1975 FJ40 Build in the FL Panhandle

[Grayscale]

I haven’t decided yet…did you go the fix route? How’d that go?

I'm using an aftermarket lamp, with OEM lens up front driver. The original wire was kind fried looking, throughout, so, I took it back to the thermal insulator under the bulb. Simply making a drop of solder kinda round on a wire, then upsetting it with a hammer, so that it can't fall thru the hole. I employed some shrink tube for insulation. I'm probably going to need pictures to describe it... Maybe that old Aussie rear license tag lamp set of mine needs updated wire...?

 

[Grayscale]

wait.. I just discovered that I need more than wire, and it was the original factory lamp housing. I have a front-combo-turn that needs work, and I have one still in the box, from OEM source. I need the rubber backing on two out of three of mine... Maybe this will work... Obviously, messing around with traffic lamps, this isn't recommended for safety but, I'm not going to trash perfectly good original parts. I'm going to check it out now at the auto store.

 

[Grayscale]

The ancient lamps had only a center insulator on the upper socket (front parking light)? The others appear to have wires touching the chassis?

The new OEM lamps have no insulator on the back of all three sockets, maybe to keep it cool? Maybe I lost them fromt the originals when I opened this up before?

Totally seized plastic threads on two of the lens screws. I just compromised a new lamp to satisfy my curiosity. Teflon tape will get them back on the road if the thread strips when torqued down.

And, of course there is a staple like metal clip binding the wires together in the new lamp base so, don't load any ice or mud on the wire in the front fenders and on the electrical leads, right?

 

[Grayscale]

Now, this actually fits as a replacement, from some factory, not DIY. Just use the wire insulator and spring, don't use the metal chassis. The wire is too short.

Fixing the Toyota insulator with a file. I'm making things flat on the back so I can drill a 1/16" hole. Then I file the front of the socket solder so that it is not oxidized.

Holding the propane torch so solder won't fall into the jets, I make a blob on an electrical lead after I thread it thru the hole. Then I join my blob of solder to Toyota's blob with care not to heat any more than is necessary for joining. I accidentally fractured this insulator, I'm kinda naive here, and I will not put this one in service, oops.

The second one was a clean success. Below is after I filed it to conform to the bottom of a bulb. Then I use a layer of shrink wrap, but, I'm not sure it is necessary.

After I initially figured out how to perform this operation, it made me realize that I can delete the connectors going to the rear comb. lamps, and I can run my leads from each socket to the engine bay, uninterrupted / split / connected with connectors. I can't wait to clean up what I built a few years ago going to the rear bumper.

I failed to show you where I place the chassis ground wire lead, under the lower lamp reflector screw. However, I'm sloppy, and I need one more Dorman socket before I seal this one up. I'd be better off doing the classifieds for some forgotten insulators that I can make soldering mistakes with. The Dorman springs are lighter, so they are less likely to cause a short if the insulator breaks, but, they will hold the contacts with less pressure.

 

[Greek Cruiserhead]

Doing some fender maintenance...have some wires and accessories to clean up. I'm going to see if this aftermarket fender will fit...I don't have much hope from what I've read on other builds here on Mud...
View attachment 3174860
View attachment 3174858

It seems that these are the same Made in Taiwan fenders that one can find at CCOT. Got them both (L+R) for my resto 15 years ago. The people at the body section (at a Toyota dealeship in Germany) who worked on them did not report any fitting or quality issue. I am happy with them since.

 

[sggoat]

Now, this actually fits as a replacement, from some factory, not DIY. Just use the wire insulator and spring, don't use the metal chassis. The wire is too short.

View attachment 3175474

Fixing the Toyota insulator with a file. I'm making things flat on the back so I can drill a 1/16" hole. Then I file the front of the socket solder so that it is not oxidized.

View attachment 3175473

Holding the propane torch so solder won't fall into the jets, I make a blob on an electrical lead after I thread it thru the hole. Then I join my blob of solder to Toyota's blob with care not to heat any more than is necessary for joining. I accidentally fractured this insulator, I'm kinda naive here, and I will not put this one in service, oops.

View attachment 3175471


View attachment 3175472

The second one was a clean success. Below is after I filed it to conform to the bottom of a bulb. Then I use a layer of shrink wrap, but, I'm not sure it is necessary.

