I'm trying to attach and MUD won't let me. I keep getting a "server error."
Builds 1984 Pickup Rebuild
- Thread starter Mudder
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #403
Thank you both! I was hoping one of you had it so I didn’t have to order one off of eBay for one project.
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- #404
Huge thank you to @pappy and @gnob! Using the information they supplied I was able to depin the 89 connectors and get them in the correct spot on the 88 gauge cluster. I originally thought it was 85-86 as advertised but the tach was from a V6. Did the 10k resistor mod and dialed the tach on too. I ended up wiring my cruise control light to the back door light for now while I look for a new mask or find someone who does custom ones (Thanks to @littlevulture for teaching me that term).
Adapter for the oil pressure gauge is on its way too. That way I can have the factory gauge and my aftermarket one working.
I did find out that the input seal on the transmission is leaking and the steering box is leaking still. New steering box seal kit from Toyota is on its way and the transmission I’m trying to figure out. Yota1 offers rebuilt transmissions and has core in stock, Marlin only offers rebuilds if you send it in and wait 2 months.
Adapter for the oil pressure gauge is on its way too. That way I can have the factory gauge and my aftermarket one working.
I did find out that the input seal on the transmission is leaking and the steering box is leaking still. New steering box seal kit from Toyota is on its way and the transmission I’m trying to figure out. Yota1 offers rebuilt transmissions and has core in stock, Marlin only offers rebuilds if you send it in and wait 2 months.
littlevulture
SILVER Star
What transmission do you have? If it’s a R150/R151 a R155/R156 from a 2005+ 2TR Tacoma is dimensionally identical and should bolt up to the 3RZ. Theoretically a R151 tail housing could be swapped to get the old RF1A mounting pattern and you’d end up with a low mileage OEM transmission for less than $2000 plus any little internal improvements they’ve made over the years.
- Thread starter
- #406
I may have to look into a setup like that with an adapter to an RF1A. Currently I’m running a W-56B that’s definitely getting old. The shifts are notchy, there’s some weird whine in 3rd that goes away if I apply a little bit of pressure to the shifter, and the leaking oil like I mentioned.
littlevulture
SILVER Star
Instead of an adapter you could also go with an ecocrawler doubler which can be ordered with the mounting pattern for a R155/R156 on one end and the RF1A on the other. Dunno what those adapters cost right now but it’s probably similar overall cost.
- Thread starter
- #408
Has anyone had luck with getting the trip reset apart from these trucks? I’m wanting to put the trip reset gears from an 89 into the older cluster since most of the numbers are worn off. I’m assuming I need to put out the metal bar but I also don’t want to be dumb and break it.
I've done it. I think I followed a youtube video. I matched my original mileage when I put the SR5 cluster in with the gauges and tach. It was tedious but I did it.
- Thread starter
- #410
Ended up just having to hit the metal poles a bit harder. The gears from the 89 aren’t cut the same so it would reset to 444 instead of 0. I wish there was a company making reproductions of these because the paint that Toyota used for the numbers is awful.
I had a sticker company make me a vertical
0-9 number reel that I rolled onto each dial. Turned out OK, the stickers could have been a tad smaller but I wasn’t going for perfect as the ones on this unit were completely gone. I will dig up that cluster tomorrow and snap a picture. Now the million dollar question of what company? No idea as it was 5 or 6 years ago. I do remember having to reach out to a handful of different sticker companies because most of them didn’t want to do it. Eventually found one that would help me out. Hope this helps
0-9 number reel that I rolled onto each dial. Turned out OK, the stickers could have been a tad smaller but I wasn’t going for perfect as the ones on this unit were completely gone. I will dig up that cluster tomorrow and snap a picture. Now the million dollar question of what company? No idea as it was 5 or 6 years ago. I do remember having to reach out to a handful of different sticker companies because most of them didn’t want to do it. Eventually found one that would help me out. Hope this helps
- Thread starter
- #412
I’d be curious to see how they turned out. I’m also wondering if I can find a solid airbrush artist to redo mine. I was really hoping the one from the 89 would work as they’re in near perfect condition. Oh well.
I didn’t take many photos but I took the truck out of commission for at least a week or two. The front axle is torn down and ready for the new HP 8” that’s on its way. I’ll also be doing the FROR Tacoma brake kit, ARP hub studs and knuckle studs, RCV axles and hub gears.
