Builds 1975 FJ45-Running Rebuild

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Been a busy week but made good progress, went to pick up a 60 with a mate which he got his hands on for his 45 well side. I talked him and his dad into going 12ht rather than v8 ;), you guys know my preference. Picked it up in Te Puke but only made it to Rotorua (35mins) before deciding it was too heavy for my 70 to pull it over the hills back to Hawkes Bay. So I rang a uni mate working in Rotorua (another 12ht 45 owner) and we left it in his driveway, then got it transported back to HB.

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Got the engine back together, and fired it tonight which was good. Took a while to get diesel to the injectors but fired up well with a bit of black smoke.

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Still got a few things to paint like the starter & alternator but just about done with the engine. Unsure if i will paint the crossover pipes as i kind of likd them as is. Replaced the t-case output seals too and got to reassemble the vacuume shifter tomorrow. So might pull the engine on Sunday so I can start the front half of the chassis/front end.

Got a video of the motor running, but might have to workout how to upload to here. Got my uni results tonight too, I got my BForSc (hons) which I am really happy about.
 
very nice man. makes me anxious to run mine up
 
Rebuilt a pto box I picked up a few months ago for $35. All the gears were good but the bearings were stuffed.



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Don't think the t case this pto came off was very healthy cleaned quite a bit of metal out of the bottom, but after the rebuild it's mint again. Done a few of these so only took 45mins.

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When draining my oil bucket I found one of the thrust washers? or the ware plates from the t case in the bottom..... so had to open the case back up again. Did not take too long but I did tap both breathers while I was back in and attach 1/4 inch barb fitting tl prevent water ingress.

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May try and pull the engine tomorrow so I can start work on the front end.
 
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Engine is out, really easy with the new crane.

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Stripped, wire wheeled and painted the middle part of the chassis up to the rear front spring hangers, will sort out power steering before painting the rest.

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Adding some reinforcing to my crossmember, don't think it will be moving anytime soon.

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Found this writing under the PO's previous chassis undercoat. looks like fj45 with a number followed by a = then Japanese letters? original? factory? sorry the image is upside down.

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Will be setting up my PS in the next few days, maim thing that is holding me back at the moment is my suspension, hopefully should turn up in the next week or two.
 
doesnt look like factory, unless factory staff just scribbling on nearest surface..? anything official on the chassis would be stamped there, not written in pen
 
Trying to sort out my power steering anybody done a 60 conversion and can have a look at my box placement, as
different threads have different placements.

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Was struggling to make the 55 or lower 60 universals work around the stock shock mount so nabed a upper uni off
the 60 column and it looks to work, will have to put my tub back on and find out.

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I used the slip joint from the 60 column worked great. you have the part that was in the column above the slip joint in your picture that went to the tilt. use the part that went to the box from the column and a dd coupler
 
i think i had my 60 box about an inch back from where yours is now on my 1st 45...

see this thread, might help
 
Steering slip shaft use FJ60/62 steering shaft
The input shaft on a 60 steering box is 17.5mm x 36 splines. a 11/16 - 36 u-joint (.001 smaller) will fit Borgeson Universal Joint.
3/4"-DD X 11/16"-36 Spline Part # 014925
Steering U-Joint, Vibration Damper Style, Steel, Natural, PN 034925
Column Bearing – 189431 Northern tool $5 for a 2pack (goes in tube of column to keep it from banging around)
 
Trying to sort out my power steering anybody done a 60 conversion and can have a look at my box placement, as
different threads have different placements.

one thing you want to watch with the steering box placement is how low down the pitman arm will hang depending on what front springs you have the pitman arm can fowl on the spring on compression, a 70 or 80 series pitman arm is a common swap they have a lesser drop than a 60 series arm. 60 and 70 pitman arms have the larger TRE tapered hole and 80 series is the smaller TRE tapered hole, good progress mate keep it up :)
 
Thanks for the help guys, PS is on hold for a week or two as I was jumping ahead a bit. still waiting for my new Springs, aparantly will be around the 20th but knowing shipping companies they won't turn up till the new year now.

Stripped the rest of the front of my chassis, pulled the diff then finished cleaning up the chassis before painting. Will have to grind paint in a few places for PS and exhaust mounts but I am happy it's donever now.

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Stripped my front to diff, wire wheeled and painted. Put in a 70 series front diff head to replace the original, the head is not in as good a condition as I though but it's only the front so not too worried.

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Staried replacing the rear break shoes and slaves but the axel seals looked a bit worn so ordered parts and will have to wait a few days before the rear diff is done.

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Parts turned up for my 60 series hubs, a full rebuild planned, all seals, bearings, new disks, pads and caliper seals.


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Anybody know which areas to grind to make 70 series cv's fit? Got a 70 front diff casing somewhere which I can dig out to measure but it would be good if someone could point me in the right direction.

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Might get my chassis done by Christmas, but looking unlikely.
 
Tom you will need to grind the bottom inside lip to match the same area on the 70 axle housing.
 
Taken a week and a half break from working on my truck, was geating a bit full on with work in the build up to Christmas. Took apart a 70 series steering column today which should work but still waiting for my suspension.

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Will be getting into in over Christmas & New year when I get 11 days off which will be good.
 
I'm glad you're running the 70 series intermediate steering shaft. It's how generally they do it over here. Plus it's collapsible. We also use a 55 series steering column as it bolts into the cab but retains the spline that matches the 70 series collapsible shaft. Are you running a 70 series rear axle to match the front? Then the track would be a same, as well as the flanges, the complete braking system..

Nice Honda. I bought my old man a '69 750 Four. Maybe it was a '73. It was a long time ago. It hasn't moved.
 
Started to make progress again after Christmas, started by rebuilding my calipers, done a few sets nowith so nothing too hard. came apart easily and they got a clean and paint which was a first for my caliper rebuilds.

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The seals turned up for the rear diff so cracked into those, old seals must of been stuffed as the bearings looked like they were running on diff oil. Bearings looked good so reused them but they did get repacked after cleaning out all the old oil. Finished by installing the new break componants.

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Changed the pinion flandge and seals while I was at it, a tie down worked well as hand break cable. I was surprised that the LSD is still working in the 70 diff which is a bonus, might get lockers at some point but not get.

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Next onto hubs, I had two sets, one off a 60 and one of a pzj70 both which cost nothing. After working out that the pz ones won't fit and the 60 knuckles right hand side callipers bolt holds were fxxxed (way beyond helicoil) I was in a bit off a mess. I called a mate down in chch and he is going to send me up another bare knuckle for the left side, will rebuild it with my bits. But I did get the right hand side done, lots of work cleaning and painting all the bits. Got to do the freewheeling hub but most of that side is done, hope not to have to do anything to it again for a while.

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Might have a look at my PS box tomorrow as I think it's seased, but do have seal rebuild kit for it. Also might have another look at my engine mounts, need to make sure the welds a good enough so might take them in to get looked at.
 
Finished my front diff build for the moment, just missing a cv for the passengers side. 70 series tie rod works well justwaiting on Springs now.

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Opened up my PS box top and found its quite stuffed. Was full of water what has caused the roller bearings to sieze, tried to get them out and they won't move. Not that much of a loss as I payed about $35 for it, got my hands on another one which I know works.
 

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