View attachment 3175470

After I initially figured out how to perform this operation, it made me realize that I can delete the connectors going to the rear comb. lamps, and I can run my leads from each socket to the engine bay, uninterrupted / split / connected with connectors. I can't wait to clean up what I built a few years ago going to the rear bumper.

I failed to show you where I place the chassis ground wire lead, under the lower lamp reflector screw. However, I'm sloppy, and I need one more Dorman socket before I seal this one up. I'd be better off doing the classifieds for some forgotten insulators that I can make soldering mistakes with. The Dorman springs are lighter, so they are less likely to cause a short if the insulator breaks, but, they will hold the contacts with less pressure.

seems there is always someone who may be having issues with turn sigs, brake/parking lights--remember the old Admonition from Claudia--"it's a ground issue"--and she is correct--80+% of failed lights/hazards/turn sigs/etc are the result of failed ground connections--Long ago I took her admonition to heart--every bulb on the cruiser has it's own individual soldered ground connection-those are wired/soldered to a common ground wire leading to a solid frame ground terminal block-(each side of the frame)-I did this 15 years ago-I have had NO lighting issues since--it is worth the effort! --please note, I did this before I found out the wiring color codes--so the green ground wire has the wrong color--it should have been white w/black stripe(this ground wire color is quite universal for all L/Cs)

 

[Grayscale]

In the back, I have a series of individually grounded wires that uses the side screw of the side rear marker lamps, in the tub that is used a kind of junction block between the metal chassis of the lamps in the back. Then the rear ground subharness runs parallel to the factory harness, and on to the firewall, passenger side. In the front, I use the metal perch that holds the coil on the fender as a junction block for ground, which also goes to the firewall. Driver's side firewall has an extra ground for the driver's side lamps.

When you do the H4 headlight circuit upgrade, they instruct you to make the shortest run back to the battery negative, with slightly heavier gauge wire. Copper wire vs the steel frame as conductor. In theory, if you add resistance to the positive side of the circuit's 'load' (lamp to battery +) it will require more from the battery, alternator. However, if you have more resistance to the ground side of the load, you get a 'voltage drop' and the lamp will glow dimmer, than if the issue was on the other side of the intended circuit's 'load.' Use a jumper wire from the battery negative post , do the lamps glow brighter when you provide a good ground?

Why do some of the OEM lamps have dedicated ground wiring, and some of them don't? The early round OEM new just front blinker lamps come with a chassis ground wire? I rubbed some dielectric grease on the two screws for the rear comb. lamps and tied in with a ring terminal under a lockwasher, iirc, so four extra ground paths for these two rear lamps on my rig. All I care about is never having brake light failure. I already got stopped by someone (friendly person) on the highway informing me about a burned-out brake light bulb, so my record isn't spiffy like I wish it were.

 

[FloridaPhillip]

It seems that these are the same Made in Taiwan fenders that one can find at CCOT. Got them both (L+R) for my resto 15 years ago. The people at the body section (at a Toyota dealeship in Germany) who worked on them did not report any fitting or quality issue. Have them since without any problem.

Good to know! I’m going to sandblast my current fenders and see how bad the rust is. Nice knowing I have a legitimate backup plan if the rust is not repairable

 

[FloridaPhillip]

Now, this actually fits as a replacement, from some factory, not DIY. Just use the wire insulator and spring, don't use the metal chassis. The wire is too short.

View attachment 3175474

Fixing the Toyota insulator with a file. I'm making things flat on the back so I can drill a 1/16" hole. Then I file the front of the socket solder so that it is not oxidized.

View attachment 3175473

Holding the propane torch so solder won't fall into the jets, I make a blob on an electrical lead after I thread it thru the hole. Then I join my blob of solder to Toyota's blob with care not to heat any more than is necessary for joining. I accidentally fractured this insulator, I'm kinda naive here, and I will not put this one in service, oops.

View attachment 3175471


View attachment 3175472

The second one was a clean success. Below is after I filed it to conform to the bottom of a bulb. Then I use a layer of shrink wrap, but, I'm not sure it is necessary.

View attachment 3175470

After I initially figured out how to perform this operation, it made me realize that I can delete the connectors going to the rear comb. lamps, and I can run my leads from each socket to the engine bay, uninterrupted / split / connected with connectors. I can't wait to clean up what I built a few years ago going to the rear bumper.

