Builds 1975 FJ45-Running Rebuild (1 Viewer)

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Made more progress today, went out and bought a new shop press as I needed to sort out my driveshafts. Changed the rear flandge on the rear driveshaft so it will match the 70 series diff I put in.

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I ended up getting the rear DS shortened down in Christchurch, but was able to pick up rear DS from an auto 60 series which was the right length for the front.

Been trying to find PS parts before my springs turn up, made up a uni I needed from two steering column shafts I hand. Ordered a pair of f250 shock towers so I don't have to mess around with the original ones.

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Picked up another 60 PS box today, and this one turns which is good. Got the steel plate to reinforce the chassis but not able to track down any 12mm pipe for the crush inserts. What size pipe have people used or what method do you use to get them in there?

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Hopefully my Springs should turn up next week and I can get them in.
 
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Decided this morning get to work on mounting the PS box so I could welderly it all up before my Springs turn up. So reattached the old Springs and put weight on the diff so I could see if things were going to line up.

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Drilled holes in the chassis before starting to make the reinforcing plates up, used 6mm steel which should be thick enough. Everything lined up well and used a spare drag link and tie rod I have for my 70.

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Shortened the front plate so it would miss the shock towers (gestimate). The back plate is only to shape at the moment, still have to drill holes and put in crush pipes.

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My tig welding is not stacked coins but it's clean and it won't be going anywhere in a hurry. Still got to weld underneath buthe i am tempted to flip the chassis on its side before the new suspension goes on.

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Still got lots of welding to do but I am happy with my progress. Tomorrow after work going to go to the steel shop and try and find some pipe the right size and some longer bolts if I have time.

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Last day off today, back to work in the morning.
 
Mate I'm not sure you'll need crush tubes if you're using 6mm plate each side?
 
Got the steel plate to reinforce the chassis but not able to track down any 12mm pipe for the crush inserts. What size pipe have people used or what method do you use to get them in there?

Its easier to tack them on before you put the first plate on, on the other side you can either cut them flush with the other chassis rail before the second plate goes on or bring them through the plate and cut them, I did mine with light tube like the first pics they are only there to take up any flex in the chassis rail (not my pics just some sample ones)



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Mate I'm not sure you'll need crush tubes if you're using 6mm plate each side?

Cert book says I need crush pipe as I am bolting through the chassis. It even says the rubes have to be the same thickness as the chassis steel (4mm) but may use 2-3mm wall as I think it's a bit thick
 
Finished making up the inside plate after work, all bolts up well. Started to clean up the inside for welding. Ordered some pipe online 12mm ID with 3mm wall which should be strong enough, it's a pain because all of the steel shops in Hawkes Bay are shut till the 16th.

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Going to get a 18mm drill bit tomorrow and finish drilling the holes for the pipe, think I will get everything lined up without the pipe. Then weld the inside plate as I want to flip the chassis to weld underneath. Will weld the pipes in later as welding they won't be any trouble.
 
Got a big 18mm drill bit after work, and finished off the back plate before drilling through the front plate and chassis.

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Started using the Tig to weld on the back plate but must of had a bit of s*** in a few places so decidedd to get the stick welder out. Top weld turned out much better so going to finish the rest of the back off tomorrow with it then probably go over the front again.

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Flipped the chassis after work, so more welding, had to build it up a bit to fill the gap between my plate and the chassis rail.

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I am getting better at verticle stick welding and picking the right heat/rod combo.

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Will finish the welding in the morning and then flip the chassis back over. Might start looking at my engine mounts, again need to make a few changes to make the power steering pump fit again.
 
Crush pipes turned up as well as the f250 shock towers turned up so more work on the front end. Pipes went in as expected and I welded both sides before grinding flat.

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F250 shock towers work well and give lots of clearance, will have to cut through guards a bit but that's not too bad. What have people done so for the shock bolt/bush? Got a 12mm ID bush or used the standard bush and a bigger bolt?

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Front end of the chassis is done apart from suspension which I am still waiting for. Was meant to be shipped before christmas but still not arrived. Gave it another lick of paint.

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Next will be suspension before dropping the engine back in, have been able to find a set of factory hj47 2H engine mount with PS bracket and pump. Should turn up in the next week, I am hoping that I don't have to move my crossmember and I moUnited the engine in the right place with the mounts I made.

Hopefully not long till I get the tub back on, I am am not planning to paint till after cert, bit tight on cash at the momemt and I want the cert guy to see the tub. Mainly so I can get required repairso done without ruining a good paint job.
 
Made more progress this week and I have a mate coming to help this weekend so there should be some big changes.

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Suspension turned up, but was missing front u bolts which pissed me off. Having to use some old ones tI'll I can get my hands on some new ones.

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Got a score from OZ, factory 2h hj47 engine mounts with the powers steering bracket and pump. Will make things easier going through cert and everything should fit now.

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Cleaned them up and painted the mount using some left over black engine paint. Hopefully engine might be back in tomorrow depending on when the springs are in.


Back suspension is just about in, hand a few issues with bump stops and u bolt alligament but all sorted. Used 70 series u bolt plates to bring the bottom of the shoaks in, so the handbreak cable won't rub.

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Hopefully will make good progress this weekend and will post some more updates.
 
Nice score on the PS pump and bracket. That is the one I was looking for but could not locate.
 
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nice score on the mounts and p/s bits. You may want to reclock your rear bearing retainer. in its current posisition the seal will not have proper oil flow and fail prematurely. if you have an fsm it shows you the proper orientation but basically the speed sensor should be at 7 oclock. there is also and cast timing mark on the retainer that corresponds to a mark on the case.
 
nice score on the mounts and p/s bits. You may want to reclock your rear bearing retainer. in its current posisition the seal will not have proper oil flow and fail prematurely. if you have an fsm it shows you the proper orientation but basically the speed sensor should be at 7 oclock. there is also and cast timing mark on the retainer that corresponds to a mark on the case.

Thanks will get onto it in the morning.
 
Got all of my suspension in this morning apart from the front shocks, had to use some old u bolts for the momemt until I get some new front ones.

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A mate Luke came around after lunch to give me a hand with the engine. Fitted the new mounts, they wentold in with a bit of a push.

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Might get the tub back on in the morning after a bit of work on a few other areas. got some 15x10 inch white spokes to replace my current rims for cert.
 
Did some wiring and plumping around the gearbox and t-case before placing the tub back on. The front body bolts snapped when I originally took the body off, now the bit left is stuck so will have to look at that soon

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Going to get my tub floor and and few other rusted spots fixed, will take it to a panel guy over in napier. Going to get a quote for paint while at it. Will start to strip the tub this week.

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Had a bit of a scare this afternoon, a fire in front of our place. Burnt grass, our fence a and two trees, a close call.
 
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Slowly making more progress, tub has been off again so I could chop out the old front bolt bolts. Decided to give it a 20mm body lift to clear the bellhouseing.

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Currently changing the exhaust mounts to the 70 series block type astuff well as making a driveshaft safety loop as requires for cert.

Modified the front radiator surround to move it forward 10mm, got a new radiator coming so that will need to have the bottom outlet changed.

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Tried to sort the handbrake using a LWB 70 cable connected to the original one but cannot get enough pull on the under dash lever to engage the shoes. any ideas?

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Fitted tough dog return to center steering damper so just got to run the ps lines and that should be done.
 
somebody always notices when shackles are around the wrong way, the rear ones should have the anti inversion tabs the other way around so the springs cant invert, for your handbrake I don't know anyone that has successfully hooked up a rear drum handbrake to an under dash hockey stick you might be better trying to stick a 40 or 70 series floor mounted lever to get better pull and leverage on the handbrake, your trucks looking good I'm envious :)
 

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