Builds 1989 FJ62 Refresh - Update Build

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Saturday, I got the other 3/4's of the job done in the same amount of time as the first 1/4. I did all the wrenching while the wife worked the jack (insert joke here ... LOL). It was wild how quick it went. Then today, I installed the shocks, sway bar bushings, and torqued the shackles to spec. I'll grease all the shackles tomorrow.

For now, the steering stabilizer is staying in place and soaking, because it doesn't want to budge. If anyone has a recommendation, let me know!

So I don't get any more crap from @cruiseroutfit , here are some pics !! I'm going to estimate that the shackles added about 1/2" over the old shackles (maybe original, but not sure). The old shackles were so freaking corroded and nasty.

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I don't think I shared this yet, but got the front end all freshened up. New turn signals, corner markers, and side markers. I also added the euro-spec side mirrors. Looks great.

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Saturday, I got the other 3/4's of the job done in the same amount of time as the first 1/4. I did all the wrenching while the wife worked the jack (insert joke here ... LOL). It was wild how quick it went. Then today, I installed the shocks, sway bar bushings, and torqued the shackles to spec. I'll grease all the shackles tomorrow.

For now, the steering stabilizer is staying in place and soaking, because it doesn't want to budge. If anyone has a recommendation, let me know!

So I don't get any more crap from @cruiseroutfit , here are some pics !! I'm going to estimate that the shackles added about 1/2" over the old shackles (maybe original, but not sure). The old shackles were so freaking corroded and nasty.

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Are your front and rear springs different ages? May have missed it.
The shackle angles are so different.
 
Are your front and rear springs different ages? May have missed it.
The shackle angles are so different.
I have no idea. They were already on there when I bought it. I’ll be interested to see what they look like after they’re both loaded with grease and we take a quick test drive.
 
Tonight I lubed up the shackles and went for a quick spin around the neighborhood. Drove great on the fresh (greased) bushings and fresh Nitrocharger shocks.

After the test drive, I went to try and get the stabilizer off and ran across a little coolant on the tie rod. I went looking and I definitely have coolant coming from the thermostat housing.

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I’m assuming I’ll need a fresh hose clamp at a minimum and will likely change the hose. Anything else I should be looking at when I do this?

I also see a second spot, from one of the hoses coming off the water pump. Not sure if just residual or an actual issue. Any thoughts?

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Also wanted to share a picture of my “dual battery” set up. The second isn’t hooked up, but it’s in there. Lol

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Also thought I would share a pic of it all lit up. I love these LED headlights.

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Started removing the carpet tonight. I've had my @dnp kit sitting around for a couple of weeks now. Getting everything out was obviously pretty easy. I had done some peeking and thought a PO had removed the jute, but no such luck. So, I got everything I could by hand and will start scraping and scrubbing this week and into the weekend.

Once removed, I will apply sound-damper and MLV over the old stuff. I do not intend to remove it. I want to quiet the truck down, but don't have the time to go get dry ice and go through that process.

I'll post up more pics when I get into the process.
 
Also got my seat belts back from seat belt planet. Anyone thinking about doing it, I would. They’re great to work with and did great work. I really appreciate that they installed the new sleeves I ordered and custom cut them to fit.

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Not sure if you've poked through my build thread but I took a similar approach when redoing my truck a couple years ago. I'll also be at the Monthly ONSC meeting with the 60 next Wednesday. You should come out!

For the factory sound deadening, as long as it's not flaking off or compromised, it's fine to go over it with the new stuff. If it is compromised, I highly recommend doing the dry ice treatment to remove it. It doesn't take long and ensure you get the sound deadening results you want. If it continues to lift and creates an air pocket, that'll cancel out your work to some extent.

For the cooling hoses, if you don't know the condition of them, I'd go ahead and do the entire cooling system with new hoses and clamps at a minimum with the obvious things like thermostat, WP, etc. If you're going to partially drain and bleed the system to replace that one hose, may as well do them all at once. I did this on my truck and it's paid off. Just drove to CO and back and no issues with the cooling system even in the 100*+ heat at full throttle for hours on end.