I failed to show you where I place the chassis ground wire lead, under the lower lamp reflector screw. However, I'm sloppy, and I need one more Dorman socket before I seal this one up. I'd be better off doing the classifieds for some forgotten insulators that I can make soldering mistakes with. The Dorman springs are lighter, so they are less likely to cause a short if the insulator breaks, but, they will hold the contacts with less pressure.

Nice run down on the process!

 

[Greek Cruiserhead]

Good to know! I’m going to sandblast my current fenders and see how bad the rust is. Nice knowing I have a legitimate backup plan if the rust is not repairable

All the way Philipp!
My brother gave me his pair of CCOT (Taiwanese) fenders he got in storage (since 2004) to use them in my future BJ45 PickUp resto...

 

[alabamatacomaguy]

Recently city racer was selling Toyota oem fenders on his site also if you go the replacement route. He’s gone for thanksgiving it says so I can’t check but worth a look to see if he still has when he comes back.

 

[FloridaPhillip]

I am going to repair my original fenders. No matter what I do, I cannot get this Taiwan fender to line up. I ended up minimizing the gaps in the front and I just won’t worry about the back for now. It will do as a placeholder until I do rust repair.
The turn signal doesn’t blink also, I’m guessing it’s a ground issue.

 

[FloridaPhillip]

The City Racer headlight do work and look great!

 

[FloridaPhillip]

I had some coughing and burping on start-up. Had a backfire from the carb. Found some old mud threads by @FJ40Jim that pointed towards a lean condition. I made sure the jet was working in the carb and checked the filter. It’s probably time to go thru all that and replace lines as required.

List of things to work on:
-left front turn signal not blinking
-fuel system. Still thinking about that Sniper
-oil? in the air filter. Not liking some of the stuff I read on that
-rust removal on fenders (one off, one on)
-rear sill replacement: how much surrounding body panels do I have to take off?
-rust on both rear quarters
- @wngrog paint refresh

 

[FloridaPhillip]

I've had some rough idling issues recently. Full symptoms:
- white smoke at start-up
- rough idle
- starts to die when gas is applied
- seems to run better when choke is left 1/3 open
- black goop in the carb (see photo #1)

Then, I found a crack in the spacer between carb and manifold. Any thoughts on why that would happen? Does this contribute to bad idling?

 

[charliemeyer007]

Vacuum leaks have a major effect at idle that at WOT. Looks like cast aluminium. I suspect that the surfaces are not parallel and the clamping action of the bolts produced a stress fracture.

Wow that is a dirty carb inside. Where does your PCV system dump into the engine? How much blow by does your engine have? Dry/Wet compreesion #'s are?

 

[FloridaPhillip]

Vacuum leaks have a major effect at idle that at WOT. Looks like cast aluminium. I suspect that the surfaces are not parallel and the clamping action of the bolts produced a stress fracture.

Wow that is a dirty carb inside. Where does your PCV system dump into the engine? How much blow by does your engine have? Dry/Wet compreesion #'s are?

Hey Charlie thanks for the response. I haven't done compression numbers...maybe its time to get the tools to do that.
PCV system dumps in the normal place, I believe:

 

[charliemeyer007]

Maybe thee PCV valve is stuck open letting lots extra oil vapor into the carb.

I bought a compression tester off Amoron for $20 fits most stuff and works good.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SKSAB8U

Use Marvel's Mystery Oil for the wet test. Be nice if it sat overnight. 10-15 cc is enough per jug. I use a big syringe to inject it and crank the engine over a few time to distribute it so it can work on the rings.

 

[Grayscale]

The power valve in the carb need a source of vacuum. The pictured hose, above, goes from the airhorn (top of carb for Power Valve) to the Throttle Positioner. It need manifold vacuum, or it will run rich, iirc

Get a 2F-type carb insulator from a Mud vendor.

 

[FloridaPhillip]

The power valve in the carb need a source of vacuum. The pictured hose, above, goes from the airhorn (top of carb for Power Valve) to the Throttle Positioner. It need manifold vacuum, or it will run rich, iirc

Get a 2F-type carb insulator from a Mud vendor.

I want to make sure I'm tracking what you are saying. The hose with the PCV valve traces back to the hose in the manifold. I circled both ends in the screenshots below. Is this setup incorrect?