1978 LPB Teardown and Rebuild

[crushers]

not sure, i guess if someone made a splash shield for the dipstick in the pan then they might be able to tell.
i am guessing not much since most NA vehicles use 5L to fill. i would say a L or 2 max...

 

[waiting for time]

Hi Kevin,

Just went to your thread and its awesome.
To bad you live on the other side of the pool.

Love to see more of your work.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Thanks Michael


I went for a little (1200 Km round) trip yesterday down to Montana to 3_puppies place. I traded him some parts for an FJ60 front axle, a set of mini truck knuckles and backing plates. That gives me the parts to do vented discs and V6 calipers on four corners. Paul also had a package from Marlin and one from Georg (orangeFJ45)....

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Twin stick kit from Georg

Australian splitcase drum park brake

Rebuild kits for the splitcase, H55f, front diff and rear diff

 

[1tontoy]

Heck yea! Where did you get the H55 and splitcase rebuild kits? I need both kits...

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Call Georg (orangefj45 - Valley Hybrids) - he had the splitcase in stock and the h55f was a couple days for him to bring in. He also had the drum park brake for the splitcase you see in the photo above

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Twin stick kit from Georg
View attachment 439390
Australian splitcase drum park brake
View attachment 439392

THESE.

The twin stick kit: document it carefully. Make mistakes and tell me which ones not to make (I need to order one from Georg myself...)

The drum brake should be easy enough, but please modify your split case sooner rather than later, and take a lot of pictures. I promise I'll do the same if I get to doing the job earlier on ours for you, OK?

If I knew you were heading to Helena I would have told you to stop by my brothers so that you could help talk him into a good cruiser for his adventures. He's openly talked about a T100 for them.... <shudder>

Dan

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Thinking about it right now

I was going to finish a complete mock up before tearing down and rebuilding engine, tranny, t-case, diffs, suspension, frame including paint/ powder - with the idea of a finished chassis before turning to the body.

But I suppose there is no harm in having the H55f/toybox/splitcase/twinstick/drum p-brake fully assembled and refurbished before teardown. I would just have to keep it clean and covered while finishing my roll cage and mounting seats etc.

I have a few things to do first before pulling the drive train back out for rebuild.

mount hydro-boost and master cylinder
power steering/ hydro-boost lines
charged air line from intercooler to intake man.
check rad for fittment
mount waste gate actuator and plumbing
throttle linkage

Then I can pull the train out and....

re-install the flywheel
test compression and act accordingly
re-build 5 spd
install the toybox
rebuild the splitcase with drum brake and twinstick

Then put the train back in and solve the cab floor clearance for the toybox as well as the tube cross-member clearance. I want to section the floor and tranny cover and extend them roughly 7". I will of course do that in the most original looking way I can. I think I'll remove the well for the gas tank to make the floor flat (with ribs). Then I will cut a square section in the middle of the floor and slide that section back 7". Fill in the gaps, cut and extend the cover to fit.

There is a hat channel shaped rib under the cab that I will re-fab to run 7" further back and still look original.

When I put a tape measure on the output flange of the splitcase I have 7.25" to the tube cross-member. I am adding 7" to the length of the drive train.........so I think it will fit but I am going to see for sure when I get it in there and see how it sits and think about flex etc.


But before all that I have a bunch of sills and snorkels to build in order to pay for the stuff I bought. I am off work next week and although I will be Daddy Dacare I hope to get some stuff done on my rig. I can't logistically make sills and watch the kids at the same time but I can watch them and work at home.

sorry to ramble... but it's my thread

 

[a.greenspan]

...my rig. I can't logistically make sills and watch the kids at the same time but I can watch them and work at home.

Kevin ,
engage the kids, give them a screwdriver, a hammer or something else & let them rebuild Dad`s Cruiser ....
.... maybe the Cruiser is finished a little bit faster
http://www.linguee.de/uebersetzung/deutsch/screwdrivers.html
Cheers
Peter

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Kevin ,
engage the kids, give them a screwdriver, a hammer or something else & let them rebuild Dad`s Cruiser ....
.... maybe the Cruiser is finished a little bit faster

Cheers
Peter

I do that when I can but all my tools end up in the driveway while they use my tiedown straps to tow eachother around on skateboards

At least I can keep an eye on them

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Ok, some progress

So, a while ago I decided to go with a hydro-boost instead of the vacuum route. This is out of a 2002 GMC Safari (I know, I know. It will be the only GM part in my build - I promise) This one had 4 wheel disc brakes and a larger compressed gas cylinder reserve on it. The master cylinder is from the same vehicle. As you can see, due to the mounting position in a van it is angled downward when the reservoir is level. I initially thought I could just get a different reservoir or complete master and make a different mounting bracket or just return it. It was the booster I was actually interested in anyway. Upon closer inspection the fact that it angled downward actually made more room with regard to the intake manifold and throttle linkage.

So I went ahead and drilled through the firewall and pedal bucket...

and started to clearance the very large center hole

 

[Awl_TEQ]

I made such a mess of the whole thing and the booster had to go lower so I decided to patch and weld the whole thing shut and start over...

I removed the pedal bucket and patched it back up

and drilled the holes all over again - due to the angled system this lower position was required but the end justified the means

 

[Awl_TEQ]

et voila! It looks kinda funky but clearance is great and there's no going back

you can see the shims between the booster and the firewall. This was necessary for the stroke of the pedal and the rib in the firewall - not the big rib everyone has trouble with but the embossed rib.

inside - the booster rod was cut and threaded M10 and the original clevis used. It had 40mm of stroke and the pedal stops right at the floor

 

[Awl_TEQ]

a couple more



good shot of the intercooler - got the rad in too

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Fender back on and time for the intercooler to intake piping



sorry, no progress picks



intercooler pipe done. I would have done a one piece pipe but experience on the other side taught me it is impossible to fit or remove a one piece pipe without removing the fender There is another 1/8 NPT fitting welded down behind the battery for the boost gauge. It looks like it goes over the master reservoir in this pick but in reality it is just slightly over one corner and the cap is easily accessed.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Honest honey, it followed me home....

450K and still OK - just a spare and a few parts. Home made turbo setup - volvo I think. I got the BJ60 complete harness too. For those of you in the know this came from a local rig known as "Slightly Dented" - thanks Ian and Cody for lifting it on the trailer... by hand!

see... the decal even says its OK

 

[waiting for time]

Very nice work as usual Kevin.

How do you power the hydroboost, with the powersteering pump?

 

[crushers]

hummm, interesting setup with the hydroboost. i wish i would have had time to stop by during my visit a couple weeks back, i would have enjoyed an upclose and person look at the build.

cheers

 

[VTCDN]

Cool , great idea on the hydro boost .
Was thinking of the electric vac pumps, but i like the hydro boost much better , and keep the electro-vac for the crusie ,, 2002 GMC Safari Van , was that diesel ?

Would like to see a pix of the home-made manifold and the turbo, don't think it's a volvo one tho.

thanks for the info so-far

VT

 

[73fj]

Are you planning to cover the gap between the grill and the rad?