Really nice work!! Power on. Very close to get it running!!!
Builds 1988 BJ74 “Number 1” (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter FJBen
- Start date
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FJBen
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- Thread starter
- #202
Injection Timing. I was a bit fuzzy on how to do this and reading about it pretty much got me into a deep rabbit hole of thermal efficiency, peak pressure, crank angle and the like. It's pretty simple at it's core. Does the injector fire at TDC (top dead center) before (advanced) or after (retarded). The 13BT is set to 11° BTDC from the factory.
As for special tools, all you need is a piece of injection pipe about 50mm in total length. I got mine from a friend who is a retired John Deere mechanic. He had spare lines they used for parts and allowed me to cut the end off of one.
Mount it on the #1 injector spot on the Injection Pump.
Make sure you are at TDC on the compression stroke. You can check this feeling the rocker arms. On TDC on compression, the rockers on cylinder 1 are loose, and 4 should be tight. If not, rotate 360° and you should be good to go.
If you have the engine on a stand, you will need a fuel source and return setup. The hand primer on the IP worked quite well and I was able to build up pressure until I could hear it coming through the overflow.
According to the manual, you then need to rotate the crank "back and forth" a little around TDC until you see fuel start coming out. Then slowly crank counterclockwise to get before the timing marks.
Next you slowly crank it clockwise while staring at the injector pipe. As soon as they fuel level comes up, stop moving the crank. Look at the crank pulley and see where the mark on the pulley is in relation to the pointer on the timing case.
Depending if the crank pulley mark is before or after the point is how much you are advanced or retarded on the timing. To fix that you loosen the 3 IP bolts, the nut on the injection pump stay, and loosen the injection lines and bolts holding the fuel filter. Then rotate the injection pump towards the pump to advance, away to retard.
Hook everything back up and repeat the steps to check timing. I did this many times and was pretty close so I called it good enough for now. It's possible I may adjust after driving it.
Not sure if this video will work or not.
timingvid.mp4
As for special tools, all you need is a piece of injection pipe about 50mm in total length. I got mine from a friend who is a retired John Deere mechanic. He had spare lines they used for parts and allowed me to cut the end off of one.
Mount it on the #1 injector spot on the Injection Pump.
Make sure you are at TDC on the compression stroke. You can check this feeling the rocker arms. On TDC on compression, the rockers on cylinder 1 are loose, and 4 should be tight. If not, rotate 360° and you should be good to go.
If you have the engine on a stand, you will need a fuel source and return setup. The hand primer on the IP worked quite well and I was able to build up pressure until I could hear it coming through the overflow.
According to the manual, you then need to rotate the crank "back and forth" a little around TDC until you see fuel start coming out. Then slowly crank counterclockwise to get before the timing marks.
Next you slowly crank it clockwise while staring at the injector pipe. As soon as they fuel level comes up, stop moving the crank. Look at the crank pulley and see where the mark on the pulley is in relation to the pointer on the timing case.
Depending if the crank pulley mark is before or after the point is how much you are advanced or retarded on the timing. To fix that you loosen the 3 IP bolts, the nut on the injection pump stay, and loosen the injection lines and bolts holding the fuel filter. Then rotate the injection pump towards the pump to advance, away to retard.
Hook everything back up and repeat the steps to check timing. I did this many times and was pretty close so I called it good enough for now. It's possible I may adjust after driving it.
Not sure if this video will work or not.
timingvid.mp4
FJBen
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #203
So the list of stuff done this weekend:
Crank Seal installed
Fuel Filter
IP Fuel and Spill Lines installed
Injector Overflow Lines installed
Coolant Hard lines installed, bottom line should have been on before intake but I was able to fish it in
Cold Valve Timing Set
Rocker Cover Torqued
Valve Cover torqued
Coolant hoses on Water Pump
Set Injection Timing
Cleaned and Installed venturi and heat grid
Clean hard fuel lines, replace soft with Napa Barricade Fuel line and replace on rig
Install fuel sender, pickup with new filter sock in tank
Next up:
Install flywheel, pilot bearing, clutch, pressure plate
Install motor mounts
Install crank pulleys and torque
Turbo/intake...still deciding if I should put this on before or after it's in the truck.
At this point I can put this back in the truck finally!
Question on the radiator/fan/shroud setup. Whats the best way to install the shroud/radiator fan setup? I know on some vehicles it doesn't matter, but on some you have to do the order right or you can't get the fan on or vice versa.
Crank Seal installed
Fuel Filter
IP Fuel and Spill Lines installed
Injector Overflow Lines installed
Coolant Hard lines installed, bottom line should have been on before intake but I was able to fish it in
Cold Valve Timing Set
Rocker Cover Torqued
Valve Cover torqued
Coolant hoses on Water Pump
Set Injection Timing
Cleaned and Installed venturi and heat grid
Clean hard fuel lines, replace soft with Napa Barricade Fuel line and replace on rig
Install fuel sender, pickup with new filter sock in tank
Next up:
Install flywheel, pilot bearing, clutch, pressure plate
Install motor mounts
Install crank pulleys and torque
Turbo/intake...still deciding if I should put this on before or after it's in the truck.
