Builds 1984 Pickup Rebuild

[RichardSkinner]

It does suck but at least I got to drive it almost 12 miles before it happened . After thinking about it last night, I’m going to send this head off to a machine shop and make sure that the camshaft journals are within spec and the camshaft is truly level. I’m worried that there may be a machining issue that caused the camshaft to bind that wasn’t apparent during assembly.

The other good news is that I have no transmission shift codes but I do have one for the temp sensor. I’ll have to mess around with the temp sensor resistor to get it to go away once it’s running again. I do plan to strip the front end apart and fix the body damage that was bothering me. Plus the sector shaft from the steering box is leaking ATF so that’ll get fixed.

I'm a pretty noob engine builder, but wanted to bring up cam shaft break in. You're supposed to make sure you have a definitive oil prime and as soon as you get the engine started you're supposed to bring it up to ~2000RPM for 20 min or so largely to get solid oil pressure, not just idle pressure, for the cam to break in.

I know you said you had a good prime, but not sure if you went driving shortly after. I don't think neglecting that would cause the shaft to suffer a torsional shear failure, but I wanted to bring it up in case you're talking to the vendor. They may want to hear a proper break in procedure mentioned.

 

[RichardSkinner]

For those who have ordered from Amayama or PartSouq, have you had luck with getting parts when only one of them says it’s available? Amayama says they have all the camshaft components but when I use the part number in PartSouq I get that there’s zero availability.

I’m thinking of ordering all the parts to assemble a new Toyota head from one of them but I don’t want to order it all and only get 1/3 of the parts.

Not sure if you remember my leaking coolant return on the back of my head, but I found the PN 11181-75021 and ordered one from PartSouq on 4/18. I have not heard a thing from them yet. It was dirt cheap, but the ad said genuine yota and showed an OEM box so I am gambling to see if they come through.

 

[Mudder]

@RichardSkinner, that’s good to know about PartSouq. I know Amayama said a lot of the parts wouldn’t be here until mid May at the earliest. I did make sure to break in the cams, I ran it for 20 min between 2-2.5k RPM making sure to monitor the coolant temp as well. I’ve told the vendor this and they pretty told me to get bent and that when I assembled it per the FSM I did it wrong because the FSM is wrong on how to install the oil pump.

Truthfully I wish I had recorded the conversation. During it the company rep told me they were having similar failures like mine and close to a 50% failure rate and it’s linked to the oil pump and that if it runs at all on either the pump cover for timing cover it causes these failures. I knew from the start I wasn’t going to get a warranty upheld due to how condescending they were over it all. They also admitted that they stopped selling engine with the oil pump installed due to the failure rate.

 

[jakey poo]

I can't recall if you mentioned who you bought it from, but I would state it hear as a buyer beware for anyone who might come across this thread.

 

[Mudder]

I can't recall if you mentioned who you bought it from, but I would state it hear as a buyer beware for anyone who might come across this thread.

Once I’m positive that they aren’t going to warranty anything I’ll be posting their name and a detailed post with the issues I had with their head from the start. That way all my posts where I’ve complained about it are in one post for anyone searching.

In other news, I got the cruise control light to work. I had forgotten to ground the wire going to the switch, I’ll be excited to see if cruise truly works when I drive this truck again. I also started reassembly of the interior. I ordered a heat control cable and the defrost/vent control cable as mine don’t move freely.

 

[Mudder]

Has anyone had any luck location a connector for the fuel sending unit to body harness? Mine is missing the locking tabs and has no part number and I’m pulling a blank when looking through the connector books I’ve found online. It’s for a 1989 Pickup.

 

[gnob]

looks like

 

[Mudder]

That looks like it, thank you gnob! Of course it seems to be discontinued so I may have to upped both sides of the connector to something available or just leave it as is.

Edit: I may have found a connector that works the same and is a Honda Part number. I’ve ordered it and will update if it works properly.

 

[pappy]

That looks like it, thank you gnob! Of course it seems to be discontinued so I may have to upped both sides of the connector to something available or just leave it as is.

Edit: I may have found a connector that works the same and is a Honda Part number. I’ve ordered it and will update if it works properly.

