mongoose2231
Supporting Vendor
Damn, the heart is back in!!! Fxxxin a bud, keep it up!!
Builds 1987 fj60 12h-t h55f conversion (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter roma042987
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- #462
I sourced a hj61 fan shroud from Canada a few months ago so installed it last night. Sure is nice when everything fits like factory. I only had 1.5 hours last night to work on it so I got the front end back on it and everything hooked up. This evening I got the fuel system primed and added the fluids. I spun it over to build oil pressure but it didn't take much at all and the beast came to life. I took it on a five mile or so jaunt and damn if I'm not grinning ear to ear! It's like drive a bob tail big rig! Gears are very close and all the torque you could imagine. Im going to try to swap in the new injectors tomorrow and install the coolant pipes. Actually thinking of waiting a bit to readjust valves because they sound perfect and it runs amazing.
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red66toy
Supporting Vendor
Outstanding work and I love the hoodless driving photo. I bet the engine was happy too.
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- #464
Thanks! Appreciate the kind words. I wanted to leave the hood off until I get my rebuilt injectors swapped in and the heater hoses hooked up just because it's so much easier to work on it. Engine felt very happy.
kept telling me to slow it down but heck I was barely in to the throttle.
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- Thread starter
- #465
I got all new Toyota injector seats, seals, and copper return washers so threw them in with the injectors this evening after work and charged the ac up. Michael rode over and gave me much needed hand with the hood. I decided to drive it to dinner this evening so put 130 miles on already. Grinning the whole way. 
I was going to do a hot valve adjustment but couldn't seem to get the valve cover to clear the brace on the firewall. I'm thinking it needs tweaked or cut a little. I may wait until I have 1k miles or so and just retorque the head bolts too. I'm kinda sceptical of that being necessary but figure it probably can't hurt much.
I was going to do a hot valve adjustment but couldn't seem to get the valve cover to clear the brace on the firewall. I'm thinking it needs tweaked or cut a little. I may wait until I have 1k miles or so and just retorque the head bolts too. I'm kinda sceptical of that being necessary but figure it probably can't hurt much.
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- #466
I did notice the high idle is around 1400 or so with it cold or the ac on so I need to adjust that down to 1000 or so. Also noticed an ac leak when I checked everything under the hood. It appears to be under the passenger battery tray so I'll need to pull it for a better look. I'm thinking it may be just a loose connection that I forgot to tighten but will see. Ac blew snow balls all evening so that's good. Real happy with where that oil pressure gauge is sitting too
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- Thread starter
- #467
I tightened up the loose ac fitting under the battery this morning and recharged the system. It still had some freon so leak wasn't massive. Logged nearly 300 miles last night and today and engine feels awesome. No abnormal noises or smoke. No coolant or oil loss. Haven't even found a loose hose clamp.
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- #468
A few years back I had the dreaded intermittent horn issue on my 60. Quickly referring to mud I found the posts about the horn pin wearing down and since I always have shells laying all over the place I stuck a spent .22 casing over the pin. Ever since it has had an annoying rubbing sound whenever you turn the steering wheel. For whatever reason I never bothered to go back in and replace that pin. Now the other day my wife went for a test ride with me in the old girl and one of the first words out of her before we even left the drive was "what's that noise 
?" I told her I'd address it and this evening I finally replaced the shell casing. I was surprised at how much it had actually worn.
?" I told her I'd address it and this evening I finally replaced the shell casing. I was surprised at how much it had actually worn.
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- #469
After initially driving my 60 with a 12ht in it a couple of years ago I immediately knew id never part with the old girl. Even right after it broke down 2000+ miles from home I was determined to get it back on the road. At the time several people asked me why I don't just abandon it where it broke. For me that simply wasn't an option. When Peter @Behemoth60 helped me save it up in Canada when it broke down I eyed one of the bj60s he had sitting in his back 40, he graciously let me rob the "glow" lens out of the instrument cluster of a bj60 parts truck he had. Since the truck is finally running again I put that little lens in its place. Im going to wire the choke wire in the engine bay that illuminates the bulb over to the glow screen. That way when my momentary push button (bottom left of last photo) is depressed the glow indicator will be lit.
Thanks again Peter!
Thanks again Peter!
