Builds 1990 FJ62 5.3 and H55 (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Apr 26, 2010
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5,200
Location
Raleigh, NC
Picked up this 1990 FJ62 3 weeks ago that was converted to a 5.3 and H55 , using new parts, by Iron Pig Offroad about 7 years ago. At the same time, an OME lift was installed. Snorkle and electric fans too. Previous owner said he put about 30k miles on it, with 315k miles on the body. Seems to be in overall good health.
Has a Man A Fre rear bumper and ARB front bumper.

So far I've changed all the fluids and made a to do list. It's quite odd to drive a wagon that will push you back in the seat.

First things:
Tires (33x10.5....it has 31x10.5 installed now)
Spare wheel/tire
Re-do the birfs
Seats
Normal full sized air intake
Investigate why it pulls under braking
Radio (no radio installed at the moment)
Get the tach working. Is it common to utilize the factory tach with 5.3 conversions? The PO said the tach used to work, but who knows. Anything specific I can check for this?

Then:
body work

It has a few warts, most notable a dented rear hatch and tailgate, and odd serious rust spots in the front of the hood and on the top of the PS front fender.

What I'm starting with

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The rust in the pix looks like it was caused by the vehicle being parked outside in the rain. After you fix and repaint, park that sucker inside. Great looking truck with a killer drive train.

If you fix (rather than replace) those doors, be sure to shoot a bunch of grease into the bottoms of the doors to prevent a return of the rust. Aerosol Lithium grease (of the sort used on door hinges/latches) is great for this. It penetrates, and then sticks around.
 
Definitely needs 33s. I may have some parts here soon once i figure out what all i need off a fj62 here to repair an fj60 i am working on ie. Rear hatch and tail gate maybe a door or two.
Tommy
 
I was in the exact same boat a few years ago, welcome to the insanity :hillbilly:

+1 to shooting grease in the doors and to check behind the rubber on all of them.

my rig lives deep in the rust belt, and it’s driven all winter in said conditions - with proper care and prep you can avoid it almost entirely.

check your roof gutters for lifting, and in addition to that sticking a hand down inside your rear quarters to ensure theres no standing water. (The trucks have built in plugs that get clogged and this moisture rusts them from the inside out)

Enjoy the swap - it’s ****ing AWSOME and after putting close to 100k on mine it never gets old.

DA9BB251-364F-4359-9F82-3A1662C2B392.jpeg
 
Picked up this 1990 FJ62 3 weeks ago that was converted to a 5.3 and H55 , using new parts, by Iron Pig Offroad about 7 years ago. At the same time, an OME lift was installed. Snorkle and electric fans too. Previous owner said he put about 30k miles on it, with 315k miles on the body. Seems to be in overall good health.
Has a Man A Fre rear bumper and ARB front bumper.

So far I've changed all the fluids and made a to do list. It's quite odd to drive a wagon that will push you back in the seat.

First things:
Tires (33x10.5....it has 31x10.5 installed now)
Spare wheel/tire
Re-do the birfs
Seats
Normal full sized air intake
Investigate why it pulls under braking
Radio (no radio installed at the moment)
Get the tach working. Is it common to utilize the factory tach with 5.3 conversions? The PO said the tach used to work, but who knows. Anything specific I can check for this?

Then:
body work

It has a few warts, most notable a dented rear hatch and tailgate, and odd serious rust spots in the front of the hood and on the top of the PS front fender.

What I'm starting with

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View attachment 2124548
Where is the computer mounted?
 
Its on the center of the firewall, not sure why they did it that way vs. the fender. You can see the protective cover in the engine pic, with the Iron Pig sticker on it.

However, it does have less wiring than the other LS swaps I've seen. It was a brand new engine from Turn Key, and was programmed for just the minimum to run. No O2 sensors for example. Good or bad, not sure yet. There is a cat and muffler on it though, even though I don't have to worry about emissions testing here for cars/light trucks older than 1996.
 
Guys, please stop. I am really trying to stay all Toyota

:hillbilly::hillbilly::beer:
 
bingo - both the OP’s build and my build came with these engines previously. Mine definitely required a lot of love afterwards
I use Brian's engines also but i deal with him personally great guy knows his stuff. Thats how most swaps go its like people are in some type of race to get it running and everything after that falls short and or unfinished
Sorry @onemanarmy not trying to clog up your thread hit me up if you need anything i am a few hours away.
Tommy
 
No O2 sensors. I thought it was weird too.

So y'all recommend installing sensors and retuning? Would I notice a difference that is worthy of the effort and cost?

I'm assuming it won't run the best it can without the sensors, but I've never dealt with this setup before.
 
I was just saying its weird if your engine came from Brian and he did the tune i am sure its fine. Whats also weird Brian doesn't sell brand new engines also doesn't sell transmissions at all i can also see you have a mass air flow sensor Brian deletes that as well. Does the engine stall at all when you push the clutch in and turn into a driveway or a scenario like that?
You can run the factory tach but an aftermarket one can be installed if yours is broken.
Tommy
 
I find it odd that it can run properly without O2 sensors. They are not part of emissions, but for tuning mixture. They can tell the computer what the mixture is to keep it optimal. At least that is what I thought they did.....
 
I find it odd that it can run properly without O2 sensors. They are not part of emissions, but for tuning mixture. They can tell the computer what the mixture is to keep it optimal. At least that is what I thought they did.....

bingo - that’s why I made it a point to wire them up. At altitude - you want the A/F mix to be correct
 

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