Gary, thanks for posting the pictures of this build, awesome work...makes me wish sometimes I was back in the States for the availability of things to work with....seems we have similar ideas but vastly different execution....again thanks..Lee
1977, 60's, 1974, 1991, AKA Time Machine Build!
- Thread starter gwalt584
- Start date
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happy to know it was simple for you , i chased a cold starting problem for a year and a half ,test and ajust every sensors check fuel pressur and install new injector , burn a starter and the problem was just a broken pin inside the distributor cap 
Jim
Jim
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- #43
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- #45
Sweet build man, which model Hurricane AC system did you go with and how do you like it? Looking for AC for my FJ55
Tucker
Tucker,
I used the Hurricane 3000 inside system, and ran the duct work behind the dash to put air out the two side vents and two in the middle of the dash.
This is much better than the system I have in the 75 model, below dash.
The only issue is heat comes out the same vents. I will attempt a diversion Y to move the air from the two center dash vents to the floor and leave the two side vents as is. Still working on that.
The hurricane 3000 is compact, relatively easy to install and blows a ton of air. I like it.
Gary
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Best I can tell, the main difference between the 1000 & 3000 system is where the fittings are placed on the back to go through the firewall. Were these located where the fan box hole was on your firewall with the 3000? I was looking at the Classic Air unit a couple others have used, this one looks to be shaped better and I like where you mounted it (think I have even less room in a 55). Where did you put the cable pulls?
Thanks!
Tucker
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- #47
questions
tucker,
I made a plate to cover the original fan box hole. the 3000 tubing comes out the rear of the unit and on the lower side. This put the heater and AC connections just under the SS battery holder that I mounted to the firewall.
I put the 4" or 4.5"(can't remember exact size) hole in the plate, so no cutting on the firewall. the Hurricane units come with a template for marking and positioning the unit. It was a good fit. I had to take the glove box out and use that space for the top of the 3000 unit. I will make a smaller removeable box to fit inside the glove box to keep small items and hide the top of the 3000.
The cable pulls were mounted in the OEM holes. The only one that will not be in the dash is the heater valve that controls the warm water flow from the block. I plan on mounting the heat control pull just under the radio slot.
Gary
tucker,
I made a plate to cover the original fan box hole. the 3000 tubing comes out the rear of the unit and on the lower side. This put the heater and AC connections just under the SS battery holder that I mounted to the firewall.
I put the 4" or 4.5"(can't remember exact size) hole in the plate, so no cutting on the firewall. the Hurricane units come with a template for marking and positioning the unit. It was a good fit. I had to take the glove box out and use that space for the top of the 3000 unit. I will make a smaller removeable box to fit inside the glove box to keep small items and hide the top of the 3000.
The cable pulls were mounted in the OEM holes. The only one that will not be in the dash is the heater valve that controls the warm water flow from the block. I plan on mounting the heat control pull just under the radio slot.
Gary
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Wow great looking build
Cool - thanks for the tips. Will probably be tackling this over the winter, most likely the same route you went since I'm running a MB diesel and need to go with a Sanden compressor. You just need a condenser, expansion valve, and dryer outside this kit correct?
Tucker
Tucker
- Thread starter
- #50
look at the firewall pic I posted, there are two blue caps under the battery box. there are actually four copper lines coming out the back of the Hurricane. and yes the expansion valve attaches directly to one of those lines, heater hose in and out, and AC in and out.
Hope that helps.
Gary
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- #51
gears
I must be corrected, it is 4.27 gear ratio.
Gary
4.29 gear
what kind of fuel tank are you using
good move for bosh III injector, did you take them at South bay injection
I must be corrected, it is 4.27 gear ratio.
Gary
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- #52
front bumper
I have to say that my inspiration for this bumper came from CIBO in this thread
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/213110-77-fj40-buildup-charlotte-finally-15.html
My winch that I am rebuilding is an 8274 so my mounting plate is simply vertical and was supplied by Dave Gore at 4Plus Products, check his website out http://www.4plusproducts.com/
The bumper is rectangler tube (not channel) and is secured to the frame with the two 1/2" bolts on each side from the top and a 1/2" bolt through the frame on each side. So it can be removed from the frame.
I am not a welder and my little mig, which works well on sheet metal, could not handle the task of putting this thing together. Therefore a local shop performed the welding for me.
I am trying to find a powder coater in my area which is next on the To Do List.
Follow-up:
The driveline vibration was mostly the e-brake cable was too tight and I burned up a set of e-brake shoes. I'm talking about totally gone, nothing left, the paint on the brake drum was burnt off. Yes, I thought I smelled something hot. When I connected the cable to the handle assembly under the dash I forgot to adjust the cable out.
So while I was working on moving the rear diff back 1" I also rebuilt the e-brake and adjusted it properly this time. I think I still need a doulble cardone drive shaft but the vibration is not nearly as bad as it was.
Lesson learned!
Gary
I have to say that my inspiration for this bumper came from CIBO in this thread
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/213110-77-fj40-buildup-charlotte-finally-15.html
My winch that I am rebuilding is an 8274 so my mounting plate is simply vertical and was supplied by Dave Gore at 4Plus Products, check his website out http://www.4plusproducts.com/
The bumper is rectangler tube (not channel) and is secured to the frame with the two 1/2" bolts on each side from the top and a 1/2" bolt through the frame on each side. So it can be removed from the frame.
I am not a welder and my little mig, which works well on sheet metal, could not handle the task of putting this thing together. Therefore a local shop performed the welding for me.
I am trying to find a powder coater in my area which is next on the To Do List.
