super simple and cool system for off road use. When you’re on trails, you won’t believe how much control this gives.
- 315/75r16 Goodyear MTR Kevlar walled tires. Maybe 10k miles on them.
- Coolant filter.
- Again, working factory lockers and CDL. Slee locker protector on rear. Wish I had this on my other 80 once upon a time.
- Oil bypass filter system.
- Racor R60 diesel fuel filter. Has heating bowl element if you need that. Easy drain setup too.
- Walbro lift pump for the diesel to the engine. Never needed to, but the R60 allows you to self-prime if you need to.
- JDM VX door trim and emblems.
- JDM Monsoon windows all around and above the moon roof.
- Safari Snorkel and two toppers for different weather/locations.
- JDM lighting.
- JDM washers for the lights.
- Two new batteries.
- New Toyota radiator ($1000 installed).
- Low coolant sensor with alarm in cabin.
- New windshield & seal with lifetime warranty from Safelite.
- Items I've forgotten (updated 2/26/2020):
- Transmission temp sensor wired to both external gauge and factory light.
- Wholesale Automatics transmission cooler.
- A/C inspected 2/25/2020 and is cold. No leaks.
Interior:
- JDM overhead console/altimeter.
- JDM passenger grab bar.
- JDM center console fridge with ice tray.
- George’s LED lights in all three rows.
- Air conditioning, heat, gauges, and everything else works like a factory rig should. (Gauge bounces sometimes and I’ll try to fix)
- Exhaust, transmission, and boost gauges.
- Center lock differential button.
- Fog light button for the lights of your choice.
- Heated seats. They heat fast and better than the Slee ones I have.
- Fresh front leather seats. With the heated seats, this costs me roughly $1500. Don’t laugh.
- Cup holders (rover and JDM)
- Third row seating and spare set of third row seats.
- Tire locks.
- Factory stereo with AUX input. If you’re an audio geek, I’d recommend a new system. Was on my list.
- Passenger side laptop mount (not installed)
- A bunch of spare and uninstalled parts.I have probably $10k of spare parts or upgrades that come with my asking price. Everything from the H151F to spare headlights, factory turbo, torque converter, gauges, external cooler kit, seals, engine parts, timing belts, brake pads, gauge clusters, gauges, shift console, and more.
- It’s the first time I’ve sold a cruiser in a long time (sold my 60 years ago), so I’m sure I’m missing a few things and there will be questions. Don’t hesitate to ask and I’ll try to keep on top of the thread.
- My asking price with everything as it stands is $39k, which is a reflection of the LHD, owner and mechanical history, and he fact that this represents one of the most solid 80 series I’ve seen listed. You couldn’t build this at anywhere near my asking price, and it is more or less a new cruiser in a lot of aspects.
- The only trade I would consider (+- cash) is a Toyota Hiace or Sprinter RV.
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