1975 FJ40 Build in the FL Panhandle (1 Viewer)

[FloridaPhillip]

I want to make sure I'm tracking what you are saying. The hose with the PCV valve traces back to the hose in the manifold. I circled both ends in the screenshots below. Is this setup incorrect?
View attachment 3807958View attachment 3807959

Or are you talking about this hose:

 

[Grayscale]

Or are you talking about this hose:
View attachment 3807975

Yes. The one on the top needs manifold vacuum. Every carb has a power valve, smog or desmog; the '75-USA Aisan's power valve needs external manifold vacuum, or it has the wrong air fuel ratio.

 

[FloridaPhillip]

Yes. The one on the top needs manifold vacuum. Every carb has a power valve, smog or desmog; the '75-USA Aisan's power valve needs external manifold vacuum, or it has the wrong air fuel ratio.

Ok, great. Just found this @FJ40Jim post that lays some of this out for a 1975:

75 2F Desmog ?

I have desmoged my75 2F and have a couple of questions. -Where should I hook up the TP Diaphram port to? -At the TVSV on the thermostat housing. There are 2 ports I used the inner one (to AAP) should I plug the outer one? -Where should I pull the Vacuum line to for the Distributor? Since...

forum.ih8mud.com

It has been hooked up this way (PV to TP) from the day I got it, interestingly.

 

[FloridaPhillip]

I currently have one vacuum line from manifold leading to the AAP housing on the carb. The Power Valve (PV) has a hose to the choke breaker (CB)….doing nothing! I have nothing connected to either port on the TVSV.

Based on reading @FJ40Jim ’s knowledge from this thread (75 2F Desmog), I need manifold vacuum to 1) TVSV, 2) choke breaker, and 3) power valve. TVSV then connects to AAP.


I think I need a 3-way manifold fitting like this thread outlines to replace the current one port (line going to AAP currently) that is in the manifold. Looks like @ToyotaMatt has new ones and @65swb45 has used…

Or are there other ports on the manifold I should use? Appreciate any advice.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

I currently have one vacuum line from manifold leading to the AAP housing on the carb. The Power Valve (PV) has a hose to the choke breaker (CB)….doing nothing! I have nothing connected to either port on the TVSV.

Based on reading @FJ40Jim ’s knowledge from this thread (75 2F Desmog), I need manifold vacuum to 1) TVSV, 2) choke breaker, and 3) power valve. TVSV then connects to AAP.


I think I need a 3-way manifold fitting like this thread outlines to replace the current one port (line going to AAP currently) that is in the manifold. Looks like @ToyotaMatt has new ones and @65swb45 has used…

Or are there other ports on the manifold I should use? Appreciate any advice.

Hi Phillip ,

Have you addressed or further evaluated the vertical crack in your 2 stand alone ( non-OEM-toyota ) spacers set up under the cast iron carb. base / above the aluminum intake manifold ?

Visually to me these look like some sort of aluminum shop-made or home-brew type of
spacer blocks set up that someone 1st made 1 of them , then realized that the height difference between the carburetor airhorn and the air cleaner, metal housing that goes over the stud out of the top of your carburetor was not was not tall enough to meet as in the carburetor wasn’t high enough so they created a second spacer and stacked it on top of the first one to achieve the right height for the airhorn of the carbureted and they look aluminum as in metal in nature, but they could’ve been it could be painted of some sort of of course, silver too ?

I would simply say this the way they are fixed in place with some sort of like semi translucent generic Permax sealant and not like any type of like fiber gasket material media, as well as the fact that there looks like there’s some sort of crack in the vertically on the top one, the permatex type sealer and the visual crack that’s a smoking gun of like major vacuum leaks That’s a starting point here because you’re not going to get any type of results that are notable or positively benefit you from a like a you know you you complete the step to do the De-smog and then you you evaluate your benefit factor make sure it’s hooked up right then you go into the next step-by-step as you’re trying to do with a D- smog, but having this this this main area of vacuum leak it’s an Achilles heel because its currently setting you up for failure as is …

You can take the currently available non-USA 2F engine carburetor insulator heat shield and you could install it on your engine on your intake manifold in place of that set up. That’s on there now in the case of your 1975 2F you will have to take a metal type holesaw as in like a hacksaw blade fine tooth and you’ll have to notate the location. There’s there’s a few ports like vacuum fitting ports. The model 2F insulator does not these needed knockout holes.

