1984 HJ47 Troopy Restoration Build - A Retrospective (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter HJ47
- Start date
-
- Tags
- build thread
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #42
Current times roof update. The gap was bad enough to search for a replacement troopy roof. Brandon at Classic Cruisers happened to have a full roof with excellent fiberglass, but the drip rail was rusted trash.
The shipping crate could sleep four comfortably.
The shipping crate could sleep four comfortably.
- Thread starter
- #43
July 3 bodyshop test fit with Brandon's roof. Rusty drip rail removed and laid on a new CCOT replacement drip rail. The drip rail kit ended up too short of the troopy (standard FJ40 kit with a couple of longer pieces). CCOT and I will work at a fix, so I'm not worried.
4Cruisers
SILVER Star
The '84 HJ47RV-KCQ was originally equipped with an H41 4-speed transmission, not a 5-speed. And it had a drum parking brake on the transfer case. Many years ago, when he lived in Santa Fe, I bought a very low mileage H41 from Josh @Chamba, from an '84 HJ47 out of Australia. Now I know which vehicle it came out of! The H41 is sitting in my garage, ready to be cleaned up. IIRC Josh said it had only about 47,000 miles on it. When I bought it the H41 was mated to a split transfer case with a 34mm idler shaft and no 5th gear oiler provision - and no drum parking brake
. Now I have a hunch as to where the parking brake parts went. I was able to buy a split transfer case with drum parking brake here on MUD from a Belgian '85 BJ45, so all is well. The combination is going into my '71 FJ40 build, currently in progress.BTW, good to see the Troopy again.
- Thread starter
- #46
@4Cruisers thanks for a bit of the troopy's background. Yes, Josh put in a new 5 speed when he did the Vortex swap. He said (or I read it in one of his posts) that he sold off the original 2H Diesel engine for more than the Vortec cost (no surprise).
Here's the parking brake setup I have. Must be a transplant from the H41 you bought from him?
Here's the parking brake setup I have. Must be a transplant from the H41 you bought from him?
4Cruisers
SILVER Star
Probably.
- Thread starter
- #48
Here's a few shots of the frame before the engine and drive train was removed for blasting and paint. The 22 gallon 2nd tank was deleted. The rear cross member with its 30 plus holes was also replaced with a new one.
The frame is showing some surface rust but was solid. The PO would spray the frame yearly with fish oil (maybe an Aussie thing?) as a rust preventer. It created a gummy coating that the blaster guy bitched about to everyone but me. During the blasting process, he'd get a section clean only to have fish oil gunk (mixed with Aussie and New Mexico red dust) spray back on the clean sections as he worked a new section. I think it took over four hours to blast the frame because of it.
The frame is showing some surface rust but was solid. The PO would spray the frame yearly with fish oil (maybe an Aussie thing?) as a rust preventer. It created a gummy coating that the blaster guy bitched about to everyone but me. During the blasting process, he'd get a section clean only to have fish oil gunk (mixed with Aussie and New Mexico red dust) spray back on the clean sections as he worked a new section. I think it took over four hours to blast the frame because of it.
- Thread starter
- #49
Fish oil free! It turned nice I think. A lot less busy without that 2nd gas tank strung across the mid frame.
They used POR-15 and then a 'farm implement black' semi gloss over it. Farm machinery dealers sell the same paint in spray cans for future touch ups.
You can see that they POR-15'd the OME leaf springs, shackles, U-bolts all black as well after blasting. I can always replace the greasable shackles with new shiny zinc colored ones in the future.
They used POR-15 and then a 'farm implement black' semi gloss over it. Farm machinery dealers sell the same paint in spray cans for future touch ups.
You can see that they POR-15'd the OME leaf springs, shackles, U-bolts all black as well after blasting. I can always replace the greasable shackles with new shiny zinc colored ones in the future.
- Thread starter
- #51
Circle of life, I sold the 4Plus rear bumper, and bought an OEM late model tire carrier. The tire carrier came from another troopy...who removed it to buy...a new 4Plus tire carrier.
I upgraded the hinge pins to something City Racer sells (I believe a MUD member makes them). My model troopy had the spare tire under the rear bed (same chain/crank thing the 60 series uses). You can see the new tub backer plate with weld nuts that was added to my tub in the third pic. I also replaced the beat up rear sill with new one that had the 'standard' tire carrier cushion and catch bolt hole/weld nuts already configured.
I upgraded the hinge pins to something City Racer sells (I believe a MUD member makes them). My model troopy had the spare tire under the rear bed (same chain/crank thing the 60 series uses). You can see the new tub backer plate with weld nuts that was added to my tub in the third pic. I also replaced the beat up rear sill with new one that had the 'standard' tire carrier cushion and catch bolt hole/weld nuts already configured.
- Thread starter
- #52
Here's the time I had a month off before starting a new job that coincided with my initial bodyshop having a slot opening up in three weeks.
I actually thought I could save myself big bodyshop labor $ by disassembling and wire wheeling the ENTIRE truck down to bare steel. This include removing the Monstaliner bed liner for the entire interior.
