Yeah, thanks. Excellent point - I remembered that just before you posted.
That leaves paying through the nose for short-supply parts, repairing what you have, or MacGyvering a new solution.
Builds 1988 BJ74 “Number 1” (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter FJBen
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That leaves paying through the nose for short-supply parts, repairing what you have, or MacGyvering a new solution.
FJBen
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- Thread starter
- #2,002
Yeah, thanks. Excellent point - I remembered that just before you posted.
That leaves paying through the nose for short-supply parts, repairing what you have, or MacGyvering a new solution.
Apparently there is a short and long version. Looks like that link is the long version. The bellhousing changed and they went to shorter i believe.
83180-60030 is the short version and seems to be NLA.
So used or repair…
I need to reword that before woody bans me
FJBen
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- Thread starter
- #2,004
Gauges and gauges!
Decided to add in another auber dual guage. I really need to make a mount for them, but for now…
I wired it up for voltage on top and temp on bottom.
left auber is: voltage, temp
Right auber: EGT, boost
Upon startup and idle for a few minutes. I noticed I have a decimal on the temp, need to see if I can remove that.
Rolling down the highway.
Idle after the highway.
Now for temp monitoring, I’m using just an RTD (resistance temperature detector) that bolts onto a thermostat housing bolt. Now is the accurate…not to the coolant…What it is accurate in is wild fluctuations of temp on the engine that the factory gauge won’t show until it’s stupid hot.
I’m not sure how close this is to actual water temp or if there is a better location to put it. It cools down on the highway, now is that fan causing it or ambient air. Once slowing down or stopped the temp rises.
I technically can buy a temp probe that goes in the coolant and actually see to compare, they are cheap enough.
The reason for this is the factory guage, and most in coolant probes, will not read the right temp if no coolant is on them. So loose your coolant, temp might read completely normal.
Driving 60ish was 140ish on the gauge.
Idle after driving was up to 160ish.
Decided to add in another auber dual guage. I really need to make a mount for them, but for now…
I wired it up for voltage on top and temp on bottom.
left auber is: voltage, temp
Right auber: EGT, boost
Upon startup and idle for a few minutes. I noticed I have a decimal on the temp, need to see if I can remove that.
Rolling down the highway.
Idle after the highway.
Now for temp monitoring, I’m using just an RTD (resistance temperature detector) that bolts onto a thermostat housing bolt. Now is the accurate…not to the coolant…What it is accurate in is wild fluctuations of temp on the engine that the factory gauge won’t show until it’s stupid hot.
I’m not sure how close this is to actual water temp or if there is a better location to put it. It cools down on the highway, now is that fan causing it or ambient air. Once slowing down or stopped the temp rises.
I technically can buy a temp probe that goes in the coolant and actually see to compare, they are cheap enough.
The reason for this is the factory guage, and most in coolant probes, will not read the right temp if no coolant is on them. So loose your coolant, temp might read completely normal.
Driving 60ish was 140ish on the gauge.
Idle after driving was up to 160ish.
PabloCruise
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At least you don't have temps like our friend @Laughingjackal
PabloCruise
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This was the day before the final Cars N Coffee, eh?
We need to do that run from Stove Prairie to Pingree Park Rd.
I can't wait to get the 40 back...
I've mounted my front mount where the radiator goes and shifted the radiator closer to the motor, this was easy because of the size of the factory shroud! Custom shroud to be made, more pics of complete set up to come
FJBen
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- Thread starter
- #2,009
View attachment 3481010
I've mounted my front mount where the radiator goes and shifted the radiator closer to the motor, this was easy because of the size of the factory shroud! Custom shroud to be made, more pics of complete set up to come
Awesome. That seems to be the best setup and thankfully there is room.
What size specs intercooler did you get? Have a link or info on that? I’ve got a line on an extra 3b shroud to modify.
Are you extending the radiator mounts that bolt on the body?
13B-T intercooler
forum.ih8mud.com
Nice and easy, no cutting of the body at all! Yeah fabbed some new mounts to shift the rad back ( will chuck up some pics once it's all assembled again.)
I also did away with the factory intake top and shut of valve and installed a stainless exhaust valve in place to use as shut off hence the stainless piping
FJBen
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- Thread starter
- #2,012
Well fixed my tachometer. Just dig into the epoxy, soldered the leads back on and it works.
Need to fully seal it up now that it works.
And of course when you get under your rig you find other areas of need….
Gonna need some new motor mounts.
Oil cooler seeping a little. This one is going to suck.
Also noticed the pushrod cover leaking in the back. I thought not having a 2f would save me from pushrod cover drama…
Need to fully seal it up now that it works.
