1993 1FZ-Fe Will not Start or Crank when HOT

[offroadvegan]

I was taking the fam to the Alvord desert this weekend, and stopped to get gas a couple hours in. The rig felt hot inside, but with an RTT, camping gear and 2 adults/3 kiddos, I figured it was just working hard.

We stopped in Madras for gas and I filled it. Went to turn the key and click. Dash lights, that's it. Clicking (relays I assume) under hood, but not the 'click, click, click' of the starter. Battery was bad (per les schwab) so we replaced it. Started right up in the bay, crisis averted.

Went in to pay, came out, and no start.

Long story short, once it cools down, starts up perfect.

I did some googling and didn't find anything comprehensive. I am thinking starter relay or EFI relay. Any other ideas???

Thanks!!!

PS. As part of my rebuild, I replaced EVERYTHING - new alt, new starter, etc etc.

 

[pknaud99]

sounds like starter

 

[Desert Dino]

if it will happen again take a long pol wood maybe ask someone to turn the key meany times and you simultaneous hit the starter if itll start its the starter

 

[offroadvegan]

Even though the starter is literally brand new?

 

[jonheld]

I am thinking starter relay or EFI relay. Any other ideas???

There is no "starter relay" and the EFI circuit has nothing to do with the starter circuit.
FWIW, I had 2 Toyota rebuilt starters that were bad out of the red box.
If it's only an issue when hot, I would suspect the starter or poor connections.

 

[Irish Reiver]

When I had the exact same symptoms it was the starter. New one from Denso and haven't looked back since...

 

[Soarer479]

I had a similar issue truck would only not start when warm. Turned out to be a bad coolant sensor in the head. Not the one towards the front of the motor that controls the temp gauge but the other one closer to the firewall . I had a thread on here about it I'm sure you can find.

 

[jonheld]

I had a similar issue truck would only not start when warm. Turned out to be a bad coolant sensor in the head. Not the one towards the front of the motor that controls the temp gauge but the other one closer to the firewall . I had a thread on here about it I'm sure you can find.

There is no "sensor" that will prevent the starter motor from cranking. The OP states that the starter was not cranking the motor. That is different from a "crank-no start".

 

[btslaser]

Same thing happened to me last summer on a trip to CO. At one stop I replaced the battery terminals and things seemed to be better but it happened again on the way home. When I got back I purchased a new OEM starter (old one was a Bosch), fusible link, heavy gauge battery cables, and military style battery terminals. Haven't installed them yet but hoping this will kill it dead.

 

[ZackR]

Does it start after hitting the starter with a wrench? if so then that's your issue. I've heard that new starters can have issues right out of the box....

 

[offroadvegan]

Well I didnt try hitting it, but will tonight. I did order a new fusible link and block from wits end this am....

 

[ZackR]

When my old starter died a few years ago I looked on the forum and read about the wrench trick. It saved me from having to replace the starter in a parking lot.

 

[offroadvegan]

Spoke to my dad who is a manager at an Oreilleys in VT (dad spent his life in auto parts) he thinks I was sold the wrong starter (a 1.4kw unit) versus the 2.0 or 2.2 units available. He then said the solenoid is probably heating up and causing the no crank, no start issue.

Thoughts..

 

[george_tlc]

1.4/2/2.2 is not the issue if it doesn't crank. Is this a denso (reman) etc that you installed 'new' or some generic starter?

I presume you have checked battery terminal connections are SOLID, especially the heavy +ve cable that runs direct from the battery to the starter?

No crank (solenoid not engaging) is typically a solenoid problem in my experience. Could be other stuff like neutral switch.

You could wire a remote lead to the starter solenoid +ve (not the motor +ve, but the solenoid +ve). Then tap that remote lead to the +ve of the battery, solenoid should clunk and starter should spin. If it doesn't when hot (same problem you are having with the ignition key), then you know it's the solenoid that has a problem.

cheers,
george.

 

[ZackR]

Spoke to my dad who is a manager at an Oreilleys in VT (dad spent his life in auto parts) he thinks I was sold the wrong starter (a 1.4kw unit) versus the 2.0 or 2.2 units available. He then said the solenoid is probably heating up and causing the no crank, no start issue.

Thoughts..

The starter output won't matter in this scenario. I have the little 1.4kw on mine and it starts fine at -20F. Next time I'll get a higher output one but when I replaced it I wasn't aware of the options.

 

[offroadvegan]

Hey George! Only option at the time was an "import direct" from Oreilley's, a reman unit. All connections seem tight, I ordered a new fusible link, and the starter I bought has a lifetime warranty, so I can swap that out too.

 

[jonheld]

Hey George! Only option at the time was an "import direct" from Oreilley's, a reman unit. All connections seem tight, I ordered a new fusible link, and the starter I bought has a lifetime warranty, so I can swap that out too.

Likely the solenoid contacts/plunger.
Even the Toyota reman units I purchased had used plungers with a pitted contact ring, the side contacts were put in crooked, and the plunger bore was filthy and full of old grease and crap. I had to rebuild the rebuilt units. Luckily I had all the parts on hand.

 

[offroadvegan]

Likely the solenoid contacts/plunger.
Even the Toyota reman units I purchased had used plungers with a pitted contact ring, the side contacts were put in crooked, and the plunger bore was filthy and full of old grease and crap. I had to rebuild the rebuilt units. Luckily I had all the parts on hand.

That is crazy! I am pulling the unit out tonight and will put a new one in tomorrow. Any gotchas on this swap? Never done a starter before, I had the shop that rebuilt the engine install it.

 

[george_tlc]

DISCONNECT THE BATTERY POSITIVE before you start.

One bolt for the starter from the engine side. Second bolt from the transmission side. Couple of wires to disconnect.

It's an easy job. Here's my write up from many moons ago.

Starter Motor Contacts

cheers,
george.

 

[GreekFJ80]

thanks George!

and thank you also for your informative website!
Just read some more nice write ups. I appreciate the time you took to publish them.