The interior is torn out again, I knew I should’ve replaced all the foam in the AC and heat systems but I thought it would be fine. Turns out I was dead wrong, there’s been a smell (like rodent pee) stuck in the foam so I’m redoing all the foam (huge thanks to @aztoyman for covering it well in his build thread
Builds - 86 Xtra Cab Build (4Wheelunderground 3 link front, 4 link rear and 3.4 swap) - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/86-xtra-cab-build-4wheelunderground-3-link-front-4-link-rear-and-3-4-swap.1256336/post-15504674), new heater core and new AC evaporator core. I also found out the my floor board vent wasn’t even closing all the way which explains why defrost was meh during the winter time.
The old foam was falling apart badly. I was able to wash most of it off with hot water.
Everything torn down and ready for a hot wash with dawn dish soap.
Post in thread '86 Xtra Cab Build (4Wheelunderground 3 link front, 4 link rear and 3.4 swap)'
I didn’t take many photos but I took the truck out of commission for at least a week or two. The front axle is torn down and ready for the new HP 8” that’s on its way. I’ll also be doing the FROR Tacoma brake kit, ARP hub studs and knuckle studs, RCV axles and hub gears.
The interior is torn out again, I knew I should’ve replaced all the foam in the AC and heat systems but I thought it would be fine. Turns out I was dead wrong, there’s been a smell (like rodent pee) stuck in the foam so I’m redoing all the foam (huge thanks to @aztoyman for covering it well in his build thread
Builds - 86 Xtra Cab Build (4Wheelunderground 3 link front, 4 link rear and 3.4 swap) - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/86-xtra-cab-build-4wheelunderground-3-link-front-4-link-rear-and-3-4-swap.1256336/post-15504674), new heater core and new AC evaporator core. I also found out the my floor board vent wasn’t even closing all the way which explains why defrost was meh during the winter time.
The old foam was falling apart badly. I was able to wash most of it off with hot water.
Everything torn down and ready for a hot wash with dawn dish soap.
@Mudder (or anyone else) do you know if there's a big difference between the '89 trip reset and the '95 SR5 trip reset? I have one lying around in pretty good condition and could send to you if 1) you don't want to deal with the hassle and 2) the trip resets didn't change between the years. Feel free to PM me if you wanna chat more. Hope the swap works out.
- Thread starter
- #414
@The Toad, I was trying with a set of wheels from an 89 Toyota pickup to get into the 88 gauge cluster and it mounts differently so when you put in the new gears it’ll only show 444.4 on the reset. If I had to guess 84-88 (and 89 4Runner only) interchange and then 89 pickup through 95 interchange. I appreciate the offer though!
Got the new foam installed and a new heater core since I had disturbed the original o rings and it looks amazing. The only issue I’m having is that the blend doors for the feet and defrosts don’t fully shut on my truck and I don’t see a way to adjust them outside of bending the doors.
I also added some foam on the white plastic part that the vents attach to I did this in hopes to help seal the system better and I had enough extra laying around.
Before
After
Got the new foam installed and a new heater core since I had disturbed the original o rings and it looks amazing. The only issue I’m having is that the blend doors for the feet and defrosts don’t fully shut on my truck and I don’t see a way to adjust them outside of bending the doors.
I also added some foam on the white plastic part that the vents attach to I did this in hopes to help seal the system better and I had enough extra laying around.
Before
After
- Thread starter
- #415
Spent all day working in the front axle. Got it all back together, shortened the wiring harness and test fit all 4 wheels. With the old IFS hub setup I had to run front wheel spacers to clearance the calipers, the FROR setup I don’t which is super nice! I was hoping to drive it but I dropped the blower motor housing and cracked it to hell. One from eBay is on the way.
The biggest issue with the FROR kit is there are no instructions. I didn’t know you didn’t need a backing plate until after I thought I had the passenger side done and only found out thanks to a pirate4x4 thread from 09 where it was mentioned during the product release.
8” HP from ECGS with 5.29s and a harrop locker
RCVs and new hub gears
I’m trying out the trail gear spindle nut kit. I accidentally stripped one small screw so I’ll have to deal with that next time I’m taking it apart. I did upgrade to ARP knuckle and hub studs which was a nice touch.
