1985 BJ70 CND refubishing and modifications
- Thread starter crushers
- Start date
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crushers
post ho
- Thread starter
- #282
i use the chain lift to install the head. it is heavy and if you happen to have it slip then it is time for a new head gasket and maybe damage to the head or parts ... why risk it?
wipe down the head and block, set gasket in place facing the right way, lower head, torque bolts according to manual ...
head installed.
wipe down the head and block, set gasket in place facing the right way, lower head, torque bolts according to manual ...
head installed.
crushers
post ho
- Thread starter
- #283
then it is time for the rockers
a dab of engine grease on each end of the push rods as well as the top of the valves
back off all the lock nuts and screws
set rocker assembly on and torque the bolts down
set TDC and set valves, rotate and set the other valves
lock and install the cover...
a dab of engine grease on each end of the push rods as well as the top of the valves
back off all the lock nuts and screws
set rocker assembly on and torque the bolts down
set TDC and set valves, rotate and set the other valves
lock and install the cover...
crushers
post ho
- Thread starter
- #284
rebuilt injectors
new gaskets, brass spacers, a dab of antiseaze, torque to PROPER settings, you don't need to over tighten them.
sand blast the return line and inspect and paint.
the reason i am sandblasting most of the parts is to be able to inspect for weaknesses or damage or corrosion. the paint on this engine hides a lot of issues as we have seen through out the rebuild.
the original glow plugs to be replaced.
new gaskets, brass spacers, a dab of antiseaze, torque to PROPER settings, you don't need to over tighten them.
sand blast the return line and inspect and paint.
the reason i am sandblasting most of the parts is to be able to inspect for weaknesses or damage or corrosion. the paint on this engine hides a lot of issues as we have seen through out the rebuild.
the original glow plugs to be replaced.
crushers
post ho
- Thread starter
- #285
sand blast and inspect the thermostat housings
paint and install with new thermostat and gasket
install the temp senders, i wanted to use the factory for the factory gauge as well as a location for aftermarket so i retapped the brass T fitting so the fittings would seat down lower into the T. after market to the rear.
that is it for today ... tomorrow turbo, intercooler and maybe even sitting in the chassis.
paint and install with new thermostat and gasket
install the temp senders, i wanted to use the factory for the factory gauge as well as a location for aftermarket so i retapped the brass T fitting so the fittings would seat down lower into the T. after market to the rear.
that is it for today ... tomorrow turbo, intercooler and maybe even sitting in the chassis.
lowenbrau
SILVER Star
Reminds me of the sig line of a guy in another forum I frequent...
"I hope, when I die, that my wife doesn't sell all my stuff for what I told her I paid for it."
"I hope, when I die, that my wife doesn't sell all my stuff for what I told her I paid for it."
Great post and lots of inspiration to us all. Thank you.
What is that white rebuilding lube which you use so liberally?? I take it that it's compatible with both engine and gear oil??
I used to use MS grease on engine and gear box builds including bearing shells, but heard that it's a no no. Now I just use the respective oil’s to rebuild, but it’s bloody messy. What’s the story???
What is that white rebuilding lube which you use so liberally?? I take it that it's compatible with both engine and gear oil??
I used to use MS grease on engine and gear box builds including bearing shells, but heard that it's a no no. Now I just use the respective oil’s to rebuild, but it’s bloody messy. What’s the story???
crushers
post ho
- Thread starter
- #291
this "grease" comes with the engine rebuild kit. it is compatible with engine oil, gear oil etc. white grease. i will see if i can find the actual name.
i love the stuff. stick it on, fire it up, the oil washes it off, same with the t/case.
been using the stuff for decades and seems to work very well.
i love the stuff. stick it on, fire it up, the oil washes it off, same with the t/case.
been using the stuff for decades and seems to work very well.
crushers
post ho
- Thread starter
- #293
i almost forgot the wabasto that is being installed.
normally you just cut into one of the heater hoses. the wabasto works on heat convection so in from the lowest point on the block and out near the thermostat so it will open and allow full circulation.
the block drain at the rear of the engine is the lowest spot on the cooling system, sadly it is very small so i enlarged the hole, threaded and installed a 1/2" spigot for feeding the wabasto.
i then made up a custom pipe to run up to the thermostat housing that is insulated from the cold to retain the heated water.
pics of that later.
normally you just cut into one of the heater hoses. the wabasto works on heat convection so in from the lowest point on the block and out near the thermostat so it will open and allow full circulation.
the block drain at the rear of the engine is the lowest spot on the cooling system, sadly it is very small so i enlarged the hole, threaded and installed a 1/2" spigot for feeding the wabasto.
i then made up a custom pipe to run up to the thermostat housing that is insulated from the cold to retain the heated water.
pics of that later.
crushers
post ho
- Thread starter
- #294
when i am drilling into a block i use magnets to catch the filings ...
as you can see it works pretty well.
then i use a longer metal item with a magnet attached to reach inside the hole to catch any other pieces that might have found their way in.
when doing this go in a bit, back out, clean, repeat. the more you repeat the less you will get inside.
another way is to use grease on the drill bit and tap to trap the filings, same proceedure as the magnet, in a bit and clean and repeat.
as you can see it works pretty well.
then i use a longer metal item with a magnet attached to reach inside the hole to catch any other pieces that might have found their way in.
when doing this go in a bit, back out, clean, repeat. the more you repeat the less you will get inside.
another way is to use grease on the drill bit and tap to trap the filings, same proceedure as the magnet, in a bit and clean and repeat.
I wish I had 1/1000th of your knowledge on a rebuild like this. Wealth of knowledge following this build.
Hey Wayne,
Can I eliminate that fuel filter and use the one that comes into the firewall with the 2LTE instead?
I think this is a very similar product,mainly white lithium grease.Can be found at most automotive stores as well as Acklands .Been using it for over 20 years, great stuff.
http://www.Lubriplate.com/products/.../lubriplate-No-105-Motor-Assembly-Grease.aspx
Beautiful job Wayne on the truck and the women...
gives me a warm heart in artic weather
keep up the good work. digging the attention to detail!
