1977 FJ40: Towing an Off-Road Camper Trailer (1 Viewer)

[Will Van]

I have a 1977 FJ40 that I'd like to tow a camper trailer with. I'm looking at a couple of different off-road trailers, but I'm concerned they may be too big/heavy. I'd like to be able to tow to both local and out-of-state camping spots with the FJ40. I am doing an H55F 5-speed swap in the 40 series and would run an electric brake controller. Both campers that I am looking at have electric brakes.

The first is a Timberleaf Off-Road Classic. It weighs 1,400 lbs dry. It has a tongue weight of 150 lbs and is 14' long. The only problem is the wheel setup on the trailer is 5x4.5, so my Toyota spare won't swap to the trailer.

The other trailer is an Into the Wild Boreas XT. It is more utilitarian and comes with lots of features built-in. It is also bigger/heavier. It has a dry weight of 1,950 lbs and a tongue weight of 230 lbs. It is over 15' long. It also has Toyota 6x5.5 wheel pattern, so my spares would swap over (basically, I would have two spare tires while towing - one on the FJ40 and one on the camper).

What do you guys think? Are these trailers too big/heavy to tow behind the 40 series? Is it a pipe-dream to want to adventure cross-country towing a camper with a 40 series?

 

[FJBen]

Well....

Driving a 40 cross county IS an adventure in itself.

A lifted 40, bigger tires, 2F and H55f is going to struggle with a 2K plus trailer loaded trailer. Personally, I would max out around 1,500lbs IF I were wanting to go your route. As you stated, trailer brakes are a must. You can probably convert or pay the company to convert to Toyota pattern.

It will be slow, but thats part of the allure I suppose.

Now for my Safety Sue speech.
You always want to have "overhead" when towing, not pushing up against the max. According to Toyota, the FJ40 had a max of 3000lbs. No way I'm going near that in an FJ40. You probably will have the 40 loaded down with extras as well so you are dealing with extra payload on it as well. The FJ40 wasn't really designed for camper towing. Can it do it? Yes. Safely? Yes. For close trips around home and 1500lbs ish, I probably wouldn't have many issues. I would not tow 2K plus cross country.

Power will be an issue with a 2F/lifted/tires/loaded.
I don't like Short wheel base towing vehicles, they can get wagged around much easier.
Panic moves/ blown tire in SWB towing could be pretty sketchy...and thats really what you are preparing for.
Towing with a 1/2 or 3/4 ton pickup will be WORLDS easier on you and much more comfy...but thats not the point of owning a 40.

You should take the FJ40 on another "longish" trip loaded down with stuff that will fit inside. You will then decide if you like driving a 40 that long/far (probably want creature comfort/seats dialed in) Driving a 40 cross country, EPIC, I love it.

Short summary. I wouldn't tow over 1500lbs, electric braked personally. I would also make sure it was a camper like you are looking at or a popup to keep wind drag down even more.

I towed a small popup just basically around town YEARS ago with my Fj40 on 37's. Of course it had a fuel injected V8 and had no power problems when the trailer was back there. It was around 14' total. Talk about a drop hitch! It was less than 1,000lbs. Wish I still had that to use behind my BJ74 now.

 

[-MaTTi-]

The only problem is the wheel setup on the trailer is 5x4.5, so my Toyota spare won't swap to the trailer.

You can always buy 5x4.5 to 6x5.5 spacers and use them if the spare tire is needed.

 

[workingdog]

@FJBen summary is spot on as is @-MaTTi- Don't let the spacing stop you if that's the trailer you want.

Tell us more about your rig - how stock is it?

 

[gmac]

This is our set up.

The trailer is about 700lbs dry. (Fully loaded with water (approximately 20 gallons) etc... I'm guessing around 1000 lbs). No brakes on the trailer.
When both are fully loaded it gets heavy, the Troopy can carry 44 gal of fuel, as well as 14 gal of water and a propane tank, along with the 4 of us and luggage.
We have driven this extensively with no issues, you need to plan ahead when braking and use the engine and gears. (Power discs with drums on the back). Also, I often try to load the troopy more than the trailer, specially if expecting ice/snow on the road.
Not sure if I would want to go much heavier with one of the trailers you mentioned above, I would try to not add any additional weight to the trailer when towing.
Hills are slow, flats around 68 mph, with a 2F.
Hope this helps make your decision.

 

[Will Van]

You can always buy 5x4.5 to 6x5.5 spacers and use them if the spare tire is needed.

Yeah, I just hate spacers. I suppose it wouldn't be that difficult to convert the hubs to 6 x 5.5.

@FJBen summary is spot on as is @-MaTTi- Don't let the spacing stop you if that's the trailer you want.

Tell us more about your rig - how stock is it?

I'm building my FJ40 now.

Build list is: OME 2.5" Light suspension lift, 33" BFG KM3s, rebuilt 2F with Holley Sniper EFI and exhaust header, H55F 5-speed, 60 series split case with 4:1 low and 1.10:1 high, 4.56 diff gears, 7-pin electric trailer brake setup, Mean Green 200 amp alternator, DUI HEI dizzy, ARB dual compressor and air tank, and Ron Davis radiator.

Edit: I also have front disc brakes and rear drums.

