For Sale 1984 FJ60 1 Ton, Stroked EFI 385 V8 in SW Florida (1 Viewer)

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Location
United States
This seriously built 1984 FJ60 with a monster V8 and drivetrain is looking for a new home. I'm not the original builder, but the build thread is listed below.

Summary
Overall Rust-Free and clean
Located in Bradenton, FL (south of Tampa).
Mileage ~191,000
My understanding is it passed smog in NV.
Estimated value $35k based on parts and labor, asking $13,500 OBO. Would also consider trading for a rust-free FJ40 (a little rust is ok), preferably with a V8, ps, disc brakes, ac, and ideally soft top & automatic (so the wife can drive it as well).
Build thread: FJ60 1-ton Superduty build

Details below are from original builder. NOTE: The truck now has a Winters shifter, chassis has been undercoated, cooling and fuel lines have been updated. Has decent highway manners at 80mph+, some play in the steering but didn't bother me. Overall a fun rig to drive, and very capable.
Has some dings and trail bruises, rear door panel has a tear. Other than that in great condition.

Details from original builder
"Suspension:

Spring over with full width 1-ton axles from an 02’ Superduty:

• Front ball joint Dana 60 with 4:11’s and an ARB locker. This axle has the BIG brakes, and the good seals and heavy tubes.
• Rear Sterling with 4.11’s and a Detroit, Disc brakes and built-in parking brake (not yet connected). Heavy duty Great lakes cover.
• Very reinforced stock spring packs (rides very good and stable)
• Front Rancho 9000’s and rear long travel Bilstein’s with out-boarded hoops.
• Rear anti-wrap bar.
• Non ABS Master Cylinder and booster from late model 1-ton superduty. This thing stops 10x better than any cruiser I’ve driven.
• 5 recentered 8-bolt hummer double beadlock wheels with the biasply 36 x 12.5 x 16.5 goodyear military tires. These use the pressed USA6x6 centers, which are stronger than the flat plate type. They also have the Greatlakes mud locks welded on.

Drivetrain:

• 350+hp, 480+ftlb 385 EFI stroker
o Mid 70’s high nickel block, stress relieved. .040 over
o EQ torker heads, flow better than vortec’s but accept pre-85 parts
o Scat 6.0 cast crank and rods
o Kiethblack hypereutectic pistons with 9.6:1 compression
o Comp cam K12-239 .480 lift with 270 dur. (Idles very well)
o Billet roller rockers
o Edelbrock performer intake
o Serpentine accessories
o 750 cfm bored throttle body, stainless braided fuel lines.
o Custom EBL, laptop tunable with live logging, high speed ECM.
o Innovative Wideband o2 system
o Ceramic block hugger headers with custom 3” mandrel bent exhaust, very nice and mellow stainless magnaflow muffler and a universal magnaflow cat.
o York onboard air system completely plumbed to truck with serpentine pulley and small air tank.
o Large Howe aluminum radiator
o Air conditioning was functioning well until the compressor went. I was planning on replacing it and adding R134 instead of R-12
o Edelbrock polished aluminum tall valve covers and open element.

• Re-BUILT 1992 700R4 Corvette servo, beast sunshell, upgraded pump, heavy duty torque converter, Howel stand alone lock up or can be controlled by the EBL ecm (not connected yet).

• Ford Np203 gear reduction box, bolted to a passenger drop ford 32 spline Np205 via Northwest Fab,clockable adapter. Custom triple stick shifters (Front wheel drive, rear wheel drive and 4 wheel drive)


• Highangle drivelines 1-ton 1350 C/V shafts front and rear with a flanged 1410 u-joint in the rear and a 1310 at the front axle. These shafts are VERY heavy duty and weigh 2-3X more than Toyota stuff.

Interior:
Tan interior. Front seats are black vinyl, sliding and reclining racing seats from Summit racing. These are very comfortable. Rear seat is out of an fj62 with headrests, all stock carpet is in good condition as is the head liner. The interior on this rig is an 8 out of 10. The driver rear interior door panel needs replacing or recovering.

Exterior:

• Completely disassembled in 2004 and repainted with Dupont primer and Valspar industrial paint. Removed front windshield and fixed small pencil lead size rust pits and replaced windshield. Fixed dime sized rust spot at rear fender well. The front fenders need to be trimmed as there are some dents from the added travel and width and a small tree. The body is probably a 7 out of 10 and has ZERO rust. There are some brush scratches and door dings
• Trimmed and capped rockers (looks very neat)
• Custom sliders welded to frame and under front and rear rockers.
• Front ARB bull bar with the newer Warn 8274 with the 4hp motor. I have added new 5/8” extraction points to the front of the bumper that can accommodate shackles.
• Rear swing out tire carrier with dual pivot points (Iron Pig off-road) and space for 3 Nato or Wedco jerry cans. It also has a tow hitch with wiring for lights.
• FJ62 mirrors, the drivers side is broken due to a rock on a gravel road.

