Builds 1985 JDM 3B Engine Rebuild and Other Stories (1 Viewer)

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Oil strainer
Next up: oil line feed and return lines for the block. The strainer sucks in the oil from the sump and feeds to the oil pump at the front of the engine in the oil pump case housing. It then goes through the system with a number of relief valves and by-pass feed location. Then returns through the main return line to the sump.

Gaskets needed:

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A general overall routing of oil through a 3B. Good for reference.

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OIl Pan Installation
Oil pan was installed next. There are two options on the oil pan: one with a cork gasket and one with just 00295-00103 ThreeBond FIPG. I'm a suspenders and belt kinda guy, so I used the cork gasket along with the FIPG. Cork gasket went onto the block dry except for the front and rear corners. The pan attached to the cork gasket with FIPG in the pan valleys and around the bolt heads.

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Installed my start-up and break-in oil filter. This is a large oil filter from a 7M-GTE turbo Supra engine. A very nice Japanese filter nicely suited for breaking in.

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Getting closer...

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Interesting. Looks like not all the oil is passed thru the cooler? And it looks like the piston oil squirters are not active at low oil pressure/idle. The old VW turbo diesels are the same way.
 
Lifters and IP installation.
Lifters installed. They received a nice coating of assembly lube. They slide right in. Tight fit, but perfect.

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RH side of the engine with the lifter cover installed. Again, here, there are two options: cork gasket or FIPG. I chose both. :)

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Next up was installation of the IP. Needs this O-ring that mates with the time case.

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Two studs ready to meet the IP. The internals are coated with assembly lube as well. The IP shaft is coated with assembly lube and the mating gear splines are also coated in assembly lube. It's not a direct fit though. I had to rotate the crank a bit to get it so the gears matched the gears of the IP input shaft. Then it slid right in. I mated the IP to the case making sure to match up the scribes I put in on both sides to match them up on install.

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And here we have the LH side of the engine. Engine mount is installed as well.

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Crankshaft pulley
Next, the crankshaft pulley was mated together. Pulley is 2 pieces. New bolts were used. These are critical considering the rotating mass. I used red Locktite on these guys.

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Water pump gasket and water pump installed as well.

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@landwagon getting the engine ready to pull off the engine stand for final prep before install:

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Engine off the stand and hanging. :) Feels good to get momentum.

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Flywheel and bolts
Pilot bearing was installed into the crank.

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Then the rear end plate was installed.


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Next the new machined flywheel was slid onto the back of the crankshaft.

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I don't like reusing hardware like this. I got 6 new flywheel bolts. Interestingly enough, the part number stays the same (see below) but the bolt does change from a 6 point bolt head design to a 12 point bolt head design. The bolt also changes over to a TTY one-time-use bolt only.

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Clutch parts
You can see here that the FSM has very specific installation method for the flywheel:

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Next was installation of the clutch disc and pressure plate. Pretty straight forward. I always get new OEM bolts (90119-08134) for the pressure plate to flywheel interface. These are another location where I don't reuse hardware.

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And finally installing the block into the truck and mating with the H55F. This took a bit of d1cking around but @landwagon muscled the engine in in one fell swoop. The dude abides.... :)

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And resting on the engine mounts. A long day finally completed.

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Hey, what do you run for an alternator? 12V? I'm cleaning out, and have a couple NOS Denso Alternators, they are for the W04 series, but they look like they'll bolt in.

24V externally regulated, Brian.

Thanks for thinking of me man!

@FJ60Cam rebuilt mine. It's beautiful now. Highly recommend Cam's alternator and starter rebuild services if you ever have a need. Quick turn around and very reasonably priced IMO.

:)

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Hey Onur, great work! Doesn't hurt to have help either I bet. @landwagon is a gentleman for landing a helping hand there. I should be ashamed of myself cause I am less than one hour away and he came all the way from WV.
I like your chain fall setup. The engine lifts are crap. I almost killed myself when I pulled my engine with the Harbor Freight chicom unit. I have a brand new 2T chain fall and available steel cribbing, just need to install it in my garage.
Anyhow, great work, keep it coming.
 
Hey Onur, great work! Doesn't hurt to have help either I bet. @landwagon is a gentleman for landing a helping hand there. I should be ashamed of myself cause I am less than one hour away and he came all the way from WV.
I like your chain fall setup. The engine lifts are crap. I almost killed myself when I pulled my engine with the Harbor Freight chicom unit. I have a brand new 2T chain fall and available steel cribbing, just need to install it in my garage.
Anyhow, great work, keep it coming.
Thank you, I’ve been out enjoying the state today, it’s beautiful.
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24V externally regulated, Brian.

Thanks for thinking of me man!

@FJ60Cam rebuilt mine. It's beautiful now. Highly recommend Cam's alternator and starter rebuild services if you ever have a need. Quick turn around and very reasonably priced IMO.

:)

Ahhh, ok, no problem. These were inexpensive and even have the vacuum pumps... figured those alone were worth it.
 
Onur,

Pease forgive my question below I advance.

I realize your no longer in the parts finding business and you have been collecting parts since 2016, but looking for a lead on a gasket. Its the oi filter mount gasket.

Thanks eitherway,
Ernie
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Onur,

Pease forgive my question below I advance.

I realize your no longer in the parts finding business and you have been collecting parts since 2016, but looking for a lead on a gasket. Its the oi filter mount gasket.

Thanks eitherway,
ErnieView attachment 2330112

Its seems to be NLA from Toyota, PartsSouq and CruiserParts. So I have gone down the obvious channels.
 
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