This is our set up.
View attachment 2045129
The trailer is about 700lbs dry. (Fully loaded with water (approximately 20 gallons) etc... I'm guessing around 1000 lbs). No brakes on the trailer.
When both are fully loaded it gets heavy, the Troopy can carry 44 gal of fuel, as well as 14 gal of water and a propane tank, along with the 4 of us and luggage.
We have driven this extensively with no issues, you need to plan ahead when braking and use the engine and gears. (Power discs with drums on the back). Also, I often try to load the troopy more than the trailer, specially if expecting ice/snow on the road.
Not sure if I would want to go much heavier with one of the trailers you mentioned above, I would try to not add any additional weight to the trailer when towing.
Hills are slow, flats around 68 mph, with a 2F.
Hope this helps make your decision.

That is a sweet setup! What kind of camper is that? SoCal Teardrop?

 

[gmac]

Yeah, I just hate spacers. I suppose it wouldn't be that difficult to convert the hubs to 6 x 5.5.



I'm building my FJ40 now.

Build list is: OME 2.5" Light suspension lift, 33" BFG KM3s, rebuilt 2F with Holley Sniper EFI and exhaust header, H55F 5-speed, 60 series split case with 4:1 low and 1.10:1 high, 4.56 diff gears, 7-pin electric trailer brake setup, Mean Green 200 amp alternator, DUI HEI dizzy, ARB dual compressor and air tank, and Ron Davis radiator.

Edit: I also have front disc brakes and rear drums.



That is a sweet setup! What kind of camper is that? SoCal Teardrop?

Camper is a Vintage Overland, build in Grand Junction, CO.

 

[Salem747]

If you had an R2.8 in there you could tow more than the chassis could allow!

Sarpinz has a similar setup but the R2.8 and pulls an Intech RV Flyer Explore, might be another option for you.

 

[Will Van]

If you had an R2.8 in there you could tow more than the chassis could allow!

Sarpinz has a similar setup but the R2.8 and pulls an Intech RV Flyer Explore, might be another option for you.

R2.8 is a long term goal. But since the 2F was just rebuilt, I’m going to rock it for a while.

 

[whitey45]

Fwiw, I towed a small tractor the other day to see how the Troopy would tow. It did surprisingly well and it was about 2500lbs with the trailer. And it’s a bj45 3b diesel with a turbo, 130hp max! The longer wheelbase certainly helps but I wouldn’t do this all the time, it was pretty heavy! I once saw a 40 towing a 20 ft travel trailer!! It was a v8 conversion so the power was there! I prefer my crew cab dually Duramax!

 

[workingdog]

So, I'd recommend upgrading the brakes as part of you build, if you're going to tow. There are lots of options out there.

 

[Will Van]

So, I'd recommend upgrading the brakes as part of you build, if you're going to tow. There are lots of options out there.

What do you suggest?

 

[Suprasoup]

FWIW the Old Gurl is basically stock. Fuel injected original engine. Brakes are 4Runner Calipers and the brake booster/master cylinder from a Toyota Supra.

The Zombie Apocalypse Trailer is roughly 2000lbs with a tongue weight of about 220lbs. It has the aerodynamics of a brick. No electric brakes (. I know I know it’s on the list).

I’ve towed the trailer about 10k miles this year alone and the 40 hasn’t had any problems. Drive sensibly and leave plenty of room ahead of you and you’ll be fine.

Edit: mines a ‘76

 

[mano002]

I did this once and it was terrible. The SOA, the Aussie locker, the bumpsteer from the bouncing from the trailer all made for a very exciting, yet painfully slow drive.

 

[Will Van]

View attachment 2045248View attachment 2045250View attachment 2045251

FWIW the Old Gurl is basically stock. Fuel injected original engine. Brakes are 4Runner Calipers and the brake booster/master cylinder from a Toyota Supra.

The Zombie Apocalypse Trailer is roughly 2000lbs with a tongue weight of about 220lbs. It has the aerodynamics of a brick. No electric brakes (. I know I know it’s on the list).

I’ve towed the trailer about 10k miles this year alone and the 40 hasn’t had any problems. Drive sensibly and leave plenty of room ahead of you and you’ll be fine.

Edit: mines a ‘76

Any more details on the brakes? Were the 4Runner calipers abs Supra booster/master cylinder part of a kit?

 

[Suprasoup]

Any more details on the brakes? Were the 4Runner calipers abs Supra booster/master cylinder part of a kit?

No kit just stuff I had lying around or sourced from the local junkyard.

Calipers were from a ‘92 4Runner. My original booster was a rusty piece of junk so I just threw a spare booster I had from my ‘87 Supra turbo when I verified that the bolt patterns were the same. Master cylinder I believe was from either the Supra or a ‘94 T100 4wd. Can’t remember. The bore was 1” if I recall on the master cylinder. I’ve heard a 7/8” bore might work better.

I ended up cutting about an inch of thread off the booster pushrod that connects it to the brake pedal.

Do a search for 4Runner calipers here. There’s quite a few threads about it. It’s been a worthwhile upgrade.

 

[workingdog]

You're going to be using your brakes a lot more. You're going to be seeing more fade. Are you getting plenty of pedal pressure from the Supra booster?

 

[Suprasoup]

You're going to be using your brakes a lot more. You're going to be seeing more fade. Are you getting plenty of pedal pressure from the Supra booster?

Agreed. Some time this year I’ll be replacing the torsion axles on the Zombie Trailer for ones with brakes. That said I’ve been up and down most of the mountain passes in CO this winter in search of POWder and felt that the truck/trailer combo performed admirably in all conditions. Judicious use of engine braking and a “never in a hurry” attitude probably helps.

Pedal pressure and feel are much improved from the stock setup. I’d describe it as nice, tight and progressive.