Builds 1984 Pickup Rebuild (4 Viewers)

[aztoyman]

I like the bumper. Tack a washer at the head end of the bolts and weld in the void from the back side. What color are you going with?

I've done the same thing with the same spacer. It will get you by.

 

[Mudder]

I like the bumper. Tack a washer at the head end of the bolts and weld in the void from the back side. What color are you going with?

I've done the same thing with the same spacer. It will get you by.

I’ll remember the washer trick next time. That would’ve worked a lot better than outlining the washer with sharpie. I went with matte black on the bumper. The place I went to does a lot of bumpers for a company in town so they had the color in stock.

 

[Mudder]

Winch bumper, winch, and turn signals are mounted/done. I had to cut the grill to fit the winch which isn’t a big deal to me. Just waiting on some battery cable connectors to show up and the winch will be wired. I’m using 1/0 for the power and ground and will be wiring it to a 500 amp solenoid controlled by an in-cab switch so it doesn’t always have power.

Drill out some holes in my marker lights and bought some Dorman 194 bulb connectors. I made them a push fit and they are definitely a tight fit, if one falls out I’ll be siliconing them in place. They’re plenty bright in person, the photos don’t do them justice.

 

[Mudder]

Knocked a bunch more off the to do list

New window channel runs
Rear window latch fixed
Rear view mirror light cover replaced
Fixed a vacuum leak from the seals around the injectors
New throttle cable and speedometer cable
Winch wired up with 1/0 wiring and a 500 amp relay triggered by a in cab button that’s fused from the factory Taco fuse box
Installed HID headlights from HID Kit Pros

Toyota still offered the factory cover for around $8 so that’s what I went with.

I also pulled the IAC valve and cleaned it. Now my idle is around 1400 rpm, I’m going to give it some time to see if it works itself out and if not I’ll buy a new one from Toyota. It’s definitely the valve as when I pinch off the air hose going to it, the truck dies.

 

[Mudder]

One issue I had after the HID install was no high beam indicator due to one of the headlight plugs not being used. I was doing some research and came across this solution from @CruiserTrash. Plugged it in today and back in business! I can confirm that this works for 1989 Toyota pickup wiring.

HBIM - High Beam Indicator Module for Koito Headlight Upgrade Kit

The High Beam Indicator Module: So you bought the Koito Headlight Upgrade Kit - "the best $35 you can spend on your FJ40/60" - but now the indicator for the high beams doesn't work. Annoying! Here's the fix. This has been designed to work seamlessly with Toyota's stock wiring system for...

cruisertrashparts.com

I also installed two new mil spec battery terminals from Napa today. I couldn’t handle them being mismatched and I wanted mil spec on both sides with how my positives and grounds are wired.

 

[aztoyman]

I wish I knew about the high beam module back when I installed the Koito headlight upgrade in mine. I ended up doing a harness mod while I was doing dash work.

 

[CruiserTrash]

One issue I had after the HID install was no high beam indicator due to one of the headlight plugs not being used. I was doing some research and came across this solution from @CruiserTrash. Plugged it in today and back in business! I can confirm that this works for 1989 Toyota pickup wiring.

HBIM - High Beam Indicator Module for Koito Headlight Upgrade Kit

The High Beam Indicator Module: So you bought the Koito Headlight Upgrade Kit - "the best $35 you can spend on your FJ40/60" - but now the indicator for the high beams doesn't work. Annoying! Here's the fix. This has been designed to work seamlessly with Toyota's stock wiring system for...

cruisertrashparts.com

View attachment 3797800View attachment 3797801

I also installed two new mil spec battery terminals from Napa today. I couldn’t handle them being mismatched and I wanted mil spec on both sides with how my positives and grounds are wired.View attachment 3797802

Glad that worked for you!

@aztoyman Even if your path was a little more difficult, at least you got the problem solved!

 

[gnob]

One issue I had after the HID install was no high beam indicator due to one of the headlight plugs not being used. I was doing some research and came across this solution from @CruiserTrash. Plugged it in today and back in business! I can confirm that this works for 1989 Toyota pickup wiring.

