Builds 1988 BJ74 “Number 1” (11 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

-56020 and -56021 are the same part. The latter is a supersession of the former. They are interchangeable.

Good info.
So they mention anything else about different sizes sort of like undersize crank etc?

Engine Australia is telling me they sell the taiho cam bearings that fit the 13bt (I’m pretty sure taiho makes oem Toyota cam bearings) They have run into 2 cases now of the 13bt cam bearings having too small of OD for the block, even with both sets of bearings.
This leads me to believe there maybe be 3 sets or more of cam bearing sizes that fit the 13bt. How that stacks up with date and casting numbers I haven’t figured out yet.

I guess I will see when I get the new taiho bearings.
 
11802-56020 and 11802-56021 are Toyotas part number for the 13BT.


According to Toyota, 11802-56030 is the part number for the bearing that fits my 13BT. Taiho says CO48L. Those measurements CO48L are exact to what the machine shop measured. The photo that shows the machine shops measurements was actually written down wrong on the Cam size. Only the 1st bearing is 2.1xx....the rest are 2.0xx etc.

Here is the listing for the Taiho bearing CO48L (ignore the oil clearance as there is a typo, should be .025 - .066 which jives with factory specs)

Screen%20Shot%202019-02-11%20at%2010.25.57%20AM.png



All this to say, Taiho CO48L seems to be the exact part I need for my engine.
I'm not ordering "OEM" because
A: I'm pretty sure Taiho makes the bearings for Toyota, identical markings
B: I don't have any measurements from Toyota that 11802-56030 is the correct measurements due to the fact that 56020 should have fit and 56021 superseded it and they definitely aren't the same size and neither fit.

I ordered AGAIN, as the first source cancelled my order and said they couldn't get it. Hopefully in a week or so I will get it.
Engine Australia only has CO48L listed as a 14B bearing, but said entirely possible it fits my block and many of B blocks.

Looks like I'll be putting some "B" series cam bearings up for sale.
 
So another setback with the cam bearings. Apparently CO48L isn't in stock anywhere that I can find. I went ahead and took a flyer on the OEM part (which is Taiho for $25 more to be in a Toyota box :meh:) 11802-56030. This seems to match up according to Taiho and is shows in stock.

Not holding my breath. If this doesn't work then the machine shop said he would make brass cam bearing$$$.

1180256030.jpg
 
Last edited:
1 can of Klean Strip Lacquer Thinner, quart







Load the tank up in the back of the tundra and drive around with it. Drain what comes out.

badfuel.jpg


Thats some pretty nasty looking stuff. Modern diesel fuel just doesn't last as long as the old diesel fuel used to.

Look in the tank and see great progress!

tank2.jpg


I will probably do another round or 2 with the lacquer thinner to make sure it's clean out the throw some ATF in the tank to slosh around and coat it. ATF is also great for lubricity on the pump.

I plan to put a clear pre-filter on in place of the sedimenter so I can see what's going on in the fuel line.
 
Got a few hours in today. It was 57 on wednesday...blizzard today. This is the inside shop temp.

temp.jpg


With the wood burning stove I was able to get the shop up to 50. I'll take it.

I have never seen an air cleaner this dirty. The whole bottom half as well was the same. Just greasy dirty crud. I would rather change a birfield than this stuff. Took hours of cleaning, degreasing, scraping to get it clean. Not sure what caused all that other than a lot of Australian outback dirt and whatever grease/vacuum gets pushed into the air cleaner??

Surprising enough, the intake hoses are all really clean, along with the top of this canister as you can see. Yes, I need a new intake hose...thinking silicon maybe.

intakedirt.jpg


A little cleaner now.

intakeclean.jpg




And finally, I think the tank is just about good to go. I put in some more lacquer thinner and shaked, jump, sloshed around over a few hours and this is where I'm at. I will drain tomorrow and coat with ATF and call it good. I plan to run a clear inline filter in the engine bay to catch anything before sedimenter and filter.

tank.jpg
 
Wow... the inside of your fuel tank has come a long way. Huge improvement.

It was pretty gummed up on the bottom. The catch pail that I’m dumping it in is starting to settle out and looking really bad. Nasty fuel.
I think this is going to work well.
 
Got the cam bearings in and it appears we have success. 3rd times a charm. Part number 11802-56030 is correct. That part number is for use in in 3B/14B. :hmm: and 13BT and most likely more in the B series. The measurements are the same as needed in the block and the oil holes are in the correct place per bearing.