So this is very simple you would measure five times and simply cut once making like a a paper template out of like tracing paper the stuff you could see through translation you could buy at Michael’s crafts or like JoAnn fabrics, for example and you see through it and you would like center it over your carburetor studs for example that’s easy enough to punch holes in it and then you simply take lead pencil and you would make your necessary knockout circles. Then you lay it over your insulator and you mark it with him you know like a white type of sharpie white paint pen what’s important is You must always remember. You need to run the drill with the fine tooth holesaw in reverse like backwards you can get away with one with jagged teeth like for Wood, but it’s better to use the one that’s for metal. If you have one for ceramic tile they work well too. You don’t have to because they have a diamond aggregate. You could run those in either direction but remember slow and steady is the key here and you start on one side, get it going and get the groove and curve and then flip it over and do it from the backside this way when it comes through the the heatshield material is sort of like a fireproof Kevlar type fiberglass if you will it’s kind of like a on boat engine, so you do it from the whole saw from both sides similar to wooded carpentry And that way then the heatshield clear all that the heat shield is bolted and secure down with 3M8 bolts they’re short ones M 8 x 1.25 and then they have to be like the distributor bolt. They have to be real short like no taller than 16 mm you’ll be able to use chew out of those three but I think for certain you either have to drill an extra hole to catch the third one you have or you simply don’t have the third one and the insulator wings the material that has the shielding on it the silver stuff on the bottom NASA space capsule reflector stuff they kind of float there’s nothing pushing on it so they could freely float in all reality they could get away with not being bolted down. You still have the centerpoint of the four carb studs. The insulator comes pre-factory install installed with gaskets on both sides or like their tan. I call this OEM Toyota gasket media CAMEL-FLAUGE

Once you’ve installed a factory, Twitter lead model 2F engine space/heat shield set up. I don’t think you’re gonna be completely out of the woods yet I think for certain based on what I see in your tech pictures your carburetor airhorn is still gonna be too short to meet up with the oval air cleaner. It’s just a gap so I would only find the link, but there’s a vendor that sells a I would call it simply a very, very well thought out custom part. It’s not a reproduction part. It’s a ring. It’s an adapter for this exact situation. It’s scenario that you have, and it just simply presses onto the lip of the top of the airhorn in the carburetor and then you use the OEM Toyota. O- ring on the top of it to made it to the bottom of the air cleaner housing itself, where the stud is your carb stud should be long enough to be still utilized here as well


See below my tech-pics

 

[Grayscale]

So, the Auxiliary Accelerator Pump provides enrichment during heavy acceleration, according to the manual. It probably means that by not having vacuum on it, you are causing the carburetor to run rich? The Power Valve, I believe functions similarly. These are important for the function of the carb, the Throttle Positioner / Choke Breaker is more about convenience for the driver during cold start-ups.

Without looking into some things, I can't remember about further manifold vac spots. I know that I have three vacuum barbs on a common British tapered pipe fitting, that came with '75 USA emissions. I also recall that there is a barb on the PCV intake fitting for fuel vapors. You can purchase vacuum Y-fittings and T-fittings to split a source. I think that Matt even has an OEM one made of metal for measuring manifold vacuum.

 

[FloridaPhillip]

Hi Phillip ,

Have you addressed or further evaluated the vertical crack in your 2 stand alone ( non-OEM-toyota ) spacers set up under the cast iron carb. base / above the aluminum intake manifold ?

Visually to me these look like some sort of aluminum shop-made or home-brew type of
spacer blocks set up that someone 1st made 1 of them , then realized that the height difference between the carburetor airhorn and the air cleaner, metal housing that goes over the stud out of the top of your carburetor was not was not tall enough to meet as in the carburetor wasn’t high enough so they created a second spacer and stacked it on top of the first one to achieve the right height for the airhorn of the carbureted and they look aluminum as in metal in nature, but they could’ve been it could be painted of some sort of of course, silver too ?

