Builds 1984 Pickup Rebuild (2 Viewers)

[Mudder]

do you mean turn the drum when disengaged?
answer is yes.
8274 does, its just heavy vs a planetary

Yeah, that’s what I was asking just in a way more complicated way. Thank you for clearing that up for me!

Here’s the wiring diagram. If you have the old connector the white wire is black. The other colors are still the same.

This video was also really helpful for asssembly.

 

[pappy]

These winches are incredibly easy to work on. Plus, you can get parts.

 

[Mudder]

These winches are incredibly easy to work on. Plus, you can get parts.

Part of the reason I have only warm winches is for the parts! I even send them an email about parts for this as one of the seal packages has been discontinued. They sent me a whole list with each part number and where I could buy it from as well as that manual for it. Really hard to beat that kind of service.

 

[Mudder]

Finally circling back to this project. I’m still on the lookout for a new cylinder head or drop in engine, but everything I’ve found looks like a POS or has some issue or another.

One issue I had on the 12 mile drive is that it is still loud. Too loud. A BBF Ford with true dual exhaust is quieter and so is my old diesel. I think it’s coming through the shift hole, with swapping from a W-56C to a B I had to cut more and now it doesn’t seal right. Which means I need to figure something out. So far I’ve come up with

• Swap in a new trans tunnel section (don’t really wanna mess with it and screw up the paint and sound deadening)
• Use some MLV sound deadener over it to help block noise from coming through that is also removable. I like the option the most as I want this truck to be silent almost, or at least as quiet as my other vehicles.

Does anyone have any better options or has tried one of these ideas and found it to not work well?

This is how it looks, there’s a pretty good gap going.

 

[Mudder]

I’m hoping the collective minds of ‘Mud can help me. Will an engine wiring harness from an 89-95 22RE work on any year or does it need to be specific to the year? I know I’ll need one for an Auto ECU unless I buy a manual ECU as well.

I’m tired of not driving this thing and the cylinder head has been a royal PIT A to deal with. I thought I had a line on one only to have the guy stand me up after driving 6 hours to go look at it.

 

[gnob]

I’m hoping the collective minds of ‘Mud can help me. Will an engine wiring harness from an 89-95 22RE work on any year or does it need to be specific to the year? I know I’ll need one for an Auto ECU unless I buy a manual ECU as well.

I’m tired of not driving this thing and the cylinder head has been a royal PIT A to deal with. I thought I had a line on one only to have the guy stand me up after driving 6 hours to go look at it.

89-95 is pretty much the same. 91.5 they updated terminals and stuff. that may not matter on the engine side but will on the body interface.
the biggest deal is matching injectors and ecu era. but again 89+ should all match in that aspect.

 

[Mudder]

89-95 is pretty much the same. 91.5 they updated terminals and stuff. that may not matter on the engine side but will on the body interface.
the biggest deal is matching injectors and ecu era. but again 89+ should all match in that aspect.

Sweet, I remembered something about injectors and thought that was an 88 things. I’ve been seeing harness for around $300 on eBay so I’ll keep an eye out for the right one and pay attention to the body harness connectors.

 

[aztoyman]

The 88 is a thing. I have one and it's said to be a bastard child. It's a one year only for the ECM, injectors and the igniter I think. I don't know if the connectors are any different.

 

[Mudder]

Life made me start working on this truck again. The transmission in the Daily is going out and with the weather changing, motorcycles aren’t going to be an option much longer. The original plan was to use a factory head from LCE but that’s out of the cards due to time and money. Due to that I started looking at eBay and I found a promising listing from CF-Power and ordered the head. Holy hell this thing is way better than the other Chinese head I bought, the ports have no extra casting flash in them, the camshaft buckets are the OEM style, and they put a bolt in the exhaust camshaft gear to keep it tensioned.

I’ve also got a new timing cover, oil pump relief spring, and seat (thanks @pappy for posting about the 2RZ vs 3RZ oil pressure issues) on the way. I’ll also be replacing the coolant lines this time. I may also replace the camshafts with a set from Toyota for peace of mind (unless someone has an extra OEM set they’d be willing to sell).

I can’t remember if I mentioned this, but during the initial test drive I only had one transmission related code and it was for the ATF temp sensor. I’m not sure if 12 miles was enough to set transmission shift codes or not (I assume they would’ve popped up) but I think this time all the code will be defeated and the cruise control working. My resistor for the ATF sensor had broken and that’s what cause it I believe.

 

[Mudder]

I’ve been looking at the factory Toyota Camshafts and I’m hoping someone may know the answer, there’s two intake camshafts, one for 1995-1998 and the other is for 1999-2004. The 95-98 part number is 13501-75903 and the 99-04 part number is 13501-75902.

I haven’t been able to find any information on the differences, does anyone know by chance what they are? The 98 motor is a non-distributor motor as well.

