Builds 1988 BJ74 “Number 1”

[PabloCruise]

 

[FJBen]

@2fpower sent me some things and hooked me up with some cool things! Thanks and the ih8mud crew is awesome. Floor mats, a rear hinge and some UHMW.

Also in searching for pictures of BJ74s I came across this gem. I’m not sure which part is funnier, the auto trader imports stealing my picture or the BJ74 being a popular 4x4 powerhouse.

 

[PabloCruise]

@2fpower sent me some things and hooked me up with some cool things! Thanks and the ih8mud crew is awesome. Floor mats, a rear hinge and some UHMW.

View attachment 3513372


Also in searching for pictures of BJ74s I came across this gem. I’m not sure which part is funnier, the auto trader imports stealing my picture or the BJ74 being a popular 4x4 powerhouse.


View attachment 3513373

You should copyright your images!!!
Then you be collecting those dolla bills - yo!

 

[PabloCruise]

Any updates?

 

[FJBen]

Any updates?

Not a whole lot of updates. Just driving every few days. Parts coming in, a couple of cool ones.

Developed a vibration in the rear yesterday, looks like play on rear Ujoint. Greased helped a little bit I have got underneath to check movement again. Could be done for.

Was pretty nice the other day.

 

[PabloCruise]

Is it cheaper to replace the u-joint, or to replace the rear shaft?

Once I get vacuum lines sorted, we have to get out for a Cruise in the white Cruisers...

 

[robmobile73]

Is it cheaper to replace the u-joint, or to replace the rear shaft?

Once I get vacuum lines sorted, we have to get out for a Cruise in the white Cruisers...

The most common cause for vibration in a U joint on a 4wd is failure to properly tighten the bolts after a repair/dissassembly/reassembly. Usually the mechanic is under the car uncomfortable in the dark and puts it together by hand or not good and tight and then gets out from under to go get a different wrench/socket tool and gets sidetracked and forgets to go back and crank down the nuts.............Driving with the vibration for awhile causes wear on parts which even if retightened may prematurely loosen again. Get some new nuts and bolts if yours seem worn.
If you don't want to pay someone to do the whole job it is best to remove the shaft and bring it to a driveshaft repair shop to replace the U-Joint. After years of dirt, rust, and likely minor deform when hitting rocks they are extremely difficult to remove without a cutting torch. After removal the holes if deformed on the ouside lip can be cleaned and touched up a bit with a die grinder if for easy install. Once outside lip is deformed it is very difficult/imposible to pound them out or install them without cleaning them up as mentioned. With a cutting torch at the ready theres no point in even trying to force one out. I learned this after lots of work/sweat and busted nuckles trying to remove old 4wd Ujoints with a big ball peen and punch rod led me to the shop like below. After my surprise/amazement at the cheap price and sub 20 minute turn around they let me go back and watch the guy do it on another shaft.

In the small to medium cities I've lived in there has always been at least 1Xspecialty shop that built, rebuilt, repaired: driveshafts, cv joints and axles. These shops were found looking up driveshaft in the yellow pages of the phone book. It was usually 20-25% cheaper to remove a front drive shaft and have it rebuilt than to buy another at the parts store. At times when my U joints needed replacement I'd remove the shaft and take it to the shop. They took it to the back sliced the ujoint with a cutting torch, pounded out the old(outside to inside, and put in a new one while I waited in less than 20 min. Last time I did this was for my 81' toyota 4x4 PU in the 90's it cost me less than $20. New spicer U joint was $8 at the time. U joints aren't too expensive and these shops stock most common sizes. Labor isn't expensive when they already have a guy in the back with torch and everything up and running and they're just slideing yours to the front of the work pile because you're in the front waiting....Thats real customer service to slide yours to the front and do it while you wait when most people drop them off and pick them up another day. It's such a simple job that it doesn't screw up their shop work rythm to do it(because they are doing that already). Not every shop will do that for you.