I would simply say this the way they are fixed in place with some sort of like semi translucent generic Permax sealant and not like any type of like fiber gasket material media, as well as the fact that there looks like there’s some sort of crack in the vertically on the top one, the permatex type sealer and the visual crack that’s a smoking gun of like major vacuum leaks That’s a starting point here because you’re not going to get any type of results that are notable or positively benefit you from a like a you know you you complete the step to do the De-smog and then you you evaluate your benefit factor make sure it’s hooked up right then you go into the next step-by-step as you’re trying to do with a D- smog, but having this this this main area of vacuum leak it’s an Achilles heel because its currently setting you up for failure as is …

You can take the currently available non-USA 2F engine carburetor insulator heat shield and you could install it on your engine on your intake manifold in place of that set up. That’s on there now in the case of your 1975 2F you will have to take a metal type holesaw as in like a hacksaw blade fine tooth and you’ll have to notate the location. There’s there’s a few ports like vacuum fitting ports. The model 2F insulator does not these needed knockout holes.

So this is very simple you would measure five times and simply cut once making like a a paper template out of like tracing paper the stuff you could see through translation you could buy at Michael’s crafts or like JoAnn fabrics, for example and you see through it and you would like center it over your carburetor studs for example that’s easy enough to punch holes in it and then you simply take lead pencil and you would make your necessary knockout circles. Then you lay it over your insulator and you mark it with him you know like a white type of sharpie white paint pen what’s important is You must always remember. You need to run the drill with the fine tooth holesaw in reverse like backwards you can get away with one with jagged teeth like for Wood, but it’s better to use the one that’s for metal. If you have one for ceramic tile they work well too. You don’t have to because they have a diamond aggregate. You could run those in either direction but remember slow and steady is the key here and you start on one side, get it going and get the groove and curve and then flip it over and do it from the backside this way when it comes through the the heatshield material is sort of like a fireproof Kevlar type fiberglass if you will it’s kind of like a on boat engine, so you do it from the whole saw from both sides similar to wooded carpentry And that way then the heatshield clear all that the heat shield is bolted and secure down with 3M8 bolts they’re short ones M 8 x 1.25 and then they have to be like the distributor bolt. They have to be real short like no taller than 16 mm you’ll be able to use chew out of those three but I think for certain you either have to drill an extra hole to catch the third one you have or you simply don’t have the third one and the insulator wings the material that has the shielding on it the silver stuff on the bottom NASA space capsule reflector stuff they kind of float there’s nothing pushing on it so they could freely float in all reality they could get away with not being bolted down. You still have the centerpoint of the four carb studs. The insulator comes pre-factory install installed with gaskets on both sides or like their tan. I call this OEM Toyota gasket media CAMEL-FLAUGE

Once you’ve installed a factory, Twitter lead model 2F engine space/heat shield set up. I don’t think you’re gonna be completely out of the woods yet I think for certain based on what I see in your tech pictures your carburetor airhorn is still gonna be too short to meet up with the oval air cleaner. It’s just a gap so I would only find the link, but there’s a vendor that sells a I would call it simply a very, very well thought out custom part. It’s not a reproduction part. It’s a ring. It’s an adapter for this exact situation. It’s scenario that you have, and it just simply presses onto the lip of the top of the airhorn in the carburetor and then you use the OEM Toyota. O- ring on the top of it to made it to the bottom of the air cleaner housing itself, where the stud is your carb stud should be long enough to be still utilized here as well


See below my tech-pics

Thank you for taking the time for this detailed post!

I have not dealt with the crack under the carb, yet. Part of the reason might be I'm afraid there is a notch on the carb side of the interface right where that crack is located on the spacers. You can see it in some of the pictures I posted earlier. And then I will not just be replacing the spacers...but potentially looking at a new carb as well!

What you laid out seems like something that I would be able to accomplish. Does the heat shield make that big of a difference for performance? If so, I might consider it more than just getting a spacer-kit that I've found online. I like that it would come with pre-installed gaskets, as well.

The ring that you mentioned for the airhorn-to-air cleaner spacing might be needed if I go a "spacer" route on the bottom to make up the difference.

Again, really appreciate the advice and the time you took to type it out.

 

[FloridaPhillip]

I’ve removed the carb (and the air cleaner assembly to get to those back nuts on the carb). The “gasket” is in terrible shape, stuck to both sides of the interface and flakes off.

Good news: the bottom of the carb is not boogered up!

The spacers are jammed tight on the studs. It’s going to require some work to get them off. I removed the 4 hex-head machine screws along the perimeter of the spacer, but those were just holding the spacers together I’m pretty sure. Will try and tackle that today.