The chassis has about 191k miles, but there is not much else that is stock...
The engine swap was certified by the Clark county smog board ~2010 when it was a stock TBI but it just recently (~2014) passed smog (tail pipe and visual) with all of the new mods. Clark County stopped letting us know how well we smogged so I have no idea what the emissions are, only that it passed. I’m positive this will not pass the smog referee’s in California since the casting number on the block is from a mid 70’s engine even though they are nearly identical to late model 5.7 blocks."
- MUD member:Sixty

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I know this rig was listed on CL in NYC last year. Now it's on CL in Tampa for $10k. So are you asking 13.5 and bottoming out at 10?
 
Lol ok thanks Mr Mall Cop, lotsa time on your hands huh?

Dude, I know you're pissed someone just outed you for buying this thing for $8k (or less) last March and now flipping it (or trying to, anyway) for $13.5k w/o any discernible improvements (if there are any please let us know). There's nothing wrong with making money on a rig, but you're unlikely to find much sympathy for your approach on this forum, the whole point of which is to chime in and help everyone make better decisions. You might try eBay or stick to CL.

And even there consider rethinking your sales strategy. You appear to have attended some sort of bizzaro Crazy Eddie's Weekend Business Seminar at the Red Roof Inn, where they taught you insulting customers and changing the price three times a day (your CL ad now says you're asking $3500 btw) is the best way to make a sale.
 
Dude, I know you're pissed someone just outed you for buying this thing for $8k (or less) last March and now flipping it (or trying to, anyway) for $13.5k w/o any discernible improvements (if there are any please let us know). There's nothing wrong with making money on a rig, but you're unlikely to find much sympathy for your approach on this forum, the whole point of which is to chime in and help everyone make better decisions. You might try eBay or stick to CL.

And even there consider rethinking your sales strategy. You appear to have attended some sort of bizzaro Crazy Eddie's Weekend Business Seminar at the Red Roof Inn, where they taught you insulting customers and changing the price three times a day (your CL ad now says you're asking $3500 btw) is the best way to make a sale.

Cool story bro - do you have a job or just sit on this site all day long as well?
First of all you don't know know anything about me, and it's presumptuous to think I'm pissed or experiencing some petty emotions like perhaps what you're experiencing or projecting. I'm a man - an adult male, and don't have time for your childish moanings.
Red Roof Inn? What on God's green earth are you rambling about?? I'm not even going to comment on your internet insults just take your meds as prescribed by your doctor.

Now before another fussbudget makes more asinine remarks let me clarify: if you're a serious buyer please get in touch, if you're not serious (two examples above), or have nothing positive to contribute don't ruin the forum for everyone else and waste time, you're not contributing to the universe you're just leaching from it. Sellers retain rights to do what they please with their assets, it's a free country. If you don't like something, go away with your moaning no-one worthwhile will miss you.

Now getting back to the intention of this posting. Here's a well documented, rust-free, bad-ass rig at a very reasonable price. All serious inquiries from grown ups are welcome. Elitists and juveniles and fascists please go annoy other posters.
And for normal people - if you can appreciate a sweet rig without pangs of jealousy and hostility give the photos a Like . PEACE
 
You win dude! Nothing petty about your reply. Just straight class. Two things tho:


1: Thank you for this, it might be the best thing I've read in a while:
I'm a man - an adult male, and don't have time for your childish moanings.


2: The extraordinary irony of someone trying to flip a rig for $6k more than he paid for it less than a year ago, without **any** proof of commensurate upgrades or maintenance, and then saying this:
...you're not contributing to the universe you're just leaching from it.
 
Just curious. Why does he have to have upgrades? I used to get Pigs for 4000, and now the same truck sells 14000. So, if I bought a rig, drove on weekends, and then decided to sell it, I couldn't sell for what it's now worth? Is there some sort of time limit? You say a year is bad, but is 18 months? how about 2 years? How long does one have to wait if they got a deal, but decide the truck is too much for them or whatnot? What if I buy a truck for 14000 and a year later it's worth 10,000, is a 'Mud buyer obligated to pay me 14000? If it sounds stupid to pay more than something is worth, why is any less stupid to post it for less than its worth?
 

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