1989 4Runner R150F Rebuild

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Survived another road trip, this time to Yellowstone and the Grand Tetons!

I hit 275,000 miles on the way back in the town of Smoot Wyoming, just as it was starting to snow. Snow?! In October?! Sorcery! (yes, I am from California...)
Highway 89 from Jackson to Brigham City is a gorgeous drive.
I then hit 276,000 just before I rolled into the driveway.

After getting back, I replaced the transmission oil one last time. No issues, I am just being paranoid and want to make sure it's thoroughly flushed out.

It was also time for the timing belt, so new water pump, idlers, cap'n'rotor, plugs, wires, etc. I also decided to get some fresh injectors. I opted for an upgrade from Precision Auto Injectors. The fit was perfect and they sent me a hand written thank you note along with the injectors. I'll try to get it back on the dyno soon for the results!

It had been a bit since the last tuneup...

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It idles super smooth now and is noticeably quieter. It feels smoother revving up and letting off. I even had to turn the idle screw almost all of the way in. I'm guessing it needs less fuel at idle due to the better atomization from the fancy injectors.

Buuuuuuut...

None of this translates to more power. With 276k on the clock there probably is a bit of blow-by preventing any gains...
...maybe I'll build a new 3vz when I'm done building my Land Cruiser...

Time will tell if there is any fuel mileage gains. I have a smog check coming up early next year, so we'll see if there is any difference in emissions as well.
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Back in May:
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I'm going from a g52 trans ! what are the electronics on the r150f? What will I need to run those electronics? Thanks in advance
 
Reverse switch. That's it.
 
Does anyone by chance have a part number for the OEM input shaft for the 3.0 r150f transmission?
Thanks ahead of time
 

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33301-35050. It won't do you any good. It's discontinued. But, check Amayama.com. They show it's available in Japan ... but don't get your hopes up.
 
Up to 280,000 miles. 3rd gear, and only 3rd gear, has developed a sort of knocking noise. 3rd can also be notchy if I shift too fast.

There are no bearings that are only spinning in third gear. Could this be the 3rd/4th selector ring rubbing on the countershaft 3rd gear teeth? Something else?
 
I put the transfer case in neutral, and ran through all of the gears while parked. The noise also occurs in 2nd, but none of the other gears. It increases in frequency with increased RPM.
 
I've had issues with both of my professionally rebuilt transmissions from two different shops. The one I took out of a rusted gambler 500 92 4 runner got me the most miles before issues developed, some 2xx,xxx miles on that donor rig when I removed it.

I'm willing to bet it's the Chinese replacement parts as I don't believe aisin or Toyota offers much support for these other than synchros. Aisin does still make it in the ax15 version. I had advanced contact them to see if one could be made in r150f form or at least purchase parts from them to make it work with the yota transfer case and bell housing but it was a no go.

I'll be interested in seeing what you find when it's split.

Right now my only issue is a stubborn 1st gear. Usually only after warm. Changing to Valvoline synchromesh has mostly gotten rid of it but it comes back when it's most inconvenient.

I have a feeling I need to get a press and proper sizes pullers so I can start going into these myself.
 
3rd gear has three broken teeth. Two on one side, and one on the opposite side. The are all adjacent to an oil ports.
3rd and 1st gear are the only ones that were reused in the initial rebuild, and 1st has much thicker teeth. With 280,000 miles, could this just be age related, abuse, contamination or rebuild assembly error?

Everything else seemed to look OK. Some of the bearings did have a little slop.

Apart from 3rd gear and the components in the rebuild kit, what else should I replace this time around?

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Is there a reusability guide in a Toyota manual?
Sorry, I only built a couple Toyota transmissions. Lots of Caterpillar stuff and they had reusability guidelines. Basically a visual inspection of teeth and bearing surfaces. Measurement specs for applicable parts.

If it was mine, I would clean and dry the parts so I could do a good visible inspection of all the gear teeth and any bearing surfaces. Good light and even a jeweler's loupe or magnifying glass so you can see any rippling, frosting or spalling down in the gear teeth. Look up parts tolerances and measure to see if in spec. After all that metal in the oil, I'd run all new bearings. Call Marlin's shop (or other experts) with questions? Marlin's upgraded parts? I used them on my build.

Take your time and be thorough. Find another trans(s) if you have to. Use the best parts. Good luck. I'm looking forward to your rebuild.
 
If you have it far enough apart To remove the gears I’d either magnaflux them or do some dye penetrant on the other gears to check for cracking.
 
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How do the fingers look under the shift fork collar on the shifter hub?

The only gear wear guide I've seen on these transmissions focus on the shape of the teeth where the synchros, gears and shift hubs align, simply a visual inspection of any teeth being rounded.

The other is using a feeler gauge on the gap between each synchro and their gear.

The only tolerance specs I could find were googling them for an ax15.

Took a bit of searching but this has specs for everything down to thickness of the snap rings and spacers.

 
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All torn down. 2nd and 3rd are cooked, both gears significantly darker than the rest.
I probably did the damage when I was trying to get it to stay in 4th gear before the second tear down. In frustration I had slammed it back and forth between 3rd and 4th repeatedly. 4th died soon after, 3rd took awhile longer apparently... In retrospect, I should have torn it down completely the second time I had it apart.

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During the first rebuild, it was peak covid supply chain baloney, so parts selection was limited. The countershaft and second were 'budget' unfortunately. They haven't grenaded, but are suspect. Where the countershaft contacts the bearing in the main plate, the surface finish is turned, not ground like the OEM shaft.
Sanity has somewhat returned, and parts selection is not so limited.

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The 1st/2nd hub also has some noticeble wear where it contacts 1st gear. There is a step where there was once a ground surface. The surface on 1st gear doesn't seem to show any wear and still looks smooth and ground.

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So, new 2nd gear, 3rd gear, new countershaft, new No. 1 Clutch Hub on order.

I also made a bracket to mount the main plate in my vice. It was always a struggle to get the assembly to sit right in the vice... until now!

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Where are you sourcing all your internal parts?
 
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