Builds 1994 1hz 80 series ZOMBIE

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also...ran into my previous 60 series...which i only owned a few months and had to sell to cover a budget crisis. i miss it very much....was my first cruiser, but didnt do much myself at the time...except enjoy driving it...aussie shocks, 12HDT engine and 5ton warn winch
lc.webp


btw...the background is the 'landcruiser' area in in the industrial area Khartoum
 
main lessons learned....

1- relays : NEVER EVER EVER does a relays switch go directly to earth (kinda dumb, but i did actually do that)
2- lights : ALL lights are wired to have the positive direct to them and the negative where the switch that turns them on is
3- ground : Ground (negative battery) should connect to all three, Engine, Chassis and Body...leaving any of them out causes either things NOT working, overheating or very poor or flickering function.
4- earthing : whenever an earth wire is required, make sure it can handle EVERYTHING that uses that earth. E.g. Headlights require an earth wire capable of handling tail switch, headlights and Beam lights. not having them on does NOT mean reduce the earth wire gauge size.
5- wire length : to get the most out of your wires, set them up as if they were connected (use duct tape to temporarily secure them along their paths. then ADD an inch or two for stripping, crimping or just simple errors.
6- labeling : if ur like me and cant get the actual wire colours, use a colour code you understand...and STICK to it....then add small labels at BOTH ends of the wire indicating where they come from or go to...also stick to that method.
7- DONT wrap your wires until you complete the WHOLE testing....believe me....i learned this the hard way....almost 10 rolls of electrical tape later....when i did finally complete the main and interior, i ended up only using about 3.

hope this helps
 
I believe number 4 covers the inside of the mechanism that opes your gas filler door
 
I think a couple of those pieces are for holding down the tool kit in the rear storage hatch, but not 100% sure. Also, may be a bent battery hold-down bar on the far right?
 
i think 1, 2 and 3 go somewhere under the dash....number 3 is not long enough for battery hold down. im guessing number 2 fits somewhere around the ignition key maybe???

thanx guys for the help....im not even sure they fit in the cruiser....these were some of the 'parts' i found in the old fridge when i got the car.
 
I think you're right. #1 Looks like the bracket that goes right under the lower lip of the dash (near your outside facing knee) that attaches it to the side of the cab the other piece does look like it goes around the ignition, but I don't remember seeing a metal piece around mine when I had the dash out recently.

These are all guesses, but I think you're in the right neighborhood.
 
One other possibility that comes to mind is parts of the front bumper mounting hardware. Is yours all in tact? I know I've seen a couple these before, but can't pinpoint exactly where.
 
just got back....thanx for the help @Mandito22 and @Aggiesdm .... will look into them once i finish the rest of my interior wiring.. i wanted to know where they fit before i spray paint them...will do the jigsaw part once the car is fully running.

thanx again
 
I've cut a lot of dashes up in cars and that looks exactly like the kind of metal bits you find under there. Always stamped, always has a patina of rust over somewhat silvery metal. If you aren't having an issue with something back there then they may be worth leaving out.
 
Hey Moe! Your #2 on the lights wiring. Typically you switch the HOT and wire the ground direct. What drove you to switch the ground?
 
got the front interior roof wiring done...this includes the mod to light the rear hatch on any door open (when on door switch)
1- COmpass and altimeter
2- map light
3- sunroof control relay and switches (this btw is the main reason i started this whole project...makes my kids enjoy every trip)
4- room light
5- rear hatch light mod.

working now on rigging up the door open switches....just need to find enough of a single wire colour :(
 
Hey Moe! Your #2 on the lights wiring. Typically you switch the HOT and wire the ground direct. What drove you to switch the ground?

can u explain a bit more please...
 
when i connected the lights and grounding them locally....then used the relay to switch them on....they kept just either coming on (without the switch turned) or overheating to the extent i burnt 2 bulbs....the FSM indicates that the toyota cars are all negative switched as i recall...when i switch to negative switching....it worked...no heating at ALL....could this be the "MOE" way...???
 
also...the typical lights switch has a Headlight circuit open switch (once you turn on the tail lights A13 and A14)....tried to omit that and connect directly A12 and A3 to switch on the headlight and beam relays respectively....wouldnt work the flasher and would turn of the headlights if i switch to beam....believe me.....i know you have been watching this thread for almost 3 months now...i have learned and tried almost everything.
 
@scottryana . @Boltripper @BILT4ME ....advice please.....would the braided hose work to house the wiring for the fuel solenoid, water temp and oil pressure sensors on the engine block...im running them under the air intake....and can I connect the hoses (1/4" and 1/8") with electric tape?
 
finally....finished all my wiring (even the door courtesy lights, center console wiring, aftermarket alarm and GPS tracker)....will clean up, wrap up and final crimp everything (yep, been saving those sets Scott and John sent) and upload images.....this was truly a learning experience...wouldn't have been possible without the help i received here on mud...
 

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