At this point I can put this back in the truck finally!
Question on the radiator/fan/shroud setup. Whats the best way to install the shroud/radiator fan setup? I know on some vehicles it doesn't matter, but on some you have to do the order right or you can't get the fan on or vice versa.
Last edited:
Solid tech!! About close to the finish line. Did your truck not have the fan shroud?
FJBen
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #205
It does have the fan shroud, it wasn't on when I got the vehicle. I had the whole rear end of this filled with parts and the radiator/shroud, while the lower half of the engine was still mounted and attached. There has been quite a bit as of lately deciphering where certain parts go and in which order to replace them. The manual is a little vague on somethings, and the Japanese to English translation could be helped.
Under waterpump removal it states:
1: Drain Engine
2: Remove Drive Belt
3: Remove Fan and Waterpump pulley - Remove 4 nuts holding Fluid Coupling Assembly.
Now to me, that means that radiator and shroud can stay in place. Or in my case, I should install radiator/shroud before the fan/pulley.
However, they skim over a few things sometimes and have names of things I'm not sure about like this step unbolting the intake: (b) remove the 5 bolts and 3 nuts holding the level gauge clamp. I'm not sure what they mean by level gauge clamp.
I've never taken mine apart.
@cruiserdan, some pics of yours might help. @lazylfarm ‘s truck came in pieces. He is looking puzzling it back.
I am loving this thread 
FJBen
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #212
I put the fuel tank back on last night with help from my son. What a pain putting that tank back on is.
I decided to remove the rear bumper to get it back on easier because there is a tow hitch on mine and the supports make it really tight to get the tank back in. The hoses were also quite the pain to get back on. Unfun. I hope I don't have to do that again.
The hitch on the back of the cruiser.
The homemade rear bumper and tow hitch. This will be fun getting it back on. I plan to spray paint it to clean it all back up.
They welded to extra center tabs on this hitch to tie into the back support. I think that is overkill for anything this is going to tow.
Decided to mount the turbo up. The coolant lines I'm going to replace. Unfortunately looks like you can't get those anymore so I will have to make due with non-molded lines. I'm not going to keep 30yr old hoses on a new engine/turbo. Old hoses are what caused the whole rebuild in the first place.
I put the new oil sender on. I can see how that would be a giant pain if the engine is in the truck. Not really anyway to test that sensor besides ohm, so I hope it's a good sensor.
The plan is to stick it in the truck this weekend.
I decided to remove the rear bumper to get it back on easier because there is a tow hitch on mine and the supports make it really tight to get the tank back in. The hoses were also quite the pain to get back on. Unfun. I hope I don't have to do that again.
The hitch on the back of the cruiser.
The homemade rear bumper and tow hitch. This will be fun getting it back on. I plan to spray paint it to clean it all back up.
They welded to extra center tabs on this hitch to tie into the back support. I think that is overkill for anything this is going to tow.
Decided to mount the turbo up. The coolant lines I'm going to replace. Unfortunately looks like you can't get those anymore so I will have to make due with non-molded lines. I'm not going to keep 30yr old hoses on a new engine/turbo. Old hoses are what caused the whole rebuild in the first place.
I put the new oil sender on. I can see how that would be a giant pain if the engine is in the truck. Not really anyway to test that sensor besides ohm, so I hope it's a good sensor.
The plan is to stick it in the truck this weekend.
Looks awesome. Great work! About there!
FJBen
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- Thread starter
- #214
Big Day. Started out putting last little bits of cooling hose, shields and a few other odds and ends before sticking it back in.
Almost there. It's heavy and I was running out of ceiling height but it did clear.
Now at this point I proceeded to get my butt kicked for 5 hours. I couldn't get things lined up for the clutch to slide on no matter what I did. I loosened the transmission, jacked it up, down, adjusted the tilt/height of engine, nothing worked. It would just stop after barely lining up. The third time I took it completely out, realigned the truck and pulled the clutch off. The clutch disk wouldn't fit over the tranny splines.
PRO TIP: Make sure your clutch fits over the splines BEFORE you jack around for hours.
Did I get the wrong one? Was I going to call @cruiseroutfit and figure out what happened. I grabbed my old clutch disk and it didn't fit either...
I had washed the vehicle a few times and it appears as if some surface rust flashed on the splines not letting the disk on! After getting BOTH disks to fit I put it all back together and lowered it in the bay AGAIN.
