Builds 1988 BJ74 “Number 1” (2 Viewers)

[FJBen]

Mystery Hose. Is this an overflow hose or?

 

[FJBen]

H55F/split case oil

I need to fill these up before the test drive. It sounds like 75w90 is preferred, and it must be a GL4. As this tranny has some miles on it, I'm not really wanting to go with synthetic until a rebuild.

I found some Valvoline Conventional 75w90 gear oil, for Limited Slip Diffs. From all accounts, this should be find for the the H55F/split case correct?

 

[cruiserdan]

80-90 is the factory spec.

 

[FJBen]

80-90 is the factory spec.

thanks
Thats right, I'm confusing my numbers. lots of oil theory...a larger rabbit hole than I would like to go down.

 

[FJBen]

So electronic issues. I’m thinking maybe a bad ground.

12volt

Battery 1, grounded direct to frame, battery 2 (accessories) grounded to body

Starter bolt grounded to frame.

Lights work, horn works. Key on radio works and fan blower only on 2 high speeds. Brake light on,both turbo lights and water/air filter lights stay on even after you remove key. You have unplug battery.
This happens with 1 or 2 batteries hooked up.

Ground or?

 

[jfrench]

I'm thinking I have a few vacuum lines wrong.

There is one that is attached to the throttle cable going over to the venturi. Where exactly does that one hook in? I don't see it in the manual or vacuum diagram.

The previous owner had this labled as "dash pot"

Also, on the injection pump, at the bottom I believe is a port for what I have read as the A/C idle up. I don't however see any vacuum lines around that area that would fit, unless it's the one that follow the throttle cable.

This would be the port, in the bottom left of the photo. (picture stolen from ih8mud)

Not sure if anyone ever answered this but yes, vacuum line that follows throttle cable goes to the port you noted in the borrowed pic above. "magnet valve" to "idle up actuator" per ToyoDIY. Can be found in the Heating & AC vacuum piping diagram.

 

[jfrench]

Mystery Hose. Is this an overflow hose or?

Just took a look in my engine bay and can't find a matching hose, although I deleted my rear heater. Perhaps it's part of that circuit. Definitely does not look like overflow hose.

Thanks for the info on those Napa hoses to copy the OEM lines. Think I'll replace those as you have. Nice work all around by the way!

 

[cruiserdan]

So electronic issues. I’m thinking maybe a bad ground.

12volt

Battery 1, grounded direct to frame, battery 2 (accessories) grounded to body

Starter bolt grounded to frame.

Lights work, horn works. Key on radio works and fan blower only on 2 high speeds. Brake light on,both turbo lights and water/air filter lights stay on even after you remove key. You have unplug battery.
This happens with 1 or 2 batteries hooked up.

Ground or?

Blower motor is not directly related. That is a blower resistor issue.

Do the lights dim when you hit the starter?

 

[FJBen]

Just took a look in my engine bay and can't find a matching hose, although I deleted my rear heater. Perhaps it's part of that circuit. Definitely does not look like overflow hose.

Thanks for the info on those Napa hoses to copy the OEM lines. Think I'll replace those as you have. Nice work all around by the way!

Weird. It’s definitely a molded coolant hose that’s size fits on the overflow of the thermostat housing. I don’t have a hose from there to my overflow bottle and I’m not sure how that gets routed.

This truck didn’t come with rear heat, maybe and Australia thing?

 

[FJBen]

Blower motor is not directly related. That is a blower resistor issue.

Do the lights dim when you hit the starter?

I wondered if that was that blower issue.
I haven’t bumped the starter as I don’t have oil in it yet. Next step
I did however unhook the ground from the frame and it did the same thing so maybe it is a bad ground?
Not a lot of work as we got hammered by a blizzard and it took a few hours plowing just to get out of our place in the tundra. We have a few 3-4’ drifts

 

[jfrench]

Here's my t-stat and overflow setup:

 

[FJBen]

Here's my t-stat and overflow setup:
View attachment 1951230View attachment 1951231

Thanks I appreciate those pictures. That helps me see how it's run.

Can you tell me where you negative battery cable grounds too?

 

[FJBen]

So a little more testing this morning...and smoke.

I was out doing a little more troubleshooting this morning. I hooked up the starting battery then hopped in and turned the key. smoke, crap I forgot to hook the second battery up and it was arc'ing as the positive was off. I swear. I hooked everything back up and it exhibits the same thing.

Plug in battery(s) and you hear relays click.
Turn key to on and air/water in fuel light, turbo/overboost stay on until you un-plug the battery
Bumping the starter just clicks and dash lights dim slightly.

My gut tells me I'm not getting a good ground on the main battery. Where is the factory ground position on the BJ74?

 

[FJBen]

I realize I"m answering my own questions...but I think the battery ground should go to the engine block. Does anyone know where their battery ground is on the engine block?




Also pictures of the mini blizzard we had yesterday. 77 on wednesday blizzard thurdsay.

That drift is 3'+ for about 30' in our main entrance. The other entrance wasn't much better.

Stella likes snow. She spent most of the day out in it.

 

[FJBen]

Thanks to @saltycoconuts he got a great picture of where the ground should go.

 

[FJBen]

Able to get the starter to bump over but I’m still having the same issue. I don’t want to go any further as I don’t want it to run away.

Key on and brake light, filter lights and turbo lights stay on even with key off. You can run the fan as well. It’s like the power doesn’t ever get turned off.

I do have this mystery connection at the bellhousing that’s not plugged in. It’s coming out of the same spot as the starter trigger.

Thoughts?

 

[saltycoconuts]

Able to get the starter to bump over but I’m still having the same issue. I don’t want to go any further as I don’t want it to run away.

Key on and brake light, filter lights and turbo lights stay on even with key off. You can run the fan as well. It’s like the power doesn’t ever get turned off.

I do have this mystery connection at the bellhousing that’s not plugged in. It’s coming out of the same spot as the starter trigger.

Thoughts?View attachment 1952324

I can crawl around my engine bay and get some pictures of the electronics and connections if you want. Not sure what differs between 24v and 12v. Can’t imagine much

 

[AirheadNut]

Is it possible that there is a power relay that is sticking? Unless I’m mistaken the lights etc don’t come on until the key is turned on, but won’t shut off when the key is turned off? Possible bad ignition switch?

 

[FJBen]

I can crawl around my engine bay and get some pictures of the electronics and connections if you want. Not sure what differs between 24v and 12v. Can’t imagine much

Thanks Alika, that’s the only wire connector that stands out as missing something.

Is it possible that there is a power relay that is sticking? Unless I’m mistaken the lights etc don’t come on until the key is turned on, but won’t shut off when the key is turned off? Possible bad ignition switch?

That’s a good thought about sticking. I can hear relays click when i hook up battery. And then again when I turn the key. Correct no lights come on until key turned then they stay on. I can here relays click again when I unplug battery.

I see 2 relays attached to the battery tray. I hear clicking over on drivers side kind of where the air valves are up on the firewall.

 

[FJBen]

More quick testing reveals the following


Click from what sounds like starter solenoid or that area when I put positive battery cable on. Will need help to confirm.

Using a test light between negative cable and post it lights up telling me something is energizing as soon as power is connected to battery.

Thoughts?