1985 BJ70 CND refubishing and modifications

[lugueto]

Your workmanship is second to none, Hope to see the end result. Im still eager to see the end result for the troopie youre also restoring


Cheers

 

[RAYJON]

nice job wayne am always impressed with your attention to detail, love the powder coat on the frame and axles nice way to do it.. we used to paint the engine compartments in our race cars a light color as any issues show up instantly.. suprizing what black hides.. Tan is perfect..

I get the rust thing, been looking online at what it takes to cure it and its alot of work.. I can weld and do body work and what is involved in just fixing the top rail is 20+hrs in just metal work. You mention the cruisers from eastern canada, how about the ones from western canada, looking at a bj70 near Seattle that came from your side of the border.. do they have the same frame and body issues?? I couldn't find a good thread on inspecting one just peices here and there..

thanks again for help and for posting pix of your progress I know it takes time and we all apreciate it..

BTW, I found several sources overseas for the 14b and 14bt we were talking about.. prices wern't that bad even with shipping..

 

[n0ferz]

the running boards test fitted
roof rack clears the snorkel

Hey Wayne,

You have mad skills!! I really like everything you have done to this truck. I want to know what model is this snorkel in the page 6 pictures??

I also made a thread asking if the LC70 series oem snorkel will fit my lj71 truck?

 

[crushers]

that is a factory snorkel
it will fit your truck fine but you wll need to modify where t attaches to your airbox.
if you do a search there is a thread where i fit a Safari into a LJ71 and a LJ78 ...
cheers and thanks for the compliment, appreciated.

 

[land bruiser80]

you started out with a camel toe? lolol

 

[crushers]

well, it has been a while ....
the owner and I discussed protecting the rear floor for when he loads items inside.
a 3/8" thick plastic is my solution. this will sit between the floor and the seats so a spacer will need to be created to keep the strength in place.
this is really nice to work with since you can score it easily with a knife and then just snap it off.
to get the profile, you measure out from the item into a template. do this often and you will end up with a close curve to transfer over. once you have all the dots then make a line, cut, transfer, score, snap and then next ...

 

[crushers]

i use a level to score with on the longer cuts, it seems to hold better.
mark for the recesses, score an X, snap

sadly i could only find blue but it will have a removable floor cover.

 

[crushers]

the decision to go with beige gauge mount over the black.
the black is nice but both the owner and helper and myself decided that beige compliments the interior better.

 

[crushers]

the cam was reground to spec
the aluminum parts are sand blasted and ready for the PC ...

 

[crushers]

the block came back cleaned of all the grease, most of the paint, new frost plugs through out.
etching primed.
high heat close to factory blue paint color (in 1988 they went to a red block)

 

[crushers]

picked up the PC today ...

 

[crushers]

this guy must have come in on one of the boxes ...

 

[crushers]

when rebuilding an engine with an oil cooler it is a good idea to have it clean and then inspect.
this one had that beautiful ... something ... attached to the walls and once it was removed you could see the pitting and erosion of the aluminum. a couple of the pits were quite deep but still not through. if the penetration was much deeper then there would be coolant contamination of the oil.
not good.

 

[crushers]

two choices
order a new oil cooler housing for $587 (obsolete)
or
use some liquid steel and repair ...

this stuff is machinable once it hardens, is resistant to heat and oil and antifreeze so away we go. the finish inside doesn't need to be perfect, it just needs to keep the 2 fluids seperated.

done

 

[crushers]

install the rear seal prior to assembly and it makes for a very easy install ...
the kit comes with ALMOST everything you need to rebuild the 3B.
pistons assembled and ready to be installed...

 

[crushers]

don't be scared to lay the prelube on ... it just washes out with the oil on start up.
do the block bearings but don't lube the uppers just yet, you want to plasti gauge the clearences.
well within spec

now lube up the uppers and bolt down according to spec.

 

[crushers]

next up is the pistons

 

[crushers]

wipe out the cylinders with a clean lint free rag.
then apply a liberal amount of oil to the walls.
make sure the notch in the piston is facing forward.
when installing i tap the metal ring compressor tight against the block, then using the rubber handle i tap the piston into the hole. DO NOT hit hard since IF the ring was to pop out of the compressor before sliding into the cylinder cavity you could snap that ring. easy does it on every step of the rebuild. patience. if something isn't going easy then find out why.
once the rings are inside the cylinder then you can reach around and guide the piston over the crank CAREFULLY. once seated then remove the protectors, install the prelubed end cap and finger tighten the nuts.

 

[crushers]

make sure the rings are installed properly.
i noticed that in the factory manual it doesn't cover the ring positioning.
the oil ring opening is 90 degrees to the opening of the first compression ring and the top compression ring is 180 degrees to the second ring.
other wise you can end up with a nasty situation of the compression being low and oil blow by happening.

just a word of caution.

 

[crushers]

clean and assemble the oil pump, use plenty of lube again ...

NOTHING that rubs on something else should be dry installed. seals front and rear, bearings, rings, anything that moves gets lubed.