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- #470
I should have logged the miles on the new engine at start up but somehow forgot so I'll do it here. I drove it four miles and flipped the trip so it had 155033 at the time of install. The way it's running I'm expecting the miles to add up quick. I changed the oil after 500 just as a precautionary measure.
Installed a new parking brake cable yesterday along with new equalizer brackets and bushings. I pulled the drums to make sure the parking brake bell crank arms were moving freely and inadvertently I found one of the adjusters was frozen up so fixed that. I was kind of surprised because I'm pretty sure I lubed them three or four years ago when I did the shoes, wheel cylinders, and axle seals.
Old cable was pretty ratty after 30 years, I couldn't operate it by hand but the parking brake worked on the truck. I'm pretty sure it didn't always release fully.
Somehow this pic got turned up side down but just posting the part numbers for reference.
Installed a new parking brake cable yesterday along with new equalizer brackets and bushings. I pulled the drums to make sure the parking brake bell crank arms were moving freely and inadvertently I found one of the adjusters was frozen up so fixed that. I was kind of surprised because I'm pretty sure I lubed them three or four years ago when I did the shoes, wheel cylinders, and axle seals.
Old cable was pretty ratty after 30 years, I couldn't operate it by hand but the parking brake worked on the truck. I'm pretty sure it didn't always release fully.
Somehow this pic got turned up side down but just posting the part numbers for reference.
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- Thread starter
- #471
- Thread starter
- #472
I installed some new door speakers in the doors this evening using the original speakers as a bracket. They are 4" pioneer speakers. Here are the old original speakers. I actually assumed they didn't work but when my new ones didn't power up either I pulled the radio and found the front speaker wires unhooked from the CD player. The previous owner had installed two 6x9s or something of that nature in the cargo area (in wooden speaker boxes) and those were directly wired to the head unit.
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- #473
The problem with all the modern speakers is that they use four mounting holes and are too deep for the 60 series doors without modifying the door panel or the innards of the door. The magnets on most 5-1/4" speakers I've found come in contact with the door glass when it's rolled down. I personally didn't want to drill holes in the door shell and wanted to retain the factory original speaker grills on the door panel. I actually shimmed my speakers on the bracket with a 6mm nut between each mounting screw. I actually don't think that was necessary with the 4" speakers but my screws were a bit longer and I figured it couldn't hurt anything. Hard to tell from the photos but I was able to reuse the factory seal between the speaker bracket and door shell as well.
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- #474
My ocd got the best of me which led to me pulling the door panels back off to put some shorter screws in the speakers. I also removed the spacer nuts. Even with the nuts removed I still have 3/4" of clearance between the back of the speaker and the glass. The zinc screws are what I picked up and installed.
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- #475
While I had the passenger door apart I replaced the broken passenger outer door handle, window run channel, and the inner door glass belt molding on the panel. I also ordered a new window crank. I replaced these parts on the driver door a couple of years ago and that window is just so much easier to roll down. I wasn't crazy about how the passenger side felt with the new run channel this evening so I think I'm going to go ahead and get a regulator for it while it's still available.
These door handles are terrible by the way. Id expected better for Toyota parts. The metal is so flimsy no wonder the handle was broken it practically feels like plastic.
These door handles are terrible by the way. Id expected better for Toyota parts. The metal is so flimsy no wonder the handle was broken it practically feels like plastic.
- Thread starter
- #476
I also upgraded the master cylinder this evening to the larger bore t100 unit. The lines just barely had to be tweaked maybe a 1/2 inch or so otherwise it's a direct bolt in. I do need to splice the old fj60 low fluid connector though onto the new lid which I didn't have time to do this evening.
Looking good
Please post a bigger picture of the engine bay, I'm curious about that black canister??
G
Please post a bigger picture of the engine bay, I'm curious about that black canister??
G
- Thread starter
- #478
Cheers,
Are you towing, or is the standard system a little lacking?
G
Are you towing, or is the standard system a little lacking?
G
Great work, very inspiring! Just had a quick, purely cosmetic comment on your momentary glow switch. We had a momentary push button installed by the PO, but was underneath the steering column. I always thought it was ugly and looked out of place. I found a factory momentary glow switch that I believe came from a BJ40. I cleaned it up and repainted the lettering, and Mike wired it up and installed it in an open dash slot. Good little cosmetic upgrade and gives a real nice factory look to the dash, at least I think so. Anyways, something to think about.
The old switch:
