1976 FJ40 OEM Power steering Slop

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Richmond, Virginia
I've read up on the existing threads, but can't find anything on slop on an OEM PS system. The factory PS was installed when I bought my 76 and there's been a huge amount of slop, even after fully adjusting the gearbox screw. Below is a link to a video of my son rocking the steering wheel back and forth.



Can I fix this by just rebuilding the existing PS gearbox or am I better off going after a 60/62 PS conversion? Just trying to be smart with my funds here.
 
More likely to be improved by replacing all your rod ends (the tie rod ends look the worst) and rebuilding the center arm (the pivot that connects drag link to relay rod).

Yes FJ60/62 would be an overall improvement but it is a lot more time and money that what I described above.
That said, I once had "factory" style power steering, and now have FJ60 power steering, but I was more motivated by running big tires with front locker and beadlock low tire pressure.
 
My 76 was just as sloppy, so much that it felt dangerous to drive. Slowly acquired parts for the FJ60 PS conversion, installed it a few years ago and also replaced the original tie rod ends. No more slop! Best upgrade I've done on the 40 to date. So much more enjoyable to drive now.
 
I'm working through a lot of the same issues, vague steering and wobbles.

But holy #@$(!!!, that steering column is moving 180 degrees with minimal movement of the wheels???

I see a bunch of slop in center thingy, forget it's name, with the idler, on the spindle mounted to the frame.... A lot of movement there...

Probably not enough for 180 degrees, but from a video, it's hard to tell. Grab s*** and shake it. Turn the wheel more, try and fight it holding a tire while he turns the wheel. Jack it up and try and move the tires up and down, in and out, etc.

My wheel bearing were loose also, making it just wobble like mad. Adding caster shims really helped, but like a dampener seem like more of a cover up for a problem with something worn or loose. Found my steering box was also loose and have adjusted but not tested it yet (doing rewiring, should just stick to fixing one thing, but, well, you know....)
 
also check leaf springs and bushings for vague steering and wander
 
I've addressed the new TREs and center arm and I'm seeing no movement of the pitman after a massive amount of turning the wheel. Can I rebuild the power steering box to fix the slob?
 
76 it’s probably a minitruck box in place of the old manual box. I’ve got that setup and recently rebuilt the box, I ordered the kit from Amayama and IIRC it was like $70. You can find a kit from Gates through Rockauto but it doesn’t have all the Teflon rings for a complete rebuild. The other option is to send it to Redhead Gears, they do great work but it’s not cheap.

Mine was leaking before the rebuild, I’d say it tightened up some after the rebuild but it’s never going to be tight with the center arm and pitman arm setup. I don’t run big tires so I went minitruck vs FJ60 or FJ80 with my PS conversion.
 
I've addressed the new TREs and center arm and I'm seeing no movement of the pitman after a massive amount of turning the wheel. Can I rebuild the power steering box to fix the slob?
Have you checked the rag joint at the input to the steering gear? If worn they can introduce a lot of slop
 
Leaf spring & shackle bushings at shackle end, replace and tighten shackle properly, Rebuild box is good but I have found that the slop is usually due to worn gears in the box that adjustment may not cure. IMO it looks to be in the box.
 
Leaf spring & shackle bushings at shackle end, replace and tighten shackle properly, Rebuild box is good but I have found that the slop is usually due to worn gears in the box that adjustment may not cure. IMO it looks to be in the box.
Agree with this. It doesn’t cost you a penny to tear down your box to see what you have. In my experience the box was fine, no visible signs of wear to the worm gear or cross shaft. Don’t lose any of the 44 ball bearings, they want to go everywhere as it comes apart.
 
Here is the best thread I found on rebuilding one of these boxes

 
This is definitely an OEM PS setup with the riveted mount to the frame. Are there replacement parts for the rag joint and the internal parts of the steering box?
 
This is definitely an OEM PS setup with the riveted mount to the frame. Are there replacement parts for the rag joint and the internal parts of the steering box?


how about some pics?
OEM was not available in 1976
not saying it couldn't have been added by a PO
 
Here you go. The first is more recent
Screenshot_20231013-214725_Photos.jpg
Screenshot_20231013-213937_Photos.jpg
 
That rag joint is waaay past due for a replacement. I'd start there.

That looks like a factory PS mount goober-welded to your frame. Can you get some closer pictures of the mount? If that is the case I would consider it a safety concern.
 
Woah, I definitely would not drive that. Hit Georg up at Cruiser Brothers for a proper pedestal for that mini-truck box. As has been stated ‘76 did not have power steering and the pedestal was riveted to the frame. Georg makes a pedestal that uses the rivet holes to mount the pedestal.

Edit: The original pedestal has an incorrect mounting angle for the mini-truck box, Georg’s pedestal solves that problem so you coupling at the rag joint lines up correctly.

Rag joint needs to be replaced sure. I can’t tell from your pics but if the Mini-truck pitman arm is used its shorter than the original manual box arm… which means more steering input to throw the drag link to move the wheels. The original pitman arm fits the mini-truck box. Lastly I’d get the rebuild kit for the drag link as well.

Here is a pic of my pedestal from my recent box rebuild.

IMG_1858.jpeg
 
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Woah, I definitely would not drive that. Hit Georg up at Cruiser Brothers for a proper pedestal for that mini-truck box. As has been stated ‘76 did not have power steering and the pedestal was riveted to the frame. Georg makes a pedestal that uses the rivet holes to mount the pedestal.

Edit: The original pedestal has an incorrect mounting angle for the mini-truck box, Georg’s pedestal solves that problem so you coupling at the rag joint lines up correctly.

Rag joint needs to be replaced sure. I can’t tell from your pics but if the Mini-truck pitman arm is used its shorter than the original manual box arm… which means more steering input to throw the drag link to move the wheels. The original pitman arm fits the mini-truck box. Lastly I’d get the rebuild kit for the drag link as well.

Here is a pic of my pedestal from my recent box rebuild.

View attachment 3456238
Hey did you see those pics I just posted above from this morning with everything cleaned up? I was under the impression this was an OEM PS system either from the factory or retrofitted afterwards. All of the rivets match too.
 
Hey did you see those pics I just posted above from this morning with everything cleaned up? I was under the impression this was an OEM PS system either from the factory or retrofitted afterwards. All of the rivets match too.
‘76 did not come with PS, that’s probably a mini-truck box on the original pedestal which may be part of your slop problem. Again the mounting angle for a minitruck is different than the original manual box.

I don’t have experience with the later year models with factory PS, so I can’t tell you if a late model JF40 box will mount to an earlier pedestal. The most common conversion was to use and early 80’s mini-truck box due to cost and availability.

How about a pic of the pump and mount, that may help paint the picture of what was done. 76 blocks don’t have the mounting taps for the factory PS pump hardware.
 

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