Follow-up:
The driveline vibration was mostly the e-brake cable was too tight and I burned up a set of e-brake shoes. I'm talking about totally gone, nothing left, the paint on the brake drum was burnt off. Yes, I thought I smelled something hot. When I connected the cable to the handle assembly under the dash I forgot to adjust the cable out.
So while I was working on moving the rear diff back 1" I also rebuilt the e-brake and adjusted it properly this time. I think I still need a doulble cardone drive shaft but the vibration is not nearly as bad as it was.
Lesson learned!
Gary
- Thread starter
- #53
Powder coated
I got the bumper powder coated. I had it sand blasted, gives a nice textured look, then powder coated. Satin Black. The guy at Southern Outdoor did a great job on the powder coating.
Next up is the 8274 rebuild, I will be putting parts in the blast cabinet tonight.
The motor looked aweful with rust scale on the outside. I opened it up and it shows very little use on the inside. So I am going to try to use the original motor. I will attempt to get the rust scale off, fill the big rust pits, paint in with the Hammered look Rustoleum product. if it does not perform, i will look at a 6.5 HP motor to replace it. I should get the brake overhaul kit and the lower seal kit in on 9/12, hopefully, I will have time to work on it this weekend.
I got the bumper powder coated. I had it sand blasted, gives a nice textured look, then powder coated. Satin Black. The guy at Southern Outdoor did a great job on the powder coating.
Next up is the 8274 rebuild, I will be putting parts in the blast cabinet tonight.
The motor looked aweful with rust scale on the outside. I opened it up and it shows very little use on the inside. So I am going to try to use the original motor. I will attempt to get the rust scale off, fill the big rust pits, paint in with the Hammered look Rustoleum product. if it does not perform, i will look at a 6.5 HP motor to replace it. I should get the brake overhaul kit and the lower seal kit in on 9/12, hopefully, I will have time to work on it this weekend.
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- #54
winch
The winch is complete, thanks to Flintnapper's rebuild thread.
I got an envelop in the mail from Warn, nice new labels for the rebuilt 8274.
I used Warn Spydura 3/8 synthetic rope for the spool. I had to design an attachment mechanism since the Spydura had a loop on the spool end and the 8274 is really not designed to to accept the Spydura. it will hold the end in place but break free if by accident too much is spooled out. Warn put an extra wrap of protection on the rope that is wrapped on the base layer on the spool. So the Spydura is really well thought out.
The winch is complete, thanks to Flintnapper's rebuild thread.
I got an envelop in the mail from Warn, nice new labels for the rebuilt 8274.
I used Warn Spydura 3/8 synthetic rope for the spool. I had to design an attachment mechanism since the Spydura had a loop on the spool end and the 8274 is really not designed to to accept the Spydura. it will hold the end in place but break free if by accident too much is spooled out. Warn put an extra wrap of protection on the rope that is wrapped on the base layer on the spool. So the Spydura is really well thought out.
- Thread starter
- #56
Drive Shaft & Hellroaring Isolator/Combiner
I wanted to report that I picked up a 1984 FJ60 front driveshaft, double cardone style, from a mud member in Georgia and replaced the rear drive shaft last night. I did not have to have the length changed, HOW GOOD DOES IT GET!! It solved the driveline vibration problem. The vibration occured at the peak of the shift cycle.
I also picked up a Hellroaring battery isolator/combiner with remote switch, a 4Plus Products left side battery tray, and a Diehard group 34 battery. I finished the install last night. It was late and I did not get any pictures but I will this weekend. We all love pics.
I am working on the winch power and ground cables.
I wanted to report that I picked up a 1984 FJ60 front driveshaft, double cardone style, from a mud member in Georgia and replaced the rear drive shaft last night. I did not have to have the length changed, HOW GOOD DOES IT GET!! It solved the driveline vibration problem. The vibration occured at the peak of the shift cycle.
I also picked up a Hellroaring battery isolator/combiner with remote switch, a 4Plus Products left side battery tray, and a Diehard group 34 battery. I finished the install last night. It was late and I did not get any pictures but I will this weekend. We all love pics.
I am working on the winch power and ground cables.
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- Thread starter
- #57
Winch Power cable and Skid Plate
I wanted to post some cool pics of the powder coating of the skid plate and some pics of the making of the power cable for the winch.
Thanks Lash for the skid plates, not quite the same now.
The powder coater told me the last time that he wanted to sell his business. When I went by today the shop was cleaned out. He was nice enough to turn on the equipment and do the skid plates. So I can say I was the last customer he did. Took about 30 minutes. Man was I pleased.
I wanted to post some cool pics of the powder coating of the skid plate and some pics of the making of the power cable for the winch.
Thanks Lash for the skid plates, not quite the same now.
The powder coater told me the last time that he wanted to sell his business. When I went by today the shop was cleaned out. He was nice enough to turn on the equipment and do the skid plates. So I can say I was the last customer he did. Took about 30 minutes. Man was I pleased.
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- #58
more pics
rest of pics
rest of pics
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- #60
Lights
Got the Round Eyes that I picked up in the classified section from 1973Guppie installed for the rear lighting. I picked up some off road lights for the front.
The head lights and all the extra lights are powered via relays and direct battery connection, so no load going through the light switch.
I also got the skid plate installed.
I think I can rest for a while, Nah!!! Always something to tweak on!
Gary
Got the Round Eyes that I picked up in the classified section from 1973Guppie installed for the rear lighting. I picked up some off road lights for the front.
The head lights and all the extra lights are powered via relays and direct battery connection, so no load going through the light switch.
I also got the skid plate installed.
I think I can rest for a while, Nah!!! Always something to tweak on!
Gary