And of course when you get under your rig you find other areas of need….
Gonna need some new motor mounts.
Oil cooler seeping a little. This one is going to suck.
Also noticed the pushrod cover leaking in the back. I thought not having a 2f would save me from pushrod cover drama…
I've just done the re solder on my sender hoping she works
FJBen
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- Thread starter
- #2,014
Nice and easy, no cutting of the body at all! Yeah fabbed some new mounts to shift the rad back ( will chuck up some pics once it's all assembled again.)
I also did away with the factory intake top and shut of valve and installed a stainless exhaust valve in place to use as shut off hence the stainless piping
View attachment 3484471
Looking good. That’s a slick setup at the intake.
Do you have a model or link to that intercooler?
Is that a stock ct26?
Ahh it's just an off the shelf 600x900 mate, I'll find a link with proper dimensions!
Stock ct26 for now looking at testing a ct12b off a kz asap
FJBen
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- Thread starter
- #2,016
It’s Winter again, haiku time
Why such Slow cranking
At least it’s not a 3B
Arizona, yes!
Remember I’m 12v.
Ok so it sat for a week in the hay shed, no door. Temps were near 0F and not above freezing for a few days. Went to start it Saturday. Slow crank.
My voltage gauge showed this. However today I went and checked at battery and I have 12.2. So my math in programming the auber is slightly off. 12.2 should be enough to start. Nope. Slow crank. Even jumping my 2 batteries didn’t change anything. (My 2nd battery is really old) tried 3 times, multiple glows 10 sec crank at most. It’s 26F and I’m still in the shade.
Brought the tundra over, hooked up jumper cables and less than 3 seconds of fast crank she fires up. This is how it used to start down to 0F on its own.
So my question is…what’s causing this?
Bad battery under load? Is it that simple?
Upon startup my alternator was reading 14.1v and after stopping batteries read 12.85.
Why such Slow cranking
At least it’s not a 3B
Arizona, yes!
Remember I’m 12v.
Ok so it sat for a week in the hay shed, no door. Temps were near 0F and not above freezing for a few days. Went to start it Saturday. Slow crank.
My voltage gauge showed this. However today I went and checked at battery and I have 12.2. So my math in programming the auber is slightly off. 12.2 should be enough to start. Nope. Slow crank. Even jumping my 2 batteries didn’t change anything. (My 2nd battery is really old) tried 3 times, multiple glows 10 sec crank at most. It’s 26F and I’m still in the shade.
Brought the tundra over, hooked up jumper cables and less than 3 seconds of fast crank she fires up. This is how it used to start down to 0F on its own.
So my question is…what’s causing this?
Bad battery under load? Is it that simple?
Upon startup my alternator was reading 14.1v and after stopping batteries read 12.85.
First, how old are the batteries? I have a similar issue, if I let it sit for more than a few days one of the batteries drops to below 10v. No tap on the system, I assume that I have a drain somewhere, my batteries are less than 3 years old, but that seems to be their limit.
I've found that if I just take the time to put a charger on the one battery, I've no issue starting it. That, or disconnect the battery.
Second, you have intermittent wipers and dimmable dash lights!?! Fancy.
Third, will that dual Auber gauge read both battery voltages instead of one voltage and one temp?
I've found that if I just take the time to put a charger on the one battery, I've no issue starting it. That, or disconnect the battery.
Second, you have intermittent wipers and dimmable dash lights!?! Fancy.
Third, will that dual Auber gauge read both battery voltages instead of one voltage and one temp?
FJBen
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- Thread starter
- #2,018
The main starting battery is from 11/21, so exactly 2 years old. Last year it crapped out but they charged it back up and said it’s good. It’s a replacement for the everstart max that died in 2 years before…I won’t be buying another Walmart battery.
My 2nd house battery is a red top everyone hates from 2015. Still kicking but I’m sure will be done anytime now.
I think I’ve figured out the correct math for my batteries on the auber gauge so I’m not entirely sure the gauge was right at all in my picture. The batteries were showing 12.2 directly before i started it this morning.
The auber will show dual voltage if you want or a bunch of other things.
I’m pulling power from the 70 series distribution block so that might not be accurate and honestly I’m not sure which battery it’s reading from. I would have to trace wires.
That’s my intermittent REAR wiper switch
. I’ve got front and rear intermittent. Talk about fancy. I should Probabaly load test at the store again and see what they say.
PabloCruise
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That feels like 1 step forward, 2 steps back!
For some reason I stopped getting alerts about your thread, even though I am still "Watching"...