 

[robmobile73]

The most common cause for vibration in a U joint on a 4wd is failure to properly tighten the bolts after a repair/dissassembly/reassembly. Usually the mechanic is under the car uncomfortable in the dark and puts it together by hand or not good and tight and then gets out from under to go get a different wrench/socket tool and gets sidetracked and forgets to go back and crank down the nuts.............Driving with the vibration for awhile causes wear on parts which even if retightened may prematurely loosen again. Get some new nuts and bolts if yours seem worn.
If you don't want to pay someone to do the whole job it is best to remove the shaft and bring it to a driveshaft repair shop to replace the U-Joint. After years of dirt, rust, and likely minor deform when hitting rocks they are extremely difficult to remove without a cutting torch. After removal the holes if deformed on the ouside lip can be cleaned and touched up a bit with a die grinder if for easy install. Once outside lip is deformed it is very difficult/imposible to pound them out or install them without cleaning them up as mentioned. With a cutting torch at the ready theres no point in even trying to force one out. I learned this after lots of work/sweat and busted nuckles trying to remove old 4wd Ujoints with a big ball peen and punch rod led me to the shop like below. After my surprise/amazement at the cheap price and sub 20 minute turn around they let me go back and watch the guy do it on another shaft.

In the small to medium cities I've lived in there has always been at least 1Xspecialty shop that built, rebuilt, repaired: driveshafts, cv joints and axles. These shops were found looking up driveshaft in the yellow pages of the phone book. It was usually 20-25% cheaper to remove a front drive shaft and have it rebuilt than to buy another at the parts store. At times when my U joints needed replacement I'd remove the shaft and take it to the shop. They took it to the back sliced the ujoint with a cutting torch, pounded out the old(outside to inside, and put in a new one while I waited in less than 20 min. Last time I did this was for my 81' toyota 4x4 PU in the 90's it cost me less than $20. New spicer U joint was $8 at the time. U joints aren't too expensive and these shops stock most common sizes. Labor isn't expensive when they already have a guy in the back with torch and everything up and running and they're just slideing yours to the front of the work pile because you're in the front waiting....Thats real customer service to slide yours to the front and do it while you wait when most people drop them off and pick them up another day. It's such a simple job that it doesn't screw up their shop work rythm to do it(because they are doing that already). Not every shop will do that for you.

 

[FJBen]

Is it cheaper to replace the u-joint, or to replace the rear shaft?

Once I get vacuum lines sorted, we have to get out for a Cruise in the white Cruisers...

Cheaper for just Ujoint as this driveshaft is still great shape. Time to order a new Ujoint and take to the shop. Definitely need to get the cruisers out!

The most common cause for vibration in a U joint on a 4wd is failure to properly tighten the bolts after a repair/dissassembly/reassembly. Usually the mechanic is under the car uncomfortable in the dark and puts it together by hand or not good and tight and then gets out from under to go get a different wrench/socket tool and gets sidetracked and forgets to go back and crank down the nuts.............Driving with the vibration for awhile causes wear on parts which even if retightened may prematurely loosen again. Get some new nuts and bolts if yours seem worn.
If you don't want to pay someone to do the whole job it is best to remove the shaft and bring it to a driveshaft repair shop to replace the U-Joint. After years of dirt, rust, and likely minor deform when hitting rocks they are extremely difficult to remove without a cutting torch. After removal the holes if deformed on the ouside lip can be cleaned and touched up a bit with a die grinder if for easy install. Once outside lip is deformed it is very difficult/imposible to pound them out or install them without cleaning them up as mentioned. With a cutting torch at the ready theres no point in even trying to force one out. I learned this after lots of work/sweat and busted nuckles trying to remove old 4wd Ujoints with a big ball peen and punch rod led me to the shop like below. After my surprise/amazement at the cheap price and sub 20 minute turn around they let me go back and watch the guy do it on another shaft.

In the small to medium cities I've lived in there has always been at least 1Xspecialty shop that built, rebuilt, repaired: driveshafts, cv joints and axles. These shops were found looking up driveshaft in the yellow pages of the phone book. It was usually 20-25% cheaper to remove a front drive shaft and have it rebuilt than to buy another at the parts store. At times when my U joints needed replacement I'd remove the shaft and take it to the shop. They took it to the back sliced the ujoint with a cutting torch, pounded out the old(outside to inside, and put in a new one while I waited in less than 20 min. Last time I did this was for my 81' toyota 4x4 PU in the 90's it cost me less than $20. New spicer U joint was $8 at the time. U joints aren't too expensive and these shops stock most common sizes. Labor isn't expensive when they already have a guy in the back with torch and everything up and running and they're just slideing yours to the front of the work pile because you're in the front waiting....Thats real customer service to slide yours to the front and do it while you wait when most people drop them off and pick them up another day. It's such a simple job that it doesn't screw up their shop work rythm to do it(because they are doing that already). Not every shop will do that for you.