After I was done, I assembled most everything and added the seating back. I wanted the bodyshop 'know how it went together'. So I drive down to the bodyshop after three week wait, and they said we gave your slot to someone else. Check back in the fall. Oh, but wait. Since you removed all the paint already (you idiot) you really need to get some primer on it like now before it starts to rust.
After a bit of asking around, I found my current bodyshop (who I love) right next door to my blaster guy and the rest is history.
I actually thought I could save myself big bodyshop labor $ by disassembling and wire wheeling the ENTIRE truck down to bare steel. This include removing the Monstaliner bed liner for the entire interior.
After I was done, I assembled most everything and added the seating back. I wanted the bodyshop 'know how it went together'. So I drive down to the bodyshop after three week wait, and they said we gave your slot to someone else. Check back in the fall. Oh, but wait. Since you removed all the paint already (you idiot) you really need to get some primer on it like now before it starts to rust.
After a bit of asking around, I found my current bodyshop (who I love) right next door to my blaster guy and the rest is history.
steffan
SILVER Star
Too funny - good read.... thanks for taking the time to write it down!
HJ47 said:
"...It did take a bit of convincing to go with the beige underside. They lobbied hard to just have it black."
Great that you did not cede to the lobbyists and the underside remained original 464 Toyo beige instead of black!...
It looks so nice!
Congrats mate!
=====
1984 BJ42 frame-off restored, factory 5spd
1983 BJ45 P/UP resto project, factory P/S
"...It did take a bit of convincing to go with the beige underside. They lobbied hard to just have it black."
Great that you did not cede to the lobbyists and the underside remained original 464 Toyo beige instead of black!...
It looks so nice!
Congrats mate!
=====
1984 BJ42 frame-off restored, factory 5spd
1983 BJ45 P/UP resto project, factory P/S
Last edited:
Thanks for the effort to post! Keep up the good work
- Thread starter
- #56
Okay, so I've got a question on the rain gutter fit. When I called CCOT about rails not being long enough, they said they sell only FJ40 kits and are not sure about measurements of the other models. Their lengths for the kit pieces are also set length (no custom) so a bought two additional 38" pieces for the troopy to add to their standard. I've already ordered another pair of pieces to close the big side gaps.
Edit: I did have a question on the drain notches, but I answered it myself (next post) when I remembered I have FJ40 roof in the back of the garage.
Edit: I did have a question on the drain notches, but I answered it myself (next post) when I remembered I have FJ40 roof in the back of the garage.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #57
In the above post I had a question about OEM drainage locations (as the kit welds together it looks like you make your own). But, when I remembered my FJ40 roof in the garage I dug the roof out and took some pics of the four OEM drain locations (two front, two rear).
The drainage notches in the gutter are about a rounded 'pinky nail tip' in size.
The drainage notches in the gutter are about a rounded 'pinky nail tip' in size.
- Thread starter
- #58
Anyone who has dissembled their doors knows it seems like there is 100 parts lying all over. I took my doors apart about two years ago. The doors are still in primer, but the Non-USA vent window frames have been blasted and powder coated black for at least a year. In the interest getting something put together, I decided to install new OEM vent weatherstripping.
Having forgotten how they went together, found @lostmarbles thread below. Good, detailed steps to follow.
forum.ih8mud.com
I decided to tackle the weatherstripping that goes around the vent window frame. Although I bought new OEM rubber, it was coated with greasy/waxy/powdery yellow coating. It was a bitch to rub/scrub off, but the rubber turned out pretty well after my labors.
Having forgotten how they went together, found @lostmarbles thread below. Good, detailed steps to follow.
Tackling the doors
Of all the work I've ever done on my BJ40, "refurbishing the doors" has been the most time-consuming. I'm putting together this thread on the subject because I don't see much info here on MUD about it and I want to help others who may be planning to embark on similar work. (I'm not saying my...
forum.ih8mud.com
I decided to tackle the weatherstripping that goes around the vent window frame. Although I bought new OEM rubber, it was coated with greasy/waxy/powdery yellow coating. It was a bitch to rub/scrub off, but the rubber turned out pretty well after my labors.
- Thread starter
- #59
Tom said in his guide it took him about 45 minutes to install/seat the rubber. That seems about right. It was very time consuming. There is no adhesive or anything - just slowly pressing the rubber into the frame. I used one of those nylon/plastic pry tools you get as part of the panel pulling kits on Amazon. Every time I thought I got it all pressed in, I'd find little sections that needed to be seated.
- Thread starter
- #60
Next I put on the weatherstrip on the vent glass and pushed it into the pivot frames. At first, I tried 'dry' but switched to wetting the rubber with a little dish soap to get it into the frames.
The current available OEM weatherstripping for the vent glass is maybe 8 cm longer than you need. I left extra on top and bottom to avoid lining up an edge and it ending up too short once I worked the glass into the frame.
The current available OEM weatherstripping for the vent glass is maybe 8 cm longer than you need. I left extra on top and bottom to avoid lining up an edge and it ending up too short once I worked the glass into the frame.