Don't give up yet. Get a hold of @ToyotaMatt . He might be able to source that connector.

 

[RichardSkinner]

I can't offer help for the exact connector, however I do keep knock off Amp Super Seal connectors on hand and have just started replacing connectors if they're ate up. My truck is 40 years old this year and came from an abusive family. I am finding that is a decent rehab solution since I just care about functionality over original state.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08KKCFMRP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Mudder]

Don't give up yet. Get a hold of @ToyotaMatt . He might be able to source that connector.

If the one from Honda doesn’t fit I’ll get with Matt and see if he can help locate it.

@RichardSkinner, I’ve been doing the same thing for most of the connectors as well. Almost all my lights are wired through those connectors and I’m impressed with the quality of the knock offs for the price point. It just seems easier to me to replace the one connector housing than redo both ends for this one. The connector housing I ordered was $1.92 and I needed some other terminals to finish another side project

 

[Mudder]

One issue I had was a very noisy power steering pump on the test drive. It was louder than the engine and exhaust is. Instead of replacing it I pulled the reservoir off, removed the cap by bending the tabs and cleaned it with dawn dish soap and a bottle brush. I did use some brake clean and dumped out some of gunk. I’ll let it air dry for a few days then reinstall it.

Hopefully this solves the problem, if not I’ll get a new pump. Next up is dealing with the box since it’s leaking. I’m tempted to go with a ReadHead box and have it tapped for Hydro in case I ever wanted to upgrade to it.

 

[Mudder]

Started tearing into the front to really take a Bette look at the damage so I can see if it’s fixable by me or if I should pay someone. I took some measurements from the floor to the base of the head light, the drivers side is 37 1/2” and the passenger side is 38 5/16. Taking some time to really look over I noticed a bigger crease this time (circled in red) the other area is a place I tried to fix with heat and a come along.

I’m thinking a port a power may be the best way to fix this without messing up other parts of the body.

 

[RichardSkinner]

Hopefully this solves the problem, if not I’ll get a new pump. Next up is dealing with the box since it’s leaking. I’m tempted to go with a ReadHead box and have it tapped for Hydro in case I ever wanted to upgrade to it.

Seal kit is like $25 at Napa and drilling and tapping is easy.

 

[Mudder]

I’ll look into a seal kit if it’s that cheap. I’d rather save the money and put it towards new shocks or longer leaf springs.

I did get a porta power from Harbor freight and was able to fix the front clip good enough that the grill fits and the headlights are level! I also messed with getting the core support straighter and rerouted some wires and put them in loom. A winch bumper is definitely on the list of things to do before I drive it again.

 

[Mudder]

Spent some time wiring in the stereo. Had to order brackets as mine were missing and I’ll need to order a stereo trim piece as mine is chopped to crap.

I also got a 8” powered sub installed to help out the speakers that’ll eventually be installed. There’s wiring two 4” speakers in the dash and two 6” speakers in the door.

 

[Mudder]

Huge thanks to @gnob for identifying the fuel sender connector. I was able to google the Toyota part number and found a website that showed the female side connection with both Honda and KTM part numbers. Using those part numbers I found the female connector on Corsa Technic and the male connector as well.

Connector is pretty much the same as the Toyota one, the terminals fit with no issues. Overall cost for me was $8.37, $3.17 for the connector and $5.20 for shipping

Part number off of the bag

Website showing the Honda and KTM female connector part numbers.

 

[Mudder]

Box is apart. Now I need to figure out how to unstake and remove the nut on the worm gear so I can change the seals. I’m thinking a little bit of heat and a thin flathead to unstake the nut.

 

[aztoyman]

I resealed my son's late IFS box and I don't remember having to take that apart. Yikes. I'm glad I have the early style box for replacing that seal. Good luck with all your uh balls.

 

[RichardSkinner]

Didn't realize you were doing the input shaft seal. I haven't gone into the worm gear, but the video I linked gives good warning that it's "toast" if you pull that apart. Not sure how legit that is.

13:40 has a similar nut. 19:00 for the reassembly of the worm gear. Curious to hear if it's same process. Looks similar from what I remember.