Build 1984 Pickup Rebuild
- Thread starter Mudder
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- #442
I removed the EGR and EGR tube when I went to the new mini header. I’ve also removed all the drive belts and test drove it and it’s still present.
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- #444
I do. I wonder if watching the rear O2 sensor would show anything. It sounds like it’s before it. I also wonder if it’s why I have a random dead throttle when taking off sometimes.
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- #446
It’s a drop in MAF. I’ve tried a different Toyota TPS and the same issue. It’s only in first gear when it drops off. It acts like it stalls and then takes off
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- #448
I scheduled a time to other a mechanic who taught me how to work on vehicles to look at it for the ticking. I’ve spent days hunting and welding leaks up so I need some fresh eyes and ears on it I decided.
Has anyone ran the AA T case housing? I’m wondering if it would be worth it and to just convert my forward shift to a top shift for the front case and use the AA housing in the rear. this truck will rarely see rocks so if a stock Toyota case is fine I’ll keep looking for one instead.
advanceadapters.com
Has anyone ran the AA T case housing? I’m wondering if it would be worth it and to just convert my forward shift to a top shift for the front case and use the AA housing in the rear. this truck will rarely see rocks so if a stock Toyota case is fine I’ll keep looking for one instead.
TOYOTA P/U REDUCTION HOUSING
Heavy Duty Toyota Truck gear driven transfer case gear reduction housing.
advanceadapters.com
I have not but I probably would. I thought about getting one when they have been on sale just to have a spare. I have been running their TX2 adapter for a long time. Not as pretty as a Marlin or TG but it works.
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- #450
It looks solid and AA has been around for a long time. I would’ve gone with their adapter but I bought my MC08 back in 2016 and it’s been sitting in the shelf since then waiting for me to use it
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- #451
I thought I had a drop in maf but now I’m questing it. When I look up the part number it shows the entire assembly. I have the 5 wire MAF and not the 3 wire one. Do you think a later model on will be interchangeable? I’ve been looking for threads on it and keep finding for the 3.4.
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- #453
I cleaned the MAF and it seemed to help. I’ll keep an eye on it and if needed I’ll order a new one from Toyota. I also picked up another t case. It’s a forward shift but it was only $150 for it. I’ll convert it and the other forward shift I have to top shifts and build my duals.
I was talking with a mechanic friend about it and he suggested I use chassis ears to help find the exhaust leak I’ve been fighting. It only happens under load on a road. With the chassis ears it took less than 30 minutes to find it. I hooked up all 6 leads around the exhaust and had a control one in the middle on the transmission crossmember. In the second photo there’s a lead with a blue band on it, when listening to that channel it’s the loudest. It’s definitely coming from where the manifold connects to the down pipe on that side.
At this point I’m going to remove the clamp that holds it to the transmission to see if that’s applying a weird load under torque allowing it to happen. I’ll also try to tighten it more.
I was talking with a mechanic friend about it and he suggested I use chassis ears to help find the exhaust leak I’ve been fighting. It only happens under load on a road. With the chassis ears it took less than 30 minutes to find it. I hooked up all 6 leads around the exhaust and had a control one in the middle on the transmission crossmember. In the second photo there’s a lead with a blue band on it, when listening to that channel it’s the loudest. It’s definitely coming from where the manifold connects to the down pipe on that side.
At this point I’m going to remove the clamp that holds it to the transmission to see if that’s applying a weird load under torque allowing it to happen. I’ll also try to tighten it more.
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- #455
Well with the constant 90s to 100s we’ve been getting I’ve noticed that my fan clutch doesn’t disengage. I know years back I changed the fluid for thicker fluid so I’m sure that’s it but it’s still betting high up on the temperature gauge when pulling long steep hills. I took it up a local hill that gains about 2,000 feet in 6 miles and has a few switchbacks and it got close to overheating. It also was slow.
I had to downshift to 3rd gear, hit 5k rpms which was 60 mph then I could go back to 4th until the next switchback. I was never able to hit higher than 60 and I couldn’t accelerate in 4th gear either. My hope is to make it to cruise Moab next year and with that in mind I’m looking at either a supercharger or a turbo setup otherwise it’s getting trailered. The supercharger kit from LCE is a pretty penny (4k) and I think I could do a homemade turbo kit for half that.
For cooling, I’m planning on doing what @liveoak did and use a 2wd 3.0 radiator and the bigger 3rz fan to help with the overheating. I wish I would’ve had my OBD setup to see what the actual temp the computer was seeing.
One thing I am happy about is it’s getting between 14-16 mph with daily driving and mountain driving. I can’t complain with the 35’s and 5.29’s.
Going through old photos I found one of a buddy’s 84 in high school next to mine when it was on 31s
Same place 10 years later
I had to downshift to 3rd gear, hit 5k rpms which was 60 mph then I could go back to 4th until the next switchback. I was never able to hit higher than 60 and I couldn’t accelerate in 4th gear either. My hope is to make it to cruise Moab next year and with that in mind I’m looking at either a supercharger or a turbo setup otherwise it’s getting trailered. The supercharger kit from LCE is a pretty penny (4k) and I think I could do a homemade turbo kit for half that.
For cooling, I’m planning on doing what @liveoak did and use a 2wd 3.0 radiator and the bigger 3rz fan to help with the overheating. I wish I would’ve had my OBD setup to see what the actual temp the computer was seeing.
One thing I am happy about is it’s getting between 14-16 mph with daily driving and mountain driving. I can’t complain with the 35’s and 5.29’s.
Going through old photos I found one of a buddy’s 84 in high school next to mine when it was on 31s
Same place 10 years later
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- #456
New radiator, fan shroud, fan clutch and fan installed. I copied @liveoak and use a Liland 2 row 3.0 radiator, a 2rz fan shroud modified to fit on the 3.0 radiator. I used a 3rz fan and fan clutch and some 1/2 thick foam to seal the gaps I had. My fan blade are pretty close so I’m hoping that doesn’t cause me issues off road. I have about 1/8th of an inch of clearance on the drivers side.
Tomorrow’s high is almost 100 so I’m planning on hitting the same 6% grade and seeing how it does this time.
Comparison of the 3rz vs the 22re fans and clutches.
Tomorrow’s high is almost 100 so I’m planning on hitting the same 6% grade and seeing how it does this time.
Comparison of the 3rz vs the 22re fans and clutches.
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- #457
Major life changes happened and a move to the Portland area, however I can say that the upgraded fan is the way to go. I haven’t had any overheating problems since doing it. I’ve been making slow progress. I don’t have a shop to work on stuff locally so I’m limited but still working it all out.
One thing I needed to do was fix any leaks I’ve got a we’re not allowed the park in certain areas of our vehicles leak, with this in mind I found a late 90s IFS box and sent it to Red Head Steering fto be overhaul plus drill and tap to replace my leaky one. Shipped it there and got it back in less than a week. I’ve had good luck with them on other vehicles and it felt better than supporting Trail-Gear.
I also ordered the RADesign triple sticks. I’ve been wanting them for a long time for dual cases and finally pulled the trigger as I should be building duals on a month or two. The only dislike I have is the knobs. I’m thinking of going with NWFab knobs and adapting them to fit the RAD sticks. I’m assuming the RAD ones use a metric thread while the NWFab knobs are 1/2 NC according to their website. I also ordered all new bearings for the transfer cases from Advanced Adapters as both of my spare ones have been outside for a while
I will gripe a bit about the overall availability of parts for these trucks compared to what it used to be. The only stronger output shaft is now made by TG. RCV and MC have discontinued their offerings. I never liked supporting TG but it’s becoming harder with the way things cost and that other vendors aren’t offering the support they used to. TG also has a leg up by letting other company’s sell their parts for the same price but with free shipping. A good example is dual cases crossmembers. TG is $400 with free shipping from Jegs, Skys is $600 with shipping and Bud Built is $575 shipped.
One thing I needed to do was fix any leaks I’ve got a we’re not allowed the park in certain areas of our vehicles leak, with this in mind I found a late 90s IFS box and sent it to Red Head Steering fto be overhaul plus drill and tap to replace my leaky one. Shipped it there and got it back in less than a week. I’ve had good luck with them on other vehicles and it felt better than supporting Trail-Gear.
I also ordered the RADesign triple sticks. I’ve been wanting them for a long time for dual cases and finally pulled the trigger as I should be building duals on a month or two. The only dislike I have is the knobs. I’m thinking of going with NWFab knobs and adapting them to fit the RAD sticks. I’m assuming the RAD ones use a metric thread while the NWFab knobs are 1/2 NC according to their website. I also ordered all new bearings for the transfer cases from Advanced Adapters as both of my spare ones have been outside for a while
I will gripe a bit about the overall availability of parts for these trucks compared to what it used to be. The only stronger output shaft is now made by TG. RCV and MC have discontinued their offerings. I never liked supporting TG but it’s becoming harder with the way things cost and that other vendors aren’t offering the support they used to. TG also has a leg up by letting other company’s sell their parts for the same price but with free shipping. A good example is dual cases crossmembers. TG is $400 with free shipping from Jegs, Skys is $600 with shipping and Bud Built is $575 shipped.
i don't think anyone has ever actually "needed" the upgraded output shaft.
that said, i recently diagnosed a case that wouldn't shift between 2/4 because of an improperly machined tq output. ymmv
you're much more likely to launch the rear case input vs output.
that said, i recently diagnosed a case that wouldn't shift between 2/4 because of an improperly machined tq output. ymmv
you're much more likely to launch the rear case input vs output.
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- #460
Good to know about the improperly machined one. Truthfully I was just going to upgrade due to being in there but I’d rather break a stock output then give TG money for one. I’ll watch your RAD video, I actually watched your dual case assembly video so I could get an idea of what I was looking at.