HBIM - High Beam Indicator Module for Koito Headlight Upgrade Kit

The High Beam Indicator Module: So you bought the Koito Headlight Upgrade Kit - "the best $35 you can spend on your FJ40/60" - but now the indicator for the high beams doesn't work. Annoying! Here's the fix. This has been designed to work seamlessly with Toyota's stock wiring system for...

cruisertrashparts.com

View attachment 3797800View attachment 3797801

I also installed two new mil spec battery terminals from Napa today. I couldn’t handle them being mismatched and I wanted mil spec on both sides with how my positives and grounds are wired.View attachment 3797802

mil spec or marine are my goto.

 

[jgranthevagrant]

@Mudder. Giant red cable goes to winch?

 

[Mudder]

mil spec or marine are my goto.

They’re definitely the way to go for the bigger items. It’s also helpful that I can use the taco fuse box as my fuse box for any additional circuits I install to help keep everything cleaner looking.


@jgranthevagrant, yes. I’ve got 1/0 going from the battery, to a 500 amp solenoid, then to the winch. I had extra 1/0 laying around and the winch needed a new battery cable so it’s what I used.

 

[Mudder]

Went and saw some snow last night. It went really well until some very soft snow was found and I realized once again why I need lockers. Turned a 3 hour trip into 12 when it was over with. Overall, this truck did amazing and these tires worked really well at 10 psi and even better at 5. My next to dos are 5.29s, harrops, and a HP front diff.

 

[aztoyman]

Too bad you didn't have a set of chains for the occasion. Still a fun time I hope. What tires do you have?

 

[pappy]

Went and saw some snow last night. It went really well until some very soft snow was found and I realized once again why I need lockers. Turned a 3 hour trip into 12 when it was over with. Overall, this truck did amazing and these tires worked really well at 10 psi and even better at 5. My next to dos are 5.29s, harrops, and a HP front diff.

I have only one thing to add to this. Tirechains.com.

 

[Mudder]

Too bad you didn't have a set of chains for the occasion. Still a fun time I hope. What tires do you have?

I had forgotten my chains at home and a shovel. Truthfully I wasn’t expecting 4’ of snow up there yet. I’ve got 35x12.5r15 Yokohama geolander MTs. Last time I took this truck up I had KM2s and they aren’t even in the same league

 

[Mudder]

Next on my list is differentials and lockers. Debating between doing them myself or buying pre-built and being lazy since they cost almost the same. Also buying pre-build allows me to run a high pinion 8" in the front which would be nice. However that brings me to a question, what is the best gear ratio to go with having a 3rz? The biggest tire size I'll run is 37's and that a long ways off, currently I'm happy with my 35's. I know 5.29's used to be the big thing with the 22re but when comparing gear ratios, tire size and rpms I wonder if 4.88's would be better in the long run since they're strong (unless that's a myth) then 5.29's.

This engine is requires downshifting for anything above 65 mph if I find a hill and I'm below 3k rpms so I end up in 4th gear a lot. Which makes 5.29's putting 70mph at 3k in fifth appealing but I also drive this truck more at 60 mph than 70 at the end of the day. Which still puts me in 4th gear anyways as that's where it feels best.

Here's some comparisons, Left is W56 Trans, 4.56's and 35's Right is W59 4.10's and 31's as if it was a stock Tacoma

Left is W56 Trans, 4.88's and 35's Right is W59 4.10's and 31's as if it was a stock Tacoma

Left is W56 Trans, 5.29's and 35's Right is W59 4.10's and 31's as if it was a stock Tacoma

Left is W56 Trans, 4.88's and 35's Right is W59 4.10's and 31's as if it was a stock Tacoma

Left is W56 Trans, 5.29's and 37's Right is W59 4.10's and 31's as if it was a stock Tacoma

 

[gnob]

keep in mind 5th is overdrive. not really a "gear"
heavy loading 5th will eventually launch it.
imo 4.56/4.88 is right for 37s

also the speed thing. do you actually need/want to be driving 80+? my 4runner started getting a bit sketch over 70. that and soft suspension doesn't work out awesome for evasive maneuvers

 

[aztoyman]

A 3RZ can really push 37's with 4.56 gears? Sounds like a torquey little engine. I never had one. I had the 2RZ or whatever my 2002 Tacoma base 2WD had.

