Builds 1984 Pickup Rebuild

[aztoyman]

So are you staying with the 4.56's and just replacing this diff or going to 4.88's on both? Lockers?

 

[Mudder]

So are you staying with the 4.56's and just replacing this diff or going to 4.88's on both? Lockers?

I’m probably going 5.29s and Harrops. I’m planning on a high pinion front and a 4 cylinder rear differential. Not having lockers has screwed me off road in the snow a few times. Skinners post hit close to home as I’m at the base of foothills as well and have a few 6-8% grades around me.

I remember the 22re, 4.56s and 31s being miserable and sometimes actually slowing down to let a semi over so they didn’t have to slow down because of how little power I had. That grade was 6% for 6 miles and the posted speed is 70.

 

[aztoyman]

You've obviously been seriously considering YOUR use and definitely did your research. If you're in between 4.88 and 5.29 it sounds like the 5.29's are a better fit for your application. It would suck to have to go back to 33's. And now you have an excuse to go 37's.

 

[aztoyman]

If you're worried about the strength of 5.29's, I built my own diffs with the gears Trail Gear sold back in 2010 ish. Daily drove my truck to work 24 miles with half at 80 MPH, the other half in stop and go traffic on surface streets.

I wheeled it hard quite a bit too.

I have Aussie Lockers and one of them I bought used.

I do recommend solid pinion spacers.

 

[gnob]

I’m probably going 5.29s and Harrops. I’m planning on a high pinion front and a 4 cylinder rear differential. Not having lockers has screwed me off road in the snow a few times. Skinners post hit close to home as I’m at the base of foothills as well and have a few 6-8% grades around me.

I remember the 22re, 4.56s and 31s being miserable and sometimes actually slowing down to let a semi over so they didn’t have to slow down because of how little power I had. That grade was 6% for 6 miles and the posted speed is 70.

spend the extra $3 for the v6 rear

 

[aztoyman]

I know there's a ton of threads saying the V6 diff isn't really stronger but they are definitely a beefier housing. The gears are "close" to being the same. I think the pinion bearing is bigger on the V6. It's been years since I had the two side by side. The rotating housing is 4 pinion VS 2 for the 4 cyl. but the rotating housing will get replaced with the locker so that isn't an issue.

 

[gnob]

I know there's a ton of threads saying the V6 diff isn't really stronger but they are definitely a beefier housing. The gears are "close" to being the same. I think the pinion bearing is bigger on the V6. It's been years since I had the two side by side. The rotating housing is 4 pinion VS 2 for the 4 cyl. but the rotating housing will get replaced with the locker so that isn't an issue.

the gears are the same v6/ifs rears.(lph vs sph 79-85) all the bearings are bigger and the housing is much beefier. the v6 and hp diff share bearings as well.

 

[Mudder]

The only reason I was going to for the 4 cylinder rear is that’s what I had for the Core. I’ll see if I can track down a V6 for a reasonable price for the core charge instead of eating $450.

 

[aztoyman]

$450 is a lot to me as well. ECGS won't give you partial core credit for the 4 cyl diff?

 

[aztoyman]

I think I grabbed mine from 2nd gen 4Runners.

 

[Mudder]

$450 is a lot to me as well. ECGS won't give you partial core credit for the 4 cyl diff?

They may. I have an 8” IFS diff in the front I was planning on sending in. I may just send it and worst case I eat the $450 as the initial search on Fb marketplace (disgusting) didn’t show much on my side of the state.

I’m not a fan of sending in wrong votes but I’m also not a fan of doing the same thing twice because I cheaped out the first time. My original goal was front diff and RCVs but the RCVs will have to take a back seat on this one.

 

[aztoyman]

Plenty of people ran the 4-cylinder diff with big tires. I'd run the V6 if I had one. Running the 4cyl diff isn't guaranteeing a failure though.

Stock birfs with big tires......

 

[gnob]

keep in mind basically all 4runners 96+ are technically the same v6 diff as well.

 

[Mudder]

Plenty of people ran the 4-cylinder diff with big tires. I'd run the V6 if I had one. Running the 4cyl diff isn't guaranteeing a failure though.

Stock birfs with big tires......

I plan on upgrading the birfs as soon as I can. I just don’t have the extra 1k on top of 5k for diffs to do it all at once.

 

[aztoyman]

I totally get it. I thought this stuff was expensive years ago. It's crazy what stuff costs today.

 

[Mudder]

I totally get it. I thought this stuff was expensive years ago. It's crazy what stuff costs today.

At one point I had a build sheet I made back in 2017 with prices and I remember remaking it last year and it was crazy how much everything went up.

For those who have upgraded Birfs, I noticed RCV has two sets now. There’s the standard 30 spline with the 300M race upgrade or you can get upgraded inner axle shafts that are 300M for a few hundred more (800 vs 1k at ruffstuff). Which would be the better option? This rig isn’t wheeled hard in rocks but that could change eventually. The plan would be to also go with the 4340 inner hub gears or the 300M inner hub gears if those are the better way to go too.

 

[aztoyman]

I thought the hub gears were part of the axle package now?

I have no experience with the 300M other than I read that it's better.

I'm still running my TG Dirty 30's from way back when. They've held up to 35's and hopefully will handle the 37's. I have the stronger inner axles. They came with the Birfs back then. Buying the Chromoly hub gears was required to get warranty. I bought the inner and outer hub gears as a set back then.

 

[Mudder]

Looking at getting a new ignition cylinder from Toyota so it works like it should since it’s worn out and I’m wondering if anyone knows the difference between these two part numbers. They both are listed to fit the truck but I haven’t found a reason and the local parts people haven’t been any help.

 

[gnob]

appears to be a supercession

Toyota 69057-89108 (6905789108) CYLINDER AND KEY SET, IGNITION SWITCH LOCK

Toyota 69057-89108 (6905789108) CYLINDER AND KEY SET, IGNITION SWITCH LOCK. New & genuine Japanese car parts. Fast shipping. Low prices. Request a quote from Amayama Trading Co. online.

www.amayama.com

Toyodiy.com will not pull the 95708
that said, this is the number i used in the 85

 

[pappy]

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I can tell you the 69057-95708 is a good number. The only issue with this cylinder is it takes a different key blank that will not match the truck. You will have two keys. One for the ignition. Another for the doors. I bought mine at Amayama and they are currently selling for around $62 delivered to the USA.