So that leads me to believe after 8/88, the 13BT had some changes and the larger cam bore was one of them.

cam3rd.jpg


Onward we move, hoping now reassembly can start soon.
 
The day started pretty low on tech. I had one shock that had a missing bushing, and the top was falling apart. I measured and found these from Energy Suspension. $5 per shock. Low hanging fruit.

shock1.jpg


Fits fine.

shock2.jpg




Do you think this intercooler will fit...

intercooler.jpg



this is for my TDI jetta. The original has a hole and is leaking.
 
Machine shop done. Going to pickup the block tomorrow, but that was a LONG process. Here are a few pictures of the work.


Head refreshed, new valve seals, valves actually set correctly and new freeze plugs. He did me a HUGE solid and only charged $50 for that as he felt bad about all the other crap the previous machine shop did. I refused but he said it was fair for him and thats what matters. Doing things right and people will come back.
headrefresh.jpg


Back from parts cleaning along with other pieces.

oil%20filter%20%28Benjamin%E2%80%99s%20MacBook%20Air%27s%20conflicted%20copy%202019-02-27%29.jpg


Engine will be put back together and he gave me the things he uses to build engines. Any things that might need oil during assembly, such as headbolts, etc...

assembly%20oil.jpg



Anything that might need grease. Put this on lifters, valve tips, rocker tips, pushrod, cam.

assembly%20grease%20%28Benjamin%E2%80%99s%20MacBook%20Air%27s%20conflicted%20copy%202019-02-27%29.jpg



Yes racing oil. I can't wait to see my 0-60 time. ;)
 
Now for what the machine shop actually did and costs that may or may not reflect what it will cost if you want to dip into the Diesel Land Cruiser world.

This is just the labor:
Clean block and some accessories (jet wash) $175
Resurface block $150
Reface Rocker arms $26
Crankshaft grind, polish/size rods, .25mm $175
Con rods resize $160
Bushings R&R, fit pins and con rods $200
Cam bearings, frost plugs $75
Machine counter bore $220
Assemble short block $300
R&R Pistons $20
R&R Piston Liners $85
Machine no longer available frost plugs $65
Head refresh/ new valve seals, new frost plugs, set valve depth correctly $50 (this number should be WAY higher)

This doesn't count any cost the Previous owner had for the full rebuild kit plus pistons and a supposed head rebuild and initial con-rod bushing install.

Parts at machine shop were very minimal: a couple freeze plugs, plastiguage and assembly lube and some sealant/retainer. he has WAY more hours into this than he is charging me for, but I think he enjoyed this build and also felt bad from what the other shops did. We also had quite a few weeks of waiting on parts, different crank bearings and 2 different times with cam bearings. Everything went together really nice and within spec.

Reassembly will start in the next week or so as I'm completely over this 10 degree weather right now.
 
FYI, you can still get the rubber seals for the top and bottom of the air cleaner box. The felt for the dust catcher on the bottom is also still available. I was never able to find the big felt seal for the cap so I bought x3 for the dust catcher and glued them onto the cap, it worked well.


Cheers
 
The day started pretty low on tech. I had one shock that had a missing bushing, and the top was falling apart. I measured and found these from Energy Suspension. $5 per shock. Low hanging fruit.

shock1.jpg


Fits fine.

shock2.jpg




Do you think this intercooler will fit...

intercooler.jpg



this is for my TDI jetta. The original has a hole and is leaking.

Ha! I’ve got one of those intercoolers sitting in a back corner of my garage, I can’t seem to get rid of it...

That seems like really reasonable pricing for machine work, if they were closer I’d be tempted to drop off my 1HZ and have them give it the works.
 
Ha! I’ve got one of those intercoolers sitting in a back corner of my garage, I can’t seem to get rid of it...

That seems like really reasonable pricing for machine work, if they were closer I’d be tempted to drop off my 1HZ and have them give it the works.

Yeah he seemed reasonable to me, and did quite a bit extra that he didn't charge for.

I put that intercooler on my TDI last night, my other one was leaking bad. Still didn't fix my low boost issue, but I'm pretty positive thats my MAF sensor thats bad.
 
Brackets cleaned up.

If you have a machine shop that does power/jet wash and cleaning, highly recommend it unless you really like cleaning things. Some of these brackets and covers were just covered in nasty grease.

brackets.jpg


I will probably use some of my aluminum cleaner and make this look a little nicer.

timingcover.jpg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom