1977, 60's, 1974, 1991, AKA Time Machine Build!
- Thread starter gwalt584
- Start date
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gwalt584
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #23
March - April 2013
more assembly,
Corbeau seats are mounted to modied FJ40 seat frame using just the frame bases and a Corbeau slider fitting perfectly inside the seat frames. So the stock slider came off, slots were cut in the original frames and a tab welded on the frame base then the Corbeau slider bolted on the tabs. perfect low profile mount.
also test fired the engine and after 22 years of sitting only two injectors would fire. so all new injectors and BAM!, she purs like a kitten.
more assembly,
Corbeau seats are mounted to modied FJ40 seat frame using just the frame bases and a Corbeau slider fitting perfectly inside the seat frames. So the stock slider came off, slots were cut in the original frames and a tab welded on the frame base then the Corbeau slider bolted on the tabs. perfect low profile mount.
also test fired the engine and after 22 years of sitting only two injectors would fire. so all new injectors and BAM!, she purs like a kitten.
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gwalt584
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #24
April - May 2013
front bid assembled.
door finished with hardware and new locks. took the ignition lock to my local lock shop to have it keyed to match the new door locks.
Notice the 69LC's "Take Apart" hinges mounted on the doors. This will make door removal much earier. Thanks for such a nice product.
rear bench seat was installed. I picked it up from the parts listing a long while ago.
The front fenders get a coating of tinted Raptor liner on the under side for stone protection.
At this point I have to say thanks to this site for the massive amount of information that it holds.
I have to say that most of my gaskets, small parts, and OEM stuff came from Cruiser Corps. Some from CCOT and some from SOR.
I can't say anything negative about any of these vendors. They have what you need. you may not like the cost of shipping or have some other issue but I did not have any problems.
front bid assembled.
door finished with hardware and new locks. took the ignition lock to my local lock shop to have it keyed to match the new door locks.
Notice the 69LC's "Take Apart" hinges mounted on the doors. This will make door removal much earier. Thanks for such a nice product.
rear bench seat was installed. I picked it up from the parts listing a long while ago.
The front fenders get a coating of tinted Raptor liner on the under side for stone protection.
At this point I have to say thanks to this site for the massive amount of information that it holds.
I have to say that most of my gaskets, small parts, and OEM stuff came from Cruiser Corps. Some from CCOT and some from SOR.
I can't say anything negative about any of these vendors. They have what you need. you may not like the cost of shipping or have some other issue but I did not have any problems.
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gwalt584
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #25
May - August 2013
I wrapped up the big stuff and took it August 5, 2013 to get the front end aligned and the AC charged up.
I had routed the serpentine belt incorrectly, costing a stop at the trusty and ever so valueable NAPA store for a new belt. 96.8" belt did the trick.
So here is where I am.
What's left.
8274 winch rebuild.
Weld the bumper together and mount it.
Shack down to work out any bugs.
I wrapped up the big stuff and took it August 5, 2013 to get the front end aligned and the AC charged up.
I had routed the serpentine belt incorrectly, costing a stop at the trusty and ever so valueable NAPA store for a new belt. 96.8" belt did the trick.
So here is where I am.
What's left.
8274 winch rebuild.
Weld the bumper together and mount it.
Shack down to work out any bugs.
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gwalt584
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #27
August 2013
As a note I installed the gas struts inside the support arms on the rear hatch. Mine will lift the entire hatch after the latch is released. Awesome.
since my top was from a 76 unit, I did have to swap the header and mount the catches on the side. difficult but worth it for me.
Here are a couple of shots of the two FJ40s side by side. and of course my faithful side kick Tanner.
As a note I installed the gas struts inside the support arms on the rear hatch. Mine will lift the entire hatch after the latch is released. Awesome.
since my top was from a 76 unit, I did have to swap the header and mount the catches on the side. difficult but worth it for me.
Here are a couple of shots of the two FJ40s side by side. and of course my faithful side kick Tanner.
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Fantastic work Gary!
When do we start on my 40?
When do we start on my 40?
Great build!!
gwalt584
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #31
Drive shaft
OK, I am in the "shake down" mode to eliminate any issues or bugs.
I do have a driveline vibration, I think. I am using the stock drive shaft and it does have a pretty good angle and I have approximately a 3 to 5% angle on the full float rear pinion pointed up toward the transfer case.
with these angles will a front drive shaft from a Toyota pickup be the answer? I'm told a 79 to 85 mini truck front axle.
This picture is before I lowered the motor mounts which inturn raised the rear of the transfer case, but you get the idea.
If I need to post final pics I can tonight. just thought I may get some input on this.
Gary
OK, I am in the "shake down" mode to eliminate any issues or bugs.
I do have a driveline vibration, I think. I am using the stock drive shaft and it does have a pretty good angle and I have approximately a 3 to 5% angle on the full float rear pinion pointed up toward the transfer case.
with these angles will a front drive shaft from a Toyota pickup be the answer? I'm told a 79 to 85 mini truck front axle.
This picture is before I lowered the motor mounts which inturn raised the rear of the transfer case, but you get the idea.
If I need to post final pics I can tonight. just thought I may get some input on this.
Gary
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It's pretty cool to see my hobby handy work on such a nice truck!
jim land
SILVER Star
nice work 
are you sure you are going to Wheel and scratch that beauty
do you plan to flip the rear springs to center the wheels on those fender flare, it may help your vibe probleme to have a longer drive shaft
can you post pics of your exhaust with some detail , im in the process of installing ram horns and single exhaust on my tpi engine
are you sure you are going to Wheel and scratch that beautydo you plan to flip the rear springs to center the wheels on those fender flare, it may help your vibe probleme to have a longer drive shaft
can you post pics of your exhaust with some detail , im in the process of installing ram horns and single exhaust on my tpi engine
jim land
SILVER Star
4.29 gear 
what kind of fuel tank are you using
good move for bosh III injector, did you take them at South bay injection
what kind of fuel tank are you using
good move for bosh III injector, did you take them at South bay injection
gwalt584
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #37
Questions
Yep, she will be used.
You know, I need to talk to Dave (LCwizard) about flipping those springs. We have discussed the springs and he has assured me that they will settle.
I used a Walker 42087 crossover ( i think that number is correct) with the ram horns. I will post a picture of the setup.
The gear ratio was 4.27 or 4.28 or 4.29, I really can't remember, certainly a little lower gear than the 4.11 in the 75. I ran it on the interstate for about 10 miles the other night. RPM's are not to high at 70 with lots of peddle left. Cruise at 65 very nice. I have a tach that is on the list of things to do.
The stock under the seat tank was used. I am using a small low pressure pump to supply a surge tank that is mounted under the body, a high pressure pump then takes over to supply the engine. the engine return goes to the surge tank and any that is not used is sent back to the main tank. I will shoot some pictures of that setup when I get under it to take pictures of the exhaust.
Yes, the injectors came from South Bay.
I think I will have to send my chip back to Howell Engine Development. I am running a VSS but I must have told them to delete the VSS from the chip. the engine is dying when press the clutch and slow down. I need it to idle up some to keep it from going dead.
nice work
do you plan to flip the rear springs to center the wheels on those fender flare, it may help your vibe probleme to have a longer drive shaft
can you post pics of your exhaust with some detail , im in the process of installing ram horns and single exhaust on my tpi engine
Yep, she will be used.
You know, I need to talk to Dave (LCwizard) about flipping those springs. We have discussed the springs and he has assured me that they will settle.
I used a Walker 42087 crossover ( i think that number is correct) with the ram horns. I will post a picture of the setup.
The gear ratio was 4.27 or 4.28 or 4.29, I really can't remember, certainly a little lower gear than the 4.11 in the 75. I ran it on the interstate for about 10 miles the other night. RPM's are not to high at 70 with lots of peddle left. Cruise at 65 very nice. I have a tach that is on the list of things to do.