 

[gnob]

just looks like a supercession number change

 

[Mudder]

Took advantage of the Toyota parts sale and ordered everything I needed. All new hoses, heater control valve, oil pump, harmonic balancer, the 2rz oil pressure relief spring, and both the intake and exhaust camshafts. I also threw a rebuilt Denso starter in from RockAuto as I don’t wanna do that with the intake runners on.

The nice thing about the Toyota camshafts if they come with the gears and the exhaust camshaft already has the service bolt in it.

 

[Mudder]

Spent some time today working on it.

Head is on, timing cover on, oil pan back on and the new oil pressure sensor is mounted. I didn’t get photos but I had to modify the drivers side motor mount like @RichardSkinner did,
Post in thread 'RockGoat Version 3RZ'
Builds - RockGoat Version 3RZ - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/rockgoat-version-3rz.1310912/post-15116488
Otherwise you can’t get the lower alternator bracket out without jacking up the engine which means you can’t remove the damn crank sensor.

I had to do a bit of grinding the block to get the clearance needed for the new oil pressure sender but it is good to go now.

Planning on mounting the gauge here since my old coin holder was broken.

 

[pappy]

Spent some time today working on it.

Head is on, timing cover on, oil pan back on and the new oil pressure sensor is mounted. I didn’t get photos but I had to modify the drivers side motor mount like @RichardSkinner did,
Post in thread 'RockGoat Version 3RZ'
Builds - RockGoat Version 3RZ - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/rockgoat-version-3rz.1310912/post-15116488
Otherwise you can’t get the lower alternator bracket out without jacking up the engine which means you can’t remove the damn crank sensor.

I had to do a bit of grinding the block to get the clearance needed for the new oil pressure sender but it is good to go now.
View attachment 3755996View attachment 3755997


Planning on mounting the gauge here since my old coin holder was broken. View attachment 3756000

Get the pillar gauge pod from LCE.

 

[Mudder]

Get the pillar gauge pod from LCE.

I had thought about that but with only adding one gauge I wanted something more low profile. If I add more gauges it’s definitely the way I’ll go. For monitoring coolant I plan on using the factory 3rz computer and my phone with torque pro.

Final product, I thought about redoing it to make the left side better but said screw it for now.

Bunch of new hoses, my plan is to replace all of them. Right now all I have left is the EVAP ones. For the heater valve to the cylinder head I bought the gates 19111 hose from rockauto (12 for the hose) and cut it down as the factory hose was $80 from my local dealer and $55 from Serra Toyota.

I did finally get a new set of feeler gauges. I’ve been wanting this set for a while and finally pulled the trigger, paid $115 for it all. I’m not a huge Snap-On fan but I loved the idea of handles and that it came with 3 different styles of feeler gauges.

They’ll be handy for the valve clearances. I’m waiting on a metric micrometer before I install the camshafts so I can measure all the shims before hand. Then I’ll install the camshafts and run the Toyota calculations for what shims I need and move them around.

 

[Toast]

No such thing as too many temperature gauges…. Ever plan on doing on board air? There’s 2 gauge ideas right there. I have the pillar pod and love it. Just sayin…

 

[Mudder]

No such thing as too many temperature gauges…. Ever plan on doing on board air? There’s 2 gauge ideas right there. I have the pillar pod and love it. Just sayin…

I don’t plan on an OBA system. I have the Milwaukee tire inflator for tires and have electric ratchets and impacts as well.

 

[Mudder]

Got all the clearances measured and I'll hopefully only need to order a few shims. I created a document to do all the math for me and it turned out really well and cut down a lot of time with figuring out what shims I needed where.

 

[Mudder]

It’s alive again! Oil pressure with the 2rz bypass is amazing. Holds 60 psi at 2k rpm and I haven’t seen below 20 at idle. I also defeated the auto trans check engine lights with the resistors. The cruise control is also working thankfully.

The truck is still ungodly loud at 60 mph and I need to fix it. I think most of the sound is coming through the transmission tunnel hole at this point.

 

[Mudder]

I’ve put over 59 miles on it, it’ll comfortably do 75 in 5th gear which is really nice. The 2rz oil relief spring is definitely the way to go if you’re doing a balance shaft delete, at 70mph in 5th (tach doesn’t work which is another issue) oil pressure is a solid 60 psi. I had to remove the steering stabilizer as the first time it flexed it hit the oil pan. I have a check engine light for a P0401 that I’m working on troubleshooting, there’s a pending coat for the torque converter lockup, and the cruise control is acting up.

The cruise control will work and set. A few seconds after setting it acts like it’s getting an input for brakes and clicks off and starts flashing the cruise control light at me. I’m guessing it’s a loose wire somewhere. As for the torque converter lockup code, I need to research that one to see if I can beat it.

There’s also some rattles and window seals that need addressing to help cut down on some road noise. I’m planning on getting some Dynapad to go under the carpet and over the transmission opening to help remove more noise.