Builds 1990 FJ62 5.3 and H55 (1 Viewer)

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Small things to keep it pushing...

New dome lens

Radio brackets and new window master switch on the way

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No pics, but swapped in some 62 seats to replace the ill fitting TJ seats that were swapped in (that need foam and recovering....some day), new rear upper shock mount with cheap pro comp shocks, a radio (cheap Kenwood double DIN) and front speakers, and new u joints in the rear driveshaft. That got rid of most of the serious vibration I was getting around 30 mph.

Thinking I need a new brake booster....so researching the common swaps for that.
 
No pics, but swapped in some 62 seats to replace the ill fitting TJ seats that were swapped in (that need foam and recovering....some day), new rear upper shock mount with cheap pro comp shocks, a radio (cheap Kenwood double DIN) and front speakers, and new u joints in the rear driveshaft. That got rid of most of the serious vibration I was getting around 30 mph.

Thinking I need a new brake booster....so researching the common swaps for that.

Just checked out your slowswerve, quicky FJ80 cameo in the McLaren vid...👍
 
Thinking I need a new brake booster....so researching the common swaps for that.

I've been happy with this one from City Racer but rest of my brakes are stock.


I read most of the threads out there before I bought and my take away is to treat it like the system as-designed. While a new booster (or other brake parts) of any kind will feel better than worn out junk, I'd only use parts from a tundra/tacoma/4runner/T100 if I was changing them all out to match.
 
Also, the fill plug on the T case is stripped.....anyone have a good fix for that?

If you haven't dealt with this yet, you could drill and tap for a 1/2" NPT plug. Grease up the drill bit and tap when doing so chips don't drop in the transfer case.
 
So pretty sure I need a new brake booster. Been searching and reading. Any reason to not go with a non-abs 1994 4runner booster? I read its the same bolt pattern, and only possibly may need to be rotatated for some reason? Which would necessitate a longer vacuum hose, which is no issue. I hear the non abs FZJ80 of the same year is the same part? Napa has some for decent price.
 
I have a 4runner booster on my truck, not sure what year its from (bought it new from Rock Auto), I'm not aware of any negatives off hand.
 
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Ordered a FJ62 specific city racer booster and new master cylinder.
Am having an issue with the passenger side caliper sticking.....took off wheel to investigate and noticed that there was no pad left and the rotor was gouged heavily. Weird, as there was no odd noises and it still stopped ok-ish.
So new rotors and pads on the way too.
Knuckle rebuild and brake system work this coming weekend.....
 
Got the city racer booster and generic master cylinder installed. I've been noticing that my passenger side front brake was sticking a bit...so decided to investigate. Rotor has a 1/32 gouge all the way around.
Needlesss to say....new rotors, calipers, and birf cleanup with new seals is now happening.

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Eeek! That brake is rough looking, good call replacing everything.

Just did new F & R pads on my Tundra this weekend...that thing is a dream to work on compared to the cruiser.
 
Yea....its stops better now.

Now I'm battling a rear driveline vibration. When I first got the truck, there was a rattle your teeth vibration from 25-35 mph while accelerating or cruising that got a bit better when I let off the gas. Also, when letting off the gas at higher speeds but keeping it in gear, there was a bad rattle/vibration that went away for the most part if I would shift into neutral while still rolling.
So I had a shop put new u joints in and balance the shaft. Its a good bit better, however the vibration is still there, but at a higher frequency. Its there around 30 mph and 60mph +

I have a OME lift on it, all looks good and tight, and no play in either the output shaft of the trans (H55) or at the rear axle pinion. I was thinking the rear pinion wasn't at the correct angle, but I've never heard of anyone having to use shims with the normal OME lift. The truck sits level.
Has anyone experienced anything similar with a lift? What was the rememdy?
The vibes do get a bit better when off the throttle/trans in neutral but still rolling.
 
Within 3,000 miles of lifting my truck from stock, my rear driveshaft died. U joints went out.

The combination of a worn out split case with 300,000 miles and a radically different pinion angle from the lift killed it. It was so bad that the bolts were coming loose.

All of the conditions were the same as yours. I could turn it on and off with the clutch. Rebuild of the the driveshaft has been done, check your rear output shaft flange of the t case. If you can wobble it at all up and down, it’s starting to go.
 
I have shims in the rear of my 62. It has ome heavy front and rear with shackle reversal in front and the rear has the long anti inversion shackles in the rear. When i first got it it didn't and the rear drive shaft was all the way collapsed and pointing straight at the tcase so added the shims to match the angle of the tcase also making the drive shaft able to have travel.
Tommy
 
I've installed an OEM set. I had to completely rebuild them but they turned out well. Everything I've read about the SOR variant was that they are straight glass and that leads to issues. OEM has curved glass. I have no personal experience with the SOR product.

These folks have the OEM version on their site.
 
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