I've been looking at SBP for my belts. I need to do that on my truck.
 
Not sure if you've poked through my build thread but I took a similar approach when redoing my truck a couple years ago. I'll also be at the Monthly ONSC meeting with the 60 next Wednesday. You should come out!

For the factory sound deadening, as long as it's not flaking off or compromised, it's fine to go over it with the new stuff. If it is compromised, I highly recommend doing the dry ice treatment to remove it. It doesn't take long and ensure you get the sound deadening results you want. If it continues to lift and creates an air pocket, that'll cancel out your work to some extent.

For the cooling hoses, if you don't know the condition of them, I'd go ahead and do the entire cooling system with new hoses and clamps at a minimum with the obvious things like thermostat, WP, etc. If you're going to partially drain and bleed the system to replace that one hose, may as well do them all at once. I did this on my truck and it's paid off. Just drove to CO and back and no issues with the cooling system even in the 100*+ heat at full throttle for hours on end.

I've been looking at SBP for my belts. I need to do that on my truck.
Thanks for sharing. I'll check out your build thread tonight.

Right now, the sound deadening looks ok, but I won't really know till I get everything clean up. Depending on the situation, I may have to go with the dry ice. Even if it's not lifting now, it might down the road and will basically make it a waste of time and energy.

To replace those small hoses, do I need to drain the entire system? I've been looking at all the hoses. Most look like they're in really good condition, but there's a couple (ones that look like they're hard to get to) that probably need to replaced. I'd really like to avoid replacing the WP at this point, but could definitely make sense to drain and flush the system along with hose replacements.

I'll have to look at my calendar, but I might be able to make the meeting. If not, it might be worth the drive out to Durham to see what all you've done.
 
Depending on how well the system is bled, you may need to drain some out to change those hoses. My mentality is if I’m going to drain the system and get into it, I may as well do it all so I don’t have to think about it again for the foreseeable future. Again, just my approach, especially with my truck having not been used often for the 10 years prior to my purchase.

I don't know how all of your cooling system hoses look up close but if you have doubt on one, I'd have doubt on all. You can definitely get my with changing that hose and associated clamps, but don’t be surprised if you have to then drain and replace another hose, then another, then another.

Happy to have you come by anytime. Pm me if you want and we can coordinate.
 
Started cleaning jute off the floors this evening. I just wanted to test some methods before going all in on one.

I used a dog brushing glove to get as much loose jute off as possible. This was actually effective, but just too slow. Then I pulled out my Restorer tool (great tool if you've never used one) and it really did well for the bulk of the jute.

To get stuck on jute, I started with Simple Green, a little water, and a wire brush. This did well, but created a mess. I went to the other side and sprayed on some Goof-Off, let it sit for a few minutes, and wiped it off. Goof-Off was/is the way to go. After sitting for about 30 seconds, it just wiped right off.

So, my current plan is the Restorer to get the bulk, move on to Goof-Off, and do the final clean with Simple Green. After that, it will be time for sound deadening.
 
Did some testing with refinishing my trim pieces. Used the SEM adhesion promoter and a couple of light coats of SEM graphite. Hard to see in the pics, but made a huge difference.

The respirated one is on the bottom of both pics.

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This literally melts the old adhesive off in front of your eyes. I used it on all of the residue from where my factory insulation was compromised. Dry ice got the intact pieces off no problem. Goof off may have a similar effect but this stuff was gold. I used it when I detailed for years.

Stoner Tarminator - Tar and Sap Remover

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This literally melts the old adhesive off in front of your eyes. I used it on all of the residue from where my factory insulation was compromised. Dry ice got the intact pieces off no problem. Goof off may have a similar effect but this stuff was gold. I used it when I detailed for years.

Stoner Tarminator - Tar and Sap Remover

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Wow...
 

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