My 22RE and 35's needed 5.29's. My KM3's weren't actually 35" and I don't remember my RPM range. It "might" have been ok with 4.88's but I was totally happy with it as my DD on my work commute. 50/50 surface streets and 75 MPH freeway. The low range handles anything on the trail.

When I swapped in the 5VZ I think 4.88's would have been better as I was wanting lower revs on the freeway. I have R150F gears from a 2nd gen 4Runner in my trans and I never got my tach to work so I don't have that data. I just found myself often reaching for another gear on the freeway. Now that I have 37's the 5.29's might be ideal. IDK yet as I haven't driven it much other than around the block a few times.

 

[Mudder]

keep in mind 5th is overdrive. not really a "gear"
heavy loading 5th will eventually launch it.
imo 4.56/4.88 is right for 37s

also the speed thing. do you actually need/want to be driving 80+? my 4runner started getting a bit sketch over 70. that and soft suspension doesn't work out awesome for evasive maneuvers

Haha, the most I do is 75 in this thing and it is a bit sketch. Most highways around me are still 60 but there’s a few at 70. I was leaning more towards 4.88s and I think that’s what I’ll end up with

@aztoyman, the 3rz is definitely impressive over the 22re. I remember barely pushing 60 with a headwind with 4.56s and 31s due to the weight of my rig. However I can run 70 with 35s and 4.56s with no issues. These tires are also pretty true at being 35’s.

 

[RichardSkinner]

I'm loving my 3RZ, but I won't BS, it's still a 4 banger. Personally, I gear with that in mind. You gotta keep revs up in this kind of engine.

I just came from 5.29 w/ Cooper STT Pro 35". They actually measure 34.5". It was pretty dang good IMO. Those RPM numbers look accurate, but I wouldn't shoot for "stock" RPM as the goal. Turning the heavier tires definitely saps some power and staying higher up in that horsepower band helps. ie the 2900-3100 RPM range, but not screaming it.

I live in the foothills and and am pulling grades a lot on the highway to get up to the trails. The combo above was match about perfectly. I could hold 5th fine in flat and slight hills, would drop to 4th for any decent hills, and real steep stuff I'd struggle to stay in 4th. As in, I really had to keep momentum and in the power band. If someone F'd my momentum up it takes some serious time to spin back up into the power band if you can. I'm talking those 6-8% grades which are considered steep for the interstate system.

I just recently (within the last month) went to 37" Micky Thompson Baja Boss MTs and beadlocks. True measurement is 36.75" tall. Definitely considerable added mass and obviously diameter. For drivability, I think 5.29 is the way to go on this size for sure. I haven't done a lot of freeway at all since the new wheels, but 5th is definitely more a struggle in the foothills. 4th is where I will live a lot more up here now, I am sure. 1st gear is noticeably faster coming off the line at lights.

My truck has been on jackstands to be worked on since the new wheels, and when it isn't I've trailered it up to snow run, so don't have a good feel for highway yet.

 

[Mudder]

@RichardSkinner , that was perfect timing to post that. I found out I have some verticals play in my rear differential flange so I’m looking at a new diff sooner than I thought. At this point it will be pre-built ones from ECGS so I can just swap them and be done.

I did get some random stuff done. Tracked down my steering box leak to the adjustment nut washer (I forgot to tighten it), replaced that with a Toyota one for $15.

Applied some 20% window tint to my stereo. I had 5 at first but when the sun came out it was too dark. I’m not sure if 20 will be dark enough with google maps up. The blue was pretty bright to my eyes so I may try 15 or 10 if I can find it

Also found water on the passenger side floor board. I think it was from snow but I had a rust spot around the grommet that was there so I put some gorilla sealing tape on it to hopefully fix it.

Also swapped out the stainless steel fairlead bolts for some black ones. It looks a lot better to me.