I pulled all the motor mounts off the block, pulled the exhaust pipe to give as much room as possible. It finally slid on part way! I was able to use the bolts to pull it all the way on, but it wasn't really easy. Then I had to put the motor mounts back on loosely and still move the engine/tranny around a little to get it to fit in the mounts correctly. 8:00PM it's done, or should I say I'm done. I had been working on it since 10AM with a quick run to town and lunch, but I put a solid 7 hours in. Was hoping to be further...
Oh and it appears my slave cylinder is leaking away so theres that.
Almost there. It's heavy and I was running out of ceiling height but it did clear.
Now at this point I proceeded to get my butt kicked for 5 hours. I couldn't get things lined up for the clutch to slide on no matter what I did. I loosened the transmission, jacked it up, down, adjusted the tilt/height of engine, nothing worked. It would just stop after barely lining up. The third time I took it completely out, realigned the truck and pulled the clutch off. The clutch disk wouldn't fit over the tranny splines.
PRO TIP: Make sure your clutch fits over the splines BEFORE you jack around for hours.
Did I get the wrong one? Was I going to call @cruiseroutfit and figure out what happened. I grabbed my old clutch disk and it didn't fit either...
I had washed the vehicle a few times and it appears as if some surface rust flashed on the splines not letting the disk on! After getting BOTH disks to fit I put it all back together and lowered it in the bay AGAIN. I pulled all the motor mounts off the block, pulled the exhaust pipe to give as much room as possible. It finally slid on part way! I was able to use the bolts to pull it all the way on, but it wasn't really easy. Then I had to put the motor mounts back on loosely and still move the engine/tranny around a little to get it to fit in the mounts correctly. 8:00PM it's done, or should I say I'm done. I had been working on it since 10AM with a quick run to town and lunch, but I put a solid 7 hours in. Was hoping to be further...
Oh and it appears my slave cylinder is leaking away so theres that.
Big Day. Started out putting last little bits of cooling hose, shields and a few other odds and ends before sticking it back in.
Almost there. It's heavy and I was running out of ceiling height but it did clear.
Now at this point I proceeded to get my butt kicked for 5 hours. I couldn't get things lined up for the clutch to slide on no matter what I did. I loosened the transmission, jacked it up, down, adjusted the tilt/height of engine, nothing worked. It would just stop after barely lining up. The third time I took it completely out, realigned the truck and pulled the clutch off. The clutch disk wouldn't fit over the tranny splines.
PRO TIP: Make sure your clutch fits over the splines BEFORE you jack around for hours.
Did I get the wrong one? Was I going to call @cruiseroutfit and figure out what happened. I grabbed my old clutch disk and it didn't fit either...
I pulled all the motor mounts off the block, pulled the exhaust pipe to give as much room as possible. It finally slid on part way! I was able to use the bolts to pull it all the way on, but it wasn't really easy. Then I had to put the motor mounts back on loosely and still move the engine/tranny around a little to get it to fit in the mounts correctly. 8:00PM it's done, or should I say I'm done. I had been working on it since 10AM with a quick run to town and lunch, but I put a solid 7 hours in. Was hoping to be further...
Oh and it appears my slave cylinder is leaking away so theres that.
Can’t wait to see a video of your first start. Great work man!
Hopefully you remembered to grease the input shaft splines.
FJBen
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #218
Got another solid chunk of work done yesterday.
This is one of the heater hoses I found at Napa that was pretty close to the OEM hose. I couldn't find the OEM hoses anywhere so the Napa hose was pretty close. Napa 10703.
Closer.
Radiator
Shroud
Belts
Heater hose
Radiator Hoses
Fluids
Batteries
Then should be ready to start.
This is one of the heater hoses I found at Napa that was pretty close to the OEM hose. I couldn't find the OEM hoses anywhere so the Napa hose was pretty close. Napa 10703.
Closer.
Radiator
Shroud
Belts
Heater hose
Radiator Hoses
Fluids
Batteries
Then should be ready to start.
FJBen
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #219
I'm thinking I have a few vacuum lines wrong.
There is one that is attached to the throttle cable going over to the venturi. Where exactly does that one hook in? I don't see it in the manual or vacuum diagram.
The previous owner had this labled as "dash pot"
Also, on the injection pump, at the bottom I believe is a port for what I have read as the A/C idle up. I don't however see any vacuum lines around that area that would fit, unless it's the one that follow the throttle cable.
This would be the port, in the bottom left of the photo. (picture stolen from ih8mud)
There is one that is attached to the throttle cable going over to the venturi. Where exactly does that one hook in? I don't see it in the manual or vacuum diagram.
The previous owner had this labled as "dash pot"
Also, on the injection pump, at the bottom I believe is a port for what I have read as the A/C idle up. I don't however see any vacuum lines around that area that would fit, unless it's the one that follow the throttle cable.
This would be the port, in the bottom left of the photo. (picture stolen from ih8mud)