4Runner brake calipers and rotors. No backing plate is used so I’m going to have to figure something out for the brake line.
Got the factory oil pressure gauge and my aftermarket one plumbed today as well. Had to grind the AC bracket for clearance.
The biggest issue with the FROR kit is there are no instructions. I didn’t know you didn’t need a backing plate until after I thought I had the passenger side done and only found out thanks to a pirate4x4 thread from 09 where it was mentioned during the product release.
8” HP from ECGS with 5.29s and a harrop locker
RCVs and new hub gears
I’m trying out the trail gear spindle nut kit. I accidentally stripped one small screw so I’ll have to deal with that next time I’m taking it apart. I did upgrade to ARP knuckle and hub studs which was a nice touch.
4Runner brake calipers and rotors. No backing plate is used so I’m going to have to figure something out for the brake line.
Got the factory oil pressure gauge and my aftermarket one plumbed today as well. Had to grind the AC bracket for clearance.
for the tg nut set, update the hardware to socket heads. button heads are good for nothing.
for the brake line capture use the thin braket from the backing plate that bolts between the caliper and plate use a p-clamp to catch the line
for the brake line capture use the thin braket from the backing plate that bolts between the caliper and plate use a p-clamp to catch the line
- Thread starter
- #417
Yeah, the button heads are awful. Next time I have the locking hub off I’ll upgrade. The passenger side kicked my ass so and I don’t want to dig back in for a while. I think the passenger side took me 5 hours and the drivers was 1. I did everything wrong, installed the hub studs the wrong way, forgot the wheel bearing before installing the hub seal and other stuff.
I like the idea of using part of the backing plate. I ended up taking that but I still out the spot welds for the old caliper bracket, cut part of it off and drilled out one of the spot weld holes so it mounts with the caliper bolt.
I like the idea of using part of the backing plate. I ended up taking that but I still out the spot welds for the old caliper bracket, cut part of it off and drilled out one of the spot weld holes so it mounts with the caliper bolt.
- Thread starter
- #418
I did get a new dash pad from @TRFarmers. I figured with the dash apart again it was a good time to replace it and be done with squeaks that the old one had. I hope this is the last time for a few years I pull the dash apart. I got all new hardware from Toyota to help secure it close to original.
- Thread starter
- #419
Dash has been finished up and I’ve gotten about 200 miles on the truck. Having a front and rear locker is amazing. There’s a tough spot I’ve always had to bypass and I was able tot take it with no issues even though it was muddy and slick out.
The new foam in the AC system has made a huge improvement on air flow. I also ended up swapping the duct box for a different one I had as all the doors closed like they should. There are a lot less squeaks and rattles now and I have an appointment for Tuesday to get the AC charged up.
During the process I broke the rear view mirror. I used a piece of metal to help secure it again. It’s been working just fine so far.
I also retightened the wheel bearings and upgrade to socket head hardware as @gnob suggested.
The new foam in the AC system has made a huge improvement on air flow. I also ended up swapping the duct box for a different one I had as all the doors closed like they should. There are a lot less squeaks and rattles now and I have an appointment for Tuesday to get the AC charged up.
During the process I broke the rear view mirror. I used a piece of metal to help secure it again. It’s been working just fine so far.
I also retightened the wheel bearings and upgrade to socket head hardware as @gnob suggested.
- Thread starter
- #420
Took a little trip into the snow. Found a downed tree that was blocking the road and rotten so I hooked the winch up and moved it to get passed. This 9.5ti works well but the brake system is screwed up and doesn’t hold line tension. Not a problem if you expect it but less than ideal.
If I can’t find the brake parts I may pull the bumper and modify it to fit the 8274. The powder coating job that was done is already flaking off in spots so I don’t mind getting it redone.
I ended up getting sucked into a drainage ditch and had to use both front and rear lockers to get out. After that I turned around since there was lightning, hail and high winds. These tires still impress me, especially once they’re around 5 psi in the snow.
Overall shot
If I can’t find the brake parts I may pull the bumper and modify it to fit the 8274. The powder coating job that was done is already flaking off in spots so I don’t mind getting it redone.
I ended up getting sucked into a drainage ditch and had to use both front and rear lockers to get out. After that I turned around since there was lightning, hail and high winds. These tires still impress me, especially once they’re around 5 psi in the snow.
Overall shot
