Another option. On the passenger side door lock there is the key code for the truck. Get the code and take it too the dealer for a fresh set of keys. Some lock smiths can do this too. Then, have a lock smith re-pin the ignition cylinder.
Builds 1984 Pickup Rebuild
- Thread starter Mudder
- Start date
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Another option. On the passenger side door lock there is the key code for the truck. Get the code and take it too the dealer for a fresh set of keys. Some lock smiths can do this too. Then, have a lock smith re-pin the ignition cylinder.
- Thread starter
- #382
I was thinking of ordering one from Amayama since it is so much cheaper. I swapped my door locks for aftermarket ones years ago so I’ve had two keys for a while now anyways. Last time I went to the local locksmith they charged $170 for two door locks to be redone.
- Thread starter
- #384
New ignition lock ordered from Amayama, it should be here in March. I also ordered some RCV front axles, front and rear diffs and I should be getting the FROR Tacoma brake kit ordered this month. I'm having some issues with the IFS hubs and how the rotors/calipers sit not being true and it causing some overheating problems with the brakes.
I'm also trying to figure out how to get my high beam indicator to work without having anything plugged into the passenger side headlight harness. Truthfully I have no clue how to do this so I hoping I can get some help. Right now just the driver side headlight plug is used then it goes to a sealed relay that was supplied with the HID kit I'm using.
I'm also trying to figure out how to get my high beam indicator to work without having anything plugged into the passenger side headlight harness. Truthfully I have no clue how to do this so I hoping I can get some help. Right now just the driver side headlight plug is used then it goes to a sealed relay that was supplied with the HID kit I'm using.
One of the cruiser shops on this site sells a plug in fix for the high beam indicator.
What's going on with the hubs and rotors?
What's going on with the hubs and rotors?
- Thread starter
- #386
Cruiser Trash sells the HBIM that I was running. Mine burned out due to me not cleaning the stalk (known issue) and I'm trying to see if I can make it work for less than another $40.
The rotors are getting overheated by the brake pads and are discolored due to the calipers not being true top and bottom with the rotors.
I didn't know about the plug in solution for the high beams when I did mine and I altered the wire to the high beam bulb on my truck. I'd have to go back and look at my post to see what I did. It was pretty easy...IF your dash is apart enough to get to the harness.
- Thread starter
- #392
Got the rear differential installed. Just waiting on gear oil to show up and I’ll be driving it. I’ll be running 85w-140 since it has a 5 year warranty with ECGS. The front is being built so I won’t have 4wd until I get it in too.
Brand new Yukon V6 carrier with 5.29s
They sent two of these warnings in the packaging
Ended up cutting a second hole in the dash for the switch. The other one is for the front locker when it arrives. Figured I had everything out so I may as well do both of them.
The wiring harness they include is nice and fully sealed. The o my downsize is you have to cut away their protective cover to shorten the harness from the locker to the relay. This will be an issue with the front because I will have to shorten it otherwise I’ll have 6 or 7 feel of it coiled up in the engine bay.
Fully installed, used gear oil RTV instead of a gasket. If it leaks I’ll replace it all with a live locker gasket as I’ve had good luck with them on other rigs.
Brand new Yukon V6 carrier with 5.29s
They sent two of these warnings in the packaging
Ended up cutting a second hole in the dash for the switch. The other one is for the front locker when it arrives. Figured I had everything out so I may as well do both of them.
The wiring harness they include is nice and fully sealed. The o my downsize is you have to cut away their protective cover to shorten the harness from the locker to the relay. This will be an issue with the front because I will have to shorten it otherwise I’ll have 6 or 7 feel of it coiled up in the engine bay.
Fully installed, used gear oil RTV instead of a gasket. If it leaks I’ll replace it all with a live locker gasket as I’ve had good luck with them on other rigs.
- Thread starter
- #393
One note worth adding, from time to lock to engagement is about a 1/4 turn of the wheel on 35s and if you get to reverse it takes another 1/4 turn for it to relock. While this isn’t a big deal to me, I like knowing because I don’t want to shock load the carrier by trying to activate it and hitting high rpms too quickly when pushing through snow.
- Thread starter
- #394
I’ve put about 50 miles on the new diff and it’s amazing. Replacing the old one got rid of a vibration I had and the power to the wheels feels better and it keeps it in the power band better.
My old diff was also messed up when as when I spun one tire in the air the other tire wouldn’t spin at all in the opposite direction and the driveline would only turn one tire when I spun it by hand.
My old diff was also messed up when as when I spun one tire in the air the other tire wouldn’t spin at all in the opposite direction and the driveline would only turn one tire when I spun it by hand.
- Thread starter
- #395
With the 5.29s and 35s my speedometer was reading 5 over at all speeds. Used an equation that was supplied by a speedometer cable website and figured out I needed a 20 tooth speedometer gear. I happened to have one in my 1989 Toyota pickup that has an A350H transmission and now the speedometer is spot on at all speeds.
One thing worth noting, when you pull your old gear if it says 6 and 18 on it, it means the gear itself is 18 teeth and the gear inside of the transmission is 6 teeth.
speedometercablesusa.com
One thing worth noting, when you pull your old gear if it says 6 and 18 on it, it means the gear itself is 18 teeth and the gear inside of the transmission is 6 teeth.
What Gear Do I Need - Speedometer Cables
speedometercablesusa.com
- Thread starter
- #396
Has anyone had any luck with swapping instrument cluster words? I’m finally changing from an 89 cluster back to an 85 and I’d like to add the word “Cruise” in place of “AT Oil Temp” so it lights up in the gauge cluster when cruise is activated. At first I was planning on cutting and glueing but I don’t know how to remove the old words so the new one will show properly and I really don’t want to damage one due to how much they cost at this point.
littlevulture
SILVER Star
I wanna say the words are part of the masking on the front and the back is just a tinted film to color the light from the bulbs. There’s people on eBay selling replacement masks for the front of the dash, replacing that panel with an appropriate new one might work.
- Thread starter
- #398
Attached. Crap, it's too big. Let me split it into three pages.