The stock under the seat tank was used. I am using a small low pressure pump to supply a surge tank that is mounted under the body, a high pressure pump then takes over to supply the engine. the engine return goes to the surge tank and any that is not used is sent back to the main tank. I will shoot some pictures of that setup when I get under it to take pictures of the exhaust.
Yes, the injectors came from South Bay.
I think I will have to send my chip back to Howell Engine Development. I am running a VSS but I must have told them to delete the VSS from the chip. the engine is dying when press the clutch and slow down. I need it to idle up some to keep it from going dead.
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jim land
SILVER Star
i also use a surge tank with the camaro pump in it and it is feed via mechanical pump on the block
i dont use a vss with painless wiring and mefi (like on a ramjet)
and have no problem , maybe its not cause by the vss , make sure your tps and iac is ok , how is the fuel pressur at idle
where have you find the heat riser delete spacer
i dont use a vss with painless wiring and mefi (like on a ramjet)
and have no problem , maybe its not cause by the vss , make sure your tps and iac is ok , how is the fuel pressur at idle
where have you find the heat riser delete spacer
gwalt584
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #39
questions
I will have to check that IAC, idle fuel pressure and TPS. Thanks for that tip. I may need to just take the IAC out and clean it.
I had some uneven idle after hooking up the battery, but it smoothes out after running for a while. I was disconecting the battery when working on different stuff and each time I hooked it back up I had to run it a while for it to smooth out.
I think I picked up the spacer on ebay, I ended up with an extra one if you need it. It is for a 2" outlet ram horn.
I will have to check that IAC, idle fuel pressure and TPS. Thanks for that tip. I may need to just take the IAC out and clean it.
I had some uneven idle after hooking up the battery, but it smoothes out after running for a while. I was disconecting the battery when working on different stuff and each time I hooked it back up I had to run it a while for it to smooth out.
I think I picked up the spacer on ebay, I ended up with an extra one if you need it. It is for a 2" outlet ram horn.
gwalt584
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #40
IAC
Jim,
I will have to say thanks for suggesting setting the IAC. that did the trick. Idle was too low and the computer was causing it to surge.
Procedure for others that may want to know.
put the ECU in dianostic mode, using tool or simply putting a paperclip in the A & B connections on the ALDL. Turn the key switch to on without cranking, wait 30 seconds, then unplug the IAC connection. turn key off and disconnect the plug or clip in the ALDL. Leave IAC disconnected.
Crank the engine, use T20 torx screw to adjust the idle screw, it is just above the throttle lever facing the back of the engine. it may still have the metal cap on it from the factory. take the metal cap off with a punch, very easliy done. adjust the idle screw clockwise to increase rpm and counter clockwise to reduce. set the rpm to approximately 600. turn the engine off, reconnect the IAC connector, crank the engine and it should idle smoothly at approx 650 rpm.
mine is smooth at 650 rpm now without a problem with going dead anymore.
Thanks again Jim.
Gary
Jim,
I will have to say thanks for suggesting setting the IAC. that did the trick. Idle was too low and the computer was causing it to surge.
Procedure for others that may want to know.
put the ECU in dianostic mode, using tool or simply putting a paperclip in the A & B connections on the ALDL. Turn the key switch to on without cranking, wait 30 seconds, then unplug the IAC connection. turn key off and disconnect the plug or clip in the ALDL. Leave IAC disconnected.
Crank the engine, use T20 torx screw to adjust the idle screw, it is just above the throttle lever facing the back of the engine. it may still have the metal cap on it from the factory. take the metal cap off with a punch, very easliy done. adjust the idle screw clockwise to increase rpm and counter clockwise to reduce. set the rpm to approximately 600. turn the engine off, reconnect the IAC connector, crank the engine and it should idle smoothly at approx 650 rpm.
mine is smooth at 650 rpm now without a problem with going dead anymore.
Thanks again Jim.
Gary
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