Builds 1985 BJ70 Story and Modifications (2 Viewers)

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A few months ago, I purchased a set of early/mid 1990's 70 series axles (both front and rear) with factory Toyota E-lockers from Barry (OilHammer).

The front is a 70 series high-pinion axle with factory Toyota E-locker and 4.11 gears. The axle is set-up with leaf spring mounts (it came with the leaf spring mounts from factory) and electric locking hubs.

The rear is a 70 series Full-Floating rear axle with factory Toyota E-locker and 4.11 gears.

Since my truck did not come equipped with the electric locking hub wiring harness, I will be replacing the electric hubs for a set of standard AISIN manual locking hubs. After reading many threads about buying adapter plates to install manual locking hubs, or modifying the stock electric locking hubs to activate manually, I called Wayne (crushers) and had a quick conversation with him about this.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/70-series-tech/327662-lj78-prado-axle-service-how.html

Wayne mentioned that since I had all the parts from the old (9.5" axle) I could change from the spindle out and keep my current AISIN locking hubs. The spindles are different (electric vs. manual) but the bolt pattern to the knuckle are the same.

By doing all this work, I would gain:

1. Both axles with 4.11 gears (my current axles have 3.73 gears)
2. Factory Toyota E-lockers front and rear
3. Full-Floating rear axle

I know that this will generate some differences in opinions as I will be replacing a stronger 9.5" front axle for a smaller (perhaps weaker) 8" high-pinion front axle. However, my reasoning for doing this, is that I purchased the whole axle (assembled) with e-locker and gears, and this truck will be dedicated for mild-medium duty trails. I have a BJ40 in the garage waiting its turn to be modified that will be designated for severe-hard duty trails. I will keep the 9.5" front and rear on the BJ40, but will go along with the high-pinion for the front BJ70.
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I had a fiasco with this set up of electric manual hubs. They are nice until everything goes wrong with them.
The previous owner of my 77 had done the "cheap and easy" conversion that used adapter plates. When I ripped into my front wheel bearings this spring I hated the little torx screws that held the wheel bearing mechanism or something in. They were horrible and unobtanium from what I am told.

The best thing to do is to get proper manual locking hubs, hub/spindle assembly. You will understand why if you have to rip into the electric ones.
 
I had a fiasco with this set up of electric manual hubs. They are nice until everything goes wrong with them.
The previous owner of my 77 had done the "cheap and easy" conversion that used adapter plates. When I ripped into my front wheel bearings this spring I hated the little torx screws that held the wheel bearing mechanism or something in. They were horrible and unobtanium from what I am told.

The best thing to do is to get proper manual locking hubs, hub/spindle assembly. You will understand why if you have to rip into the electric ones.

Agreed. The conversion to AISIN manual hubs is already done. I need to catch up posting the photos. Omar (omarluis) did most of the tear down of the electric hubs and he did say that the torx bolts were a pain to remove. We did not take a whole lot of photos of the tear-down and assembly process as it is fairly simple, but as you might know, it is a messy job.

Thanks for the comments!

-Alberto
 
Brother lei que ibas a ir para Moab con fernando y omar?? Los conozco de cruiserheads, yo voy a estar en Moab probablemente entre el 15 y 22 de este mes montando bicicleta con dos panas! Si estaras alla avisame pa tomarnos una cervecita y ver ese 70!!
 
So we started by removing all the AISIN manual locking hubs parts while the axle was still under the BJ70. It makes it easier to remove bolts when the axle is securely attached as the axle will not spin when trying to break the bolts loose.

A while ago, I purchased a set of used AISIN locking hubs that were in good working condition. I sent them to "waskillywabbit" to get them reconditioned prior to starting the whole axle swap. The goal was to have all the parts "ready" prior to dissasembly so there would be no down-time in the process. "Waskillywabbit" does great work and the hubs came back looking like new. You can see some of his work at:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/merchandis...d-aisin-manual-hubs-new-used-refurbished.html
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And then we removed the 9.5" front axle from the truck and installed the E-locker axle.

You can see Omar (omarluis) already working on the electric to manual locking hub swap. Kudos to you, Omar!!

Finally, I got a set of free wheels from Tony (itbrokeagain) here in Cincinnati. Thanks, Tony!

https://forum.ih8mud.com/sale-parts/594404-free-62-wheels.html

I had the wheels sandblasted and will get painted Tan 4E9 like the body color. Here you can see the wheels already sandblasted when I dropped them at Jeff's to get painted :bounce:
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I purchased a turbo kit from Turbo-Glide (Turbo-Glide: Welcome to Turbo Glide) for the BJ70. The turbo came with everything you need to do the conversion (except the exhaust down pipe).

I have done some reading of Turbo-Glide installs and they seemed to be fairly straight-forward:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/372834-turbo-glide-installation-1982-bj42.html

As you probably know, all 3B are notorious for cracking the pre-combustion chambers. My BJ70 has about 340,000 Kms and I didn't feel comfortable dropping the turbo without at least inspecting the pre-cups. Catastrophic engine failure can occur if the cracked pre-cups drop into the cylinder.
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Prior to starting all the heavy work, I added a Dixon-Bate 3.5-Ton Tow Jaw to the front ARB bumper :)

You can see how the garage started to become smaller and smaller...not sure how that happened...:whoops:

Do you have a backing plate behind the Tow Jaw? I didn't know the bumper would be strong enough for that.
 
Prior to start working on the rear axle, Omar, Fernando, and I decided to start working on pulling the head to inspect the pre-cups. By doing this, we will be able to send the head to the machine shop to replace the pre-cups and get it re-surfaced and work on the rear axle while the head was in the shop.

I ordered a new set of pre-cups from RooDogs 4wd spares in Australia:

TOYOTA 3B DIESEL PRE-COMB CHAMBERS SET OF 4 - Buy TOYOTA 3B DIESEL PRE-COMB CHAMBERS SET OF 4 from Roodogs 4WD Spares

And got a Genuine headgasket kit from Beno...Thanks Onur!!!!
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Do you have a backing plate behind the Tow Jaw? I didn't know the bumper would be strong enough for that.

Yes, I made a backing plate that it is actually bigger than the Tow-Jaw itself. However, I agree with you, I don't think the bumper will be strong enough for hard pulls.
 
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Took a photo to remember the correct order of the fuel injection pipes and the head without the manifolds.

The machine shop will:

1. Replace the pre-combustion chambers
2. Magnaflux the head and check for cracks
3. Pressure check the head
4. Complete a valve job
5. Replace the valve stem seals
6. Resurface the head after installing the new pre-cups
7. Replace the freeze-plugs on the head

I like how you find the TEQ emblem everywhere in these engines.
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That is very pretty! Those wheels look much better. Those nice shiny red dials on the hubs really stand out now

Sent from my Nexus S using IH8MUD
 
E-lockers in both front and rear of 8" axles? Interesting as I ony thought came in rear.
 

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