This driveshaft was rebuilt with new Ujoints less than 8k miles ago at the shop.

However I used Fuji joints instead of OEM Toyota. I’ve always used Toyota and never worried again. This one has play, and even after greasing there is still some play. So by “saving” $50 against OEM, I’m now paying that $50 plus the shop time plus inconvenience of time/driving to deal with it.

about 55mph the vibration starts. I’ve tightened bolts, they weren’t loose. Pulled and greased, and you can see movement one of the directions on the Ujoint.

 

[AirheadNut]

I am having the same problem with a GMB u-joint I replaced around 15k miles ago. There is 0.006-0.007" of axial play in each direction, the manual specifies 0.002" or less. I believe it stems partly from the snap rings provided being too thin, mine measure 1.48mm and the thinnest Toyota snap ring for the application is 2.125mm. I ordered a set of the 2.125mm snap rings to have them surface ground to the thickness I need, but now I am thinking I may be better off just getting a genuine Toyota u-joint instead.

 

[FJBen]

I am having the same problem with a GMB u-joint I replaced around 15k miles ago. There is 0.006-0.007" of axial play in each direction, the manual specifies 0.002" or less. I believe it stems partly from the snap rings provided being too thin, mine measure 1.48mm and the thinnest Toyota snap ring for the application is 2.125mm. I ordered a set of the 2.125mm snap rings to have them surface ground to the thickness I need, but now I am thinking I may be better off just getting a genuine Toyota u-joint instead.

Yep, these were good, until they weren’t. I’ve had original Toyota on 80 series with over 300k miles. It really wasn’t that much more, so I’m not sure why i didn’t go oem. I usually do.

 

[FJBen]

And of course I’m slacking…a post without a picture, how could I.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Our local driveline shops are always busy/long lead times and I'm not always satisfied with their workmanship. I think if I need work done again, I'm investing in this kit. Seems like something that could be useful as a 'club' tool as well, if you've got a local club.

 

[FJBen]

Our local driveline shops are always busy/long lead times and I'm not always satisfied with their workmanship. I think if I need work done again, I'm investing in this kit. Seems like something that could be useful as a 'club' tool as well, if you've got a local club.

That seems like a nice kit. It’s honestly pretty tempting. At the local shop it’s $50 for 1 Ujoint replacement, $75 for 2.
So 3 times I could have them replace both Ujoints to be under the tool cost. My front driveshaft is a brand new Toyota one.

Tempting as the beer per Ujoint cost of friends rigs could be high!

 

[PabloCruise]

And of course I’m slacking…a post without a picture, how could I.


View attachment 3527806

The 3rd Eye...

 

[PabloCruise]

Our local driveline shops are always busy/long lead times and I'm not always satisfied with their workmanship. I think if I need work done again, I'm investing in this kit. Seems like something that could be useful as a 'club' tool as well, if you've got a local club.

Can you "rent" that kit at ORLY for $0?

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Looks like maybe? https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-...0_0?searchText=U-joint+press&redirectUrl=true

 

[FJBen]

More goodies.

Some nice ****OEM RETRO VINt@GE 80s TEQ rare value driven mindset Toyota*** oem goodness. (Subtle nod at Toyotamatt)

Is it particularly useful? No
Did I need it? No
Did I get one basically to look cool and feel good about myself and hopefully get some street crew back from those whose disapprove the snorkel…you know who you are.

I’ve wanted one of these forever. I saw @FJ73Texas post up about getting one from @Zee and decided it’s now or never.

@Zee was awesome to deal with and stellar communication. Definitely recommend. Parts are great. Zee put me in touch with @FJ73Texas as he actually had a spare RHD dash pad I picked up from him. It showed up today after traveling randomly around for a few days.

Everything looks great. I don’t have the hole in the dash, nor can I find the sub harness to connect this, but I only 12v/ground for the lights so should be easy to hookup like fj73 texas did.

Now should I be working on the Ujoint, and fixing that input shaft leak? Yes, but it’s too cold and I don’t have a heated garage at the moment. This is much more fun to deal with.

 

[Gun Runner 5]

Your desktop doesn’t appear to be level.

 

[FJBen]

Your desktop doesn’t appear to be level. View attachment 3529034

